Last post on Apr 30, 2013 at 3:31 PM
You are in the BMW 3-Series
What is this discussion about?
BMW 3 Series, Sedan
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#32 of 5349 Strange instrument module noise
Feb 16, 2001 (2:51 pm)
My 1996 328is has developed a strange gurgling/rattling noise that is originating from within the dashboard instrument module. Sounds like a speedometer cable but the noise occurs when the car is moving or stopped and when the engine is on or off. In fact, the car can be parked for days and the noise still continues. It began maybe 6 months ago at about 40,000 mi. and has been getting steadily worse until it is now very annoying. My local dealer claims to have not seen this before and tells me my only option is to replace the entire module, a part costing around $700.
Has anyone experienced this problem and does any one think I might have a shot at getting BMW to take care of the expense? Otherwise its a great machine.
#33 of 5349 traumamc
Feb 19, 2001 (2:23 pm)
Your message regarding the "clunking" noise/sensation coming from the rear of your manual tran 330ci really got my attention. I am about to order a 330ci. Have you received any other info about this problem. As you stated, you were able to duplicate this for your BMW service advisor. When it happened, were you driving the car or were they? Please don't take this as an insult, I absolutely do not mean it that way, but, could it possibly be the means with which you are operating the manual gearbox?
Feb 20, 2001 (1:59 pm)
I have the same "clunk." See message #1 if you have not done so. Two or three months ago there were a couple of discussions on the "rear clunk" on bimmer.org E46 board, too. I wonder this clunk is the reason why E46 clutch has the CDV?
#35 of 5349 silvernubira
Feb 20, 2001 (6:43 pm)
Sorry, I did not read message #1. My message was just a thought. Besides, I felt that traumamc's service advisor, when explaining the clunking noise,(part of the "BMW experience") was either uneducated when it comes to customer service or just plain sarcastic. Both characteristics very unbecoming for a BMW representative.
#36 of 5349 this one is for you niwde
Feb 21, 2001 (12:56 pm)
The clunking noise occurred while I was driving, but it also occurred when the head technician got behind the wheel. No offense taken about the way I drive. This is my first manual car and I am still learning. But I have had several people drive my car, many with over 30 years experience with manuals and the problem occurred for them as well. You are the first to respond to my post, so as of yet I don't know of any solution. If you can test drive a manual, this could just be an issue with my car. Hope this helps.
Feb 21, 2001 (1:35 pm)
E46 clutch is very tricky if I release the clutch pedal quickly, the clutch may slip drastically since CDV limits the movement of the disc and the pressure plate. I have been driving nothing but manual transmission cars since 1960s and E46 is NOT the one with best clutch (1988 Accord is!). When I am easy on the clutch it engages properly.
I wonder if this "rear clunk" is generated by by some problem in the rear suspension since when one engages the clutch, rear suspension is subjected to a sudden loading.
I have not taken the car to my dealer yet (hoping that the noise will disappear by itself!). But based on my previous experience with a local Toyota dealer I know that service advisors or managers are generally not interested in work that reqire locating noises, etc. because usually they are not reimbursed for the time they spend for locating the cause of such noises. Instead, they turn deaf and cannot hear noises or they say that such noises are "normal."
#38 of 5349 Clunking Noise, Brakes, Odometer, many problems with my 99 328I
Feb 22, 2001 (5:37 pm)
-My car has auto transmission, so I don't know if the clunking noise I've experienced is similar to the one you have with manual trans. A few months ago I had this rear clunking noise problem and it took me a while to finally get it fixed by the dealer shop. What they did was replace a "torn-out output flange".
-Both of the front and rear brakes have been replaced (pads and rotors), as recommended by the dealer shop after inspection, with the odometer read at around 34K. That was unbelievable!
-Car would not start. It started out randomly/rarely months ago and gradually became more frequently. The dealer shop replaced the "control box" in the instrument cluster and also found a "loose cable that was not making proper contact". After this fix, the car would start up all the time, but the odometer read about 8K miles less then when I brought the car into the shop. Now, the car has just been fixed. They told me that there was a bulletin from the manufacturer stating that if the battery is disconnected the odometer reading will reduce, and it will keeps on reducing each time the battery is disconnected, until it reaches 0 miles (I figured they must have disconnected the battery when they replaced the "control box"). They also told me that the bulletin does describe necessary steps to re-program the odometer (something like that) so that it won't change the next time the battery is disconnected. Seems like a power loss would cause the odometer to go beserk, on cars that have not been serviced for such a bulletin.
Have anyone out there ever heard of such a thing? If indeed there is a bulletin, why that has not been a "recall" as it sounds like a serious defect problem? Or did the service advisor bullsh*t me? The "BMW Experience" I've had is all but wonderful.
#39 of 5349 New front brakes after 18K on 2000 328I
Feb 24, 2001 (8:27 pm)
I just had new front pads and rotors put on my wife's 2000 328I after 18000 miles. Unbelievable! When I asked the service rep at the dealer how this was possible I got the usual talk about driving habits and so on. I really like this car but if I have to look forward to new brakes every year or so, well maybe BMW won't be my next car.
#40 of 5349 transmission shift issue?
Feb 25, 2001 (11:13 am)
I just bought my first BMW 528i 97. I really love the way the car drives.
I am concerned about the automatic transmission though. When the car first started in
cold weather, I typically drive with caution and keep a light touch on the gas.
1st and 2nd gear seem to shift around 2K RPMs but when it comes time to go from
3rd to D it won't shift until the RPM have reached about 3500. This seems really high
Even if I let off the gas doing 35 MPH it will not shift into the higher gears.
Is this a feature or a problem? WHen the car warms up the shifting still seems hard
from 3rd to D but not at low speeds. I think the car is still under factory warranty.
It's in service date in 6/97 and is has 35K miles.
Has anyone had a similar experience with their car and what did you do?
#41 of 5349 99 323i
Feb 25, 2001 (6:59 pm)
hey Im nearing the end of my lease on my 99 323i. I wish i knew about this place sooner. Overall i would rate my experience a very pleasureable one. I even tried extending my lease for 24 additional months , however they wanted more than a new one, so i opted not to. The only problems on my car were: airbag recalls, the central locking button failed- replaced.Have 34000 miles changed braked twice at about $370 each visit. Thermostat failed causing engine light to go on-fixed.Brakes where kind of squeeqing when i first got car had them looked at, noise went away for a while, returned then eventually dissappeared-for now. Overall these were minor problems that were fixed. Braked were a bit expensive but overall rated - very good.