Edmunds.com | Inside Line | Auto Observer Your Account | Help | Directory
You are here:
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
Sedans BMW 3-Series BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair
3989 messages, Last post on Oct 07, 2008 at 9:24 AM
You are in the BMW 3-Series Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
|
|
|---|---|
|
Replying to: rjorge3 (Nov 24, 2007 12:22 am) Welcome to the board! I've owned BMWs since 1983- 8 in all, and I perform a lot of the minor service and repairs myself. My wife drives a 2004 X3 while I currently run a 1995 318ti Club Sport; I'm the original owner. At 12 years, and 112,000 miles my ti has needed the following non-scheduled maintenance: O2 sensor(recall, replaced at a scheduled service) both fuel sending units(warranty, replaced at a scheduled service) alarm module(warranty, replaced at a scheduled service) 1 set of front brake pads(due to track use) 1 set pad/rotors front and rear 2 serpentine belts(replaced as a precaution) 2 idler pulleys 1 timing chain tensioner(replaced as a precaution) 3 sets of W or Z rated tires 1 battery(replaced at ten years, one month as a precaution) 1 brake light switch 1 thermostat 4 sets of wiper blades 5 exterior bulbs The car has seen more than a few drivers schools and autocrosses and is driven in every kind of weather except ice and snow. It's a rare drive when I don't wind it to the redline at least three or more times. No other car I've owned comes close to the reliability of my Club Sport. As a matter of fact, my son and I drove it to the movie theater just last night. The paint still shines like new, the interior has no rips, cracks, or tears, and the overall structure of the car is still extremely solid- there are no squeaks or rattles whatsoever. Over the life of the car the monthly service/repair costs have averaged closer $45 per month, including the 3 sets of tires mentioned above. This year my 3er cost $57 per month to run because it required an Inspection II(major) service, a coolant flush, a front end alignment and a thermostat. If you decide to buy a Bimmer I would strongly suggest that you join the BMW Car Club of America. You get a great monthly magazine as well as access to lots of information that will allow you to make informed decisions regarding maintenance and repairs. And BMW Drivers Schools are second to none. I would expect that the overall mechanical reliability of the new 3 Series will be similar to that of my Club Sport. However, like most every other automaker, BMW has seen fit to cram their cars with dozens of electronic gadgets operated my multiple processors. At 56K my wife's X4 has only required the replacement of an SRS occupant sensor pad. Her prior car was a 1997 528iA, and it too had no unusual glitches. I would hope the new 3ers exhibit similar overall reliability, but at this point it's too early to tell. |
|
|
Replying to: roadburner (Nov 24, 2007 8:57 am) Again, thanks for your input that is exactly what I was hoping to get out of this forum. I do understand that there might be some others that might have had bad experiences with the 3s (as it happens with any other cars) , but at least I can have some sort of idea from someone that has owned one since birth  I went to test drive the Lexus IS250 today and although it was very nice to look at (interior), the driving "feeling" was not there. I called my dealer since they also sell BMW to schedule a test drive on the 335 next week, even though my lease is not up until a couple of months, they assure me that the bimmer will put a smile in my face. I'll keep you posted,  R
|
|
|
Replying to: roadburner (Nov 24, 2007 8:57 am) just curious... where do you account for changes to the cooling system, suspension, etc.? Do you consider these "scheduled" or "non-scheduled". My limited (car has 83K miles, only 47K are mine) experience has been that the car is great to drive, but definitely requires more "unique" servicing. For example, I've never had to replace a radiator or expansion tank on a Japanese car below 150K miles. I haven't made any changes to the suspension, but I suspect somewhere north of 100K miles that I will need to do that as well.
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: rjorge3 (Nov 24, 2007 3:07 pm) Just remember, that's been my experience. You mileage may vary... Regardless, the BMW enthusiast community -and BMW CCA in particular- is a tremendous asset, and has probably saved me a few thousand dollars in time and trouble. And please let me know if you have any more questions. |
|
|
|
|
Replying to: sunilb (Nov 24, 2007 7:31 pm) Thanks! just curious... where do you account for changes to the cooling system, suspension, etc.? Do you consider these "scheduled" or "non-scheduled"? On a E36 or E46 # Series I would definitely replace the water pump and radiator prior to their normal failure point. For some reason, the cooling systems of 1994-1999 four cylinders are remarkably robust. As I mentioned above, I've only replaced the thermostat. In my experience, the sixes usually need a radiator prior to 100K and often a water pump as well. This has been true since 1983 and the introduction of the E28 533i. However, I hesitate to make any predictions concerning the N54 twin turbo, as it uses an electric water pump- thereby eliminating the thermostat. The new pump may last the life of the car or it may die at 100K. The radiator is still likely to need replacement around 100K. Fortunately BMW replacement units are relatively inexpensive. As for the suspension, I've found that most all cars -not just BMWs- will need some amount of suspension work as they near 120K. Just look at it as an opportunity to upgrade your existing set up. Dinan, Turner, TC Kline, and UUC Motorwerks all offer a wide selection of suspension packages as well as individual parts- all at various price points. For example, UUC has a nice spring and damper package for just $700. I'll be the first to admit that BMWs will tend to need a bit more TLC than the average Honda or Toyota, but in most cases any additional expense and hassle can be minimized by knowing what parts to buy, where to buy them, and where to have the work performed. |
|
|
Hi. I have a 2000 328Ci w/ 86K miles on it. The left back window and interior power lock button do not work, meaning nothing happens when I press on them. I'm thinking (hoping) this could be a fuse. Does anyone know if these two things could be connected?? Also, I've noticed a creaking coming from the back left side. I've read through some posts and a lot of people are saying it could be the 40/60 rear seats not locked in correctly, but this problem seems to cause creaking on the right hand side. I mainly notice the creaking when coming to stops. I'm thinking the second possibility could be the struts or maybe the shocks? But it's only when stopping and at slow speeds that I notice the creaking. Lastly, does anyone know of a good BMW tech in Greensboro, NC? Thanks in advance.
|
|
|
Replying to: angecs29 (Nov 27, 2007 6:50 am) |
|
|
|
Any opinions on the reputation, durability of a 1996 BMW 318iC 5 speed, 99K miles, very good records and history, clean car?
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Nov 28, 2007 9:55 am) I've heard that the convertible top can have problems, but I've never looked into it since drop tops don't interest me. As far as the rest of the car, the drivetrain is just about bulletproof. The only things that seem to wear are the serpentine belt tensioner and idler pullies, which are inexpensive and easily replaced. The only suspension parts that may need replacement are the rear shock mounts(replace them with the heavy duty units UUC Motorwerks sells), tie rod ends, and lower control arm bushings.
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: roadburner (Nov 28, 2007 10:27 am) Yep, I know about the control arm bushings.
|
|
You are here:
Forums
Sedans BMW 3-Series BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
2009 BMW 3 Series
Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
