Ask the Car People.SM


BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

5349 messages,  Last post on Apr 30, 2013 at 3:31 PM

You are in the BMW 3-Series Forum.

What is this discussion about? BMW 3 Series, Sedan

    
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
Or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm ET) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800)424-9153

Messages Page 304 of 535

#3031 of 5349 Charging system problems? by caracraig

Sep 19, 2006 (9:47 am)

I have a 1994 BMW 325i. Recently I have put about $3000 in it and it hasn't fixed the problems. First time, as I was driving I noticed the lights dimming, the radio was going in and out and then after a couple of miles and going up a hill the transmission light, ABS, air bag, Traction Control lights came on as well as the gauges going crazy. I pulled over and when I put it in park the car idled rough. I turned the car off and then after trying to restart it I was unsuccessful. I had it towed to a repair shop and was told I had a bad transmission. It cost me $2500 to rebuild the transmission. When I picked it up it seemed to be working fine for about 2 weeks. Then, it happened again, same thing. In the meantime I had taken it to another local repair shop at the suggestion of the transmission shop, because my check engine light came on and the transmission shop wasn't able to check it. The second shop told me it was an oxygen sensor light. After it stopped for the second time I called the guy who rebuilt my transmission because he told me that was the problem in the first place, but, this time he told me he knew it wasn't the transmission and to call the place I had clear the check engine light which came back on because I didn't get the o2 sensor replaced. I had it towed to the second repair shop who at that point found a loose battery ground but said the battery and the alternator checked out fine although when the car first arrived via tow truck the battery was definately dead. He told me it was being cause now by the lose ground. Satisfied with this, another $200, I left and 3 days later it happened again, luckily in my drive. What is weird is when I turn it off when this happens and starts idling rough I can turn on the acc power and can listen to the radio, etc but when I try to start it, it just ticks. But, let it sit long enough (as short at 45 min to several hours or overnight) it will start again with no problem. It reminds me of a remote control car that you have to recharge when the battery dies except to recharge it I just have to let it sit. We did get the alternator changed about 3 months before it quit the first time and that is when the check engine light came on, after we changed it. I also notice, every time before it happens, the AC will start blowing hot air, the lights will dim (headlights and interior dash lights) and the windows, etc work slowly. Has anyone else had this problem or think of what this could be? I am wanting to sell this car but am having trouble putting more money into it since it's 12 years old now. Help!!!!

#3032 of 5349 Re: Charging system problems? [caracraig] by div2

Sep 19, 2006 (10:31 am)

Replying to: caracraig (Sep 19, 2006 9:47 am)
I have a 1994 BMW 325i. Recently I have put about $3000 in it and it hasn't fixed the problems.
 
Which is why I advise owners of older BMWs to find a good independent tech who KNOWS AND UNDERSTANDS BMWS!!!
 
First time, as I was driving I noticed the lights dimming, the radio was going in and out and then after a couple of miles and going up a hill the transmission light, ABS, air bag, Traction Control lights came on as well as the gauges going crazy. I pulled over and when I put it in park the car idled rough. I turned the car off and then after trying to restart it I was unsuccessful.
 
Those are the classic symptoms of a dying battery.
 
I had it towed to a repair shop and was told I had a bad transmission. It cost me $2500 to rebuild the transmission. When I picked it up it seemed to be working fine for about 2 weeks.
 
That guy was an idiot and/or a outright crook.
 
Then, it happened again, same thing.
 
I'm not surprised.
 
In the meantime I had taken it to another local repair shop at the suggestion of the transmission shop, because my check engine light came on and the transmission shop wasn't able to check it. The second shop told me it was an oxygen sensor light. After it stopped for the second time I called the guy who rebuilt my transmission because he told me that was the problem in the first place, but, this time he told me he knew it wasn't the transmission and to call the place I had clear the check engine light which came back on because I didn't get the o2 sensor replaced.
 
Another incompetent fool; a bad O2 sensor won't cause the problems you experienced.
 
I had it towed to the second repair shop who at that point found a loose battery ground but said the battery and the alternator checked out fine although when the car first arrived via tow truck the battery was definitely dead. He told me it was being cause now by the lose ground. Satisfied with this, another $200, I left and 3 days later it happened again, luckily in my drive.
 
$200 to fix a "loose ground"? Another thief.
 
What is weird is when I turn it off when this happens and starts idling rough I can turn on the acc power and can listen to the radio, etc but when I try to start it, it just ticks. But, let it sit long enough (as short at 45 min to several hours or overnight) it will start again with no problem. It reminds me of a remote control car that you have to recharge when the battery dies except to recharge it I just have to let it sit. We did get the alternator changed about 3 months before it quit the first time and that is when the check engine light came on, after we changed it. I also notice, every time before it happens, the AC will start blowing hot air, the lights will dim (headlights and interior dash lights) and the windows, etc work slowly. Has anyone else had this problem or think of what this could be?
 
Again, it's probably the battery, though the starter might be getting as well. The likely reason the car won't start when it is hot is because the engine heat increases the resistance of the starter motor windings. Your battery has enough power to start the car when it is cold but not when it is hot.
 
I am wanting to sell this car but am having trouble putting more money into it since it's 12 years old now. Help!!!!
 
I'd buy it if it wasn't a slushbox...

#3033 of 5349 Re: Charging system problems? [caracraig] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

Sep 22, 2006 (8:33 pm)

Replying to: caracraig (Sep 19, 2006 9:47 am)
If you are in the San Francisco Bay Area, I know people who know how to fix BMWs correctly. E-mail me if that's your locale. Otherwise, get rid of these people and ask other BMW owners you meet where to take your car.

#3034 of 5349 1986 325es 2 door hardtop questions by joyrider147

Sep 23, 2006 (6:30 am)

I have an american edition 1986 BMW 325es 2 door with a 2.7 liter 6 cylinder engine and automatic trans. with 179,000 miles on it. Not too bad for $600.00, considering needing a few hundred in parts.
 
Can anyone tell me what the "es" stands for? Does the "e" stand for "economic"? Which is better, an "e" series or an "i" series? Does an "e" series reduce its overall horsepower and top speed for excellent gas mileage or high durability with a more stiffened suspension? Or does the "i" series increase overall performance but doesn't have as good a suspension system as the sport edition? What type of sport upgrades are on this car? More than a 325i?
 
There are 3 buttons on the center console. One is the hazards, the next is the defroster, and the 3rd is withered away so I can't tell what it does. Does anyone know?
 
I seen a fog light switch that can add forward and rear fog lights with little modification to an e30. Does this particular year have the wiring where you can remove the tail light caps, add more caps with lights, and have rear fog lights?
 
Also, the brakes do not work unless the pedal is to the floor and then it is delayed. The system is not leaking brake fluid. Does the system need to be bled or does it need a brake booster?
 
The engine has a slight rough idle. It seems there is a hose that is sealed, but not connected to the intake manifold on the top right side of the engine. What would this hose do and what does the (sensor?) on the intake manifold do? Is this the air flow meter?
 
Every few days the battery runs dead. Is there a continuously running BMW equipment that drains the battery if left sitting for several days (locks, alarm, starter kill rechargable flashlight)?
 
thank you for your input.

#3035 of 5349 Re: 1986 325es 2 door hardtop questions [joyrider147] by div2

Sep 23, 2006 (9:29 am)

Replying to: joyrider147 (Sep 23, 2006 6:30 am)
I have an american edition 1986 BMW 325es 2 door with a 2.7 liter 6 cylinder engine and automatic trans. with 179,000 miles on it. Not too bad for $600.00, considering needing a few hundred in parts.
 
It's a good deal- assuming that you can do your own wrenching.
 
Can anyone tell me what the "es" stands for? Does the "e" stand for "economic"?
 
The "e" stands for eta- the Greek symbol for efficiency. The BMW eta engines were designed to develop good torque and fuel economy at low rpms. The 4700 rpm redline is extremely low for a BMW spark ignition engine.
 
Which is better, an "e" series or an "i" series?
 
The e and i are engine -not series- designations. That said, most BMW enthusiasts prefer the "i" engine. It has 47 more bhp and revs to 6400 rpm. On a more positive note, the power and torque curves of the eta motor are well suited to an automatic transmission. Either motor needs a timing belt change at no less than 60K intervals. Change the belt tensioner and water pump while you are at it.
 
What type of sport upgrades are on this car? More than a 325i?
 
The 325es suspension features M-Technic spoilers, shorter/stiffer springs, and Bilstein dampers. Inside you get BMW sport seats and a M-Technic steering wheel. A vanilla 325i will still be faster due to the large hp difference. Pick of the E30 litter is the 325is, which has even stiffer springs and dampers as well as the more enthusiastic 168 hp engine.
 
There are 3 buttons on the center console. One is the hazards, the next is the defroster, and the 3rd is withered away so I can't tell what it does. Does anyone know?
I seen a fog light switch that can add forward and rear fog lights with little modification to an e30. Does this particular year have the wiring where you can remove the tail light caps, add more caps with lights, and have rear fog lights?
 
Can't help you there, I'm not an E30 expert. Sorry.
 
Also, the brakes do not work unless the pedal is to the floor and then it is delayed. The system is not leaking brake fluid. Does the system need to be bled or does it need a brake booster?
 
It could be the booster or air in the system, but it might also be a bad master cylinder. E30s require an annual brake fluid flush using DOT 4 fluid only. If the fluid in the brake reservoir is murky or black you should flush the system again after a couple of weeks. Even then, you may be looking at rebuilding the calipers.
  
The engine has a slight rough idle. It seems there is a hose that is sealed, but not connected to the intake manifold on the top right side of the engine. What would this hose do and what does the (sensor?) on the intake manifold do? Is this the air flow meter?
 
The first thing you should do is buy the Bentley E30 Service Manual. That will address most of your questions.
 
Every few days the battery runs dead. Is there a continuously running BMW equipment that drains the battery if left sitting for several days (locks, alarm, starter kill rechargable flashlight)?
 
It could be the battery. Have it load tested. If it fails, replace it with an Interstate MTP-91. If the battery checks out good, I would next check the glovebox and trunk lamps. They sometimes remain on and cause the battery to drain. Adjusting or shimming the switch or its contact point should fix the problem. If the lamps aren't at fault, you need to hook up an ammeter to the battery and measure the current draw. Next, start pulling fuses one at a time. When you find the fuse that stops the current drain, you will have isolated the circuit that is causing the problem. In my experience, a frequent culprit is a poorly installed aftermarket radio and/or alarm.

#3036 of 5349 Re: 1986 325es 2 door hardtop questions [joyrider147] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

Sep 23, 2006 (12:22 pm)

Replying to: joyrider147 (Sep 23, 2006 6:30 am)
Sounds like a bad brake booster.
 
Rough idle/stalling might be the rubber boot that connects the fuel injection distributor to the intake manifold. Look for a cracked boot UNDERNEATH where you can't see it. This is actually a huge vacuum leak.
 
Given this car's issues, you may wish to consider bailing out on this vehicle. You can buy these cars pretty cheap in decent shape---but of course, if you like to fix 'em, you can save a lot on labor. But add up your parts costs for all this stuff and match that against a retail value for a clean '86 at about $2,500.

#3037 of 5349 Battery keeps dying by ktyklr

Sep 23, 2006 (3:14 pm)

I have a 2000 323ci that I just purchased a couple of months ago, has only 9K miles. The original owner said he replaced the battery last year.
Everything has been great but then last week, the battery dies, I jump start it and its' fine for a couple of days and then dies again. I replaced the battery 2 days ago, and went to start the car this morning and it was dead. Before I take it to a mechanic, is there anything I should look for....Thanks

#3038 of 5349 Re: 1986 325es 2 door hardtop questions [joyrider147] by choco325

Sep 23, 2006 (7:23 pm)

Replying to: joyrider147 (Sep 23, 2006 6:30 am)
Im pretty sure that the " I " is for injection eg fuel injection. So most models go say 325is: 3 series 2.5 liter engine fuel injected sport model ( enhanced suspension components) The "x " is for models with 4 wheel drive and the "L" is for luxury such as the 735IL model. Im not sure what the e is for. I have seen es with Lexus but not BMW.

#3039 of 5349 Re: Clutch chatter [gordonwd] by doug36

Sep 23, 2006 (11:29 pm)

Replying to: gordonwd (Jul 26, 2005 7:48 am)
I have a 2006 325i with a 6sp manual transmission, and I also have developed a slight chatter when I let the clutch out slowly in first gear. I have only 9k kilometers, or about 5,500 miles on the car. Have you found any solutions to this problem?

#3040 of 5349 clunking noise under car with steering vibration by chashoang

Sep 25, 2006 (10:57 am)

Hi everyone,
 
It's been awhile since i've posted but am in need of help asap. My 2002 330CI was taken in to fix the brakes and upon review, they noted that the control arms would need to be replace sometime soon. Over the last 3 weeks, I've been getting a clunking sound under the right side to the car along with extreeme vibrations steering to the right at highway speeds. I took the car in today to a different dealership near my work and they diagnosed the same problem....lower control arms right side immed.....left side reccom...along with 2 new bushings. $1140 for everything. My car has 50,000 miles, and the pre-cert warranty along with the extended factory maintenance warranty will not cover suspension type components i was told.
 
Can anyone let me know if the $114O sounds accurate, and should i have them do it or could someone reccomend a qualified tech. in the Chicago area. Also, if a independent shop does it... could it nullify any of my current warranties?
 
thanks a bunch,
 
chas

Messages Page 304 of 535

To POST a message, please Sign In.

Advertisement

Browse by Category

Browse by Vehicle
   View All Vehicles

Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
View All Topics

Edmunds Community

Advertisement