Last post on Nov 29, 2013 at 2:06 PM
You are in the BMW 3-Series
What is this discussion about?
BMW 3 Series, Sedan
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
Or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm ET) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800)424-9153
Apr 14, 2005 (9:57 am)
"I went to dealership to replace one of power steering lines. Technician told me that is better to change both power steering lines, he thinks that both of them are leaking." He just "thinks" so? Well, maybe he's correct, maybe he isn't. The Tech sounds like a part replacer and not a mechanic. There was a seeping hose on my wife's E39 and my independent tech fixed it by replacing a clamp for all of 50 cents.
As for BMW reliability and durability, the maintenance costs on my 1995 95000 mile E36 average less than $40/month while the wife's 1997 116000 mile E39 running costs average around $85/month. Those figures include scheduled maintenance, repairs, and tires.
#1756 of 5378 Re: 99 323 questions [bentley6]
Apr 14, 2005 (1:49 pm)
I also have a '99 BMW 323. It currently has 60k and I bought it used so I have no idea if the brakes have ever been done on it. The dealership is trying to get me for well over a 1,000$ for front and rear discs and pads. He's telling me 128$/pair for the pads and I've seen them for as low as 45$/pair online for the same vehicle. As far as the rotors; Should I just mic them myself? Where can I get the information I need so that I know what government standards are? I think it's a little odd that all four pads AND rotors go bad simultaneously. How come you can't go to a brake joint and get pads? They always say the freakin' rotors are bad? Can anyone help?
#1757 of 5378 Re: 99 323 questions [mastershake]
Apr 14, 2005 (2:32 pm)
Okay, I'm going to help you separate the wheat from the chaff here.
I buy my pads from ImportReplacementParts.com, however, pick any place you want.
According to http://www.importrp.com/catalogm.php?man=34&type=34&year=30&year_name=1999
Front PBR/Axxis Deluxe pads are $39.99
Rear PBR/Axxis Deluxe pads are $29.99
Front Brembo Brake Rotors are 37.99 (x2) = 75.98
Rear Brembo Brake Rotors are 47.99 (x2) = 95.98
Front OEM Brake Rotors are 27.00 (x2) = 54.00
Using the Deluxe pads and all Brembo rotors, the total cost for parts is $241.94 plus taxes and shipping. Believe it or not this is a fairly easy do it yourself job, however, if you don't want to DIY, then you can certainly find a local independent BMW shop to do it for you.
As for minimum rotor thickness, it should be stamped or cast into the back side of the hat, so all you need to do is to take the rotors off and look inside.
Regarding all four corners needing replacement at the same time. Yup. The fact is that the BMW is a fairly well balanced animal, and as such, it uses all for corners to perform most every maneuver in the driving regimen, except of course acceleration when we are talking about a RWD car. As such, while the rear brakes will wear out slightly slower than the fronts, from what I've seen on my two BMWs the rears will last maybe 5,000 miles longer than the fronts. It ain't worth it to do one set, and then do the others a month or so later, just replace them all.
Regarding the rotors going bad after a single set of pads. That is sort of a misnomer. What is happening these days is that manufacturers are trying to reduce both unsprung weight for better handling and overall weight for better mileage. One of the first components to be put on a diet were brake rotors. It is not at all unusual these days for rotors to be very near, if not below minimum thickness levels after a single set of pads. As for those that aren't? If you cut them, then they will be very near, and then only a few thousand miles into the next set of pads they will be well below minimums. With rotors being so inexpensive these days, most folks just toss them without even checking to see if they can be reused.
I don't know if this helps all that much, however, it is what it is.
#1758 of 5378 mastershake
Apr 14, 2005 (2:44 pm)
A set of BMW rotors will almost always last through two sets of pads. The reason dealers often push to change the rotors is that in some cases the rotors may wear past their minimum thickness before the second set of pads are worn out. That said, in my 20 years of continuous BMW ownership(from E3-E39) I have never had a problem with using BMW rotors for two sets of pads-track cars or street sleds. I'd go with Axxis Deluxe Plus pads on a street driven car and I'd get the rotors from a BMW dealer who offers a good CCA discount, such as The BMW Store in Cincinnati. As for "brake joints"-blecch :p -they are usually franchises trained to deal with wheeled appliances from Dullsville such as minivans and fwd family sedans. Who knows what "white box" junk they might slap on your car-or if they even know how to do the job propoerly? Find a good local independent BMW shop. Check with other CCA members in your area for referrals. OTOH, why not buy the E46 Bentley manual and do it yourself? It's a very easy 2-3 hour job; my ten year old son can do it...
#1759 of 5378 Re: airbag light? [sunilb]
Apr 15, 2005 (1:37 pm)
ok....so I got them fixed by a mechanic (I am a girl and would not have even known where to start)......just got it fixed yesterday........
(keep in mind I have had the car for two week)......today a 17 year old on a cell phone ran a red light and I plowed her.....i am beginning to think maybe this isn't the car for me
the damage is not that bad....but bad enough to make me mad.....oh well....I will get it fixed and move right along to what happens next......
Just thought that was interesting
#1760 of 5378 Frustrated with a bmw in the big easy
Apr 16, 2005 (6:53 pm)
My brother bought me a 1995 318is red 2 dr for a graduation present and I have had more trouble than a little bit. I am now a graduate student with very limited funds and these parts prices are out of control. However, I do have a friend who will repair my car if i buy the parts so that the dealership doesn't get my money.My first question is, where exactly are the knock sensors located so that they can be repaired? How important is the air flow meter, will my car stop running? And is it true that you can figure out the diagnostic codes by pressing the accelerator without actually going to the dealership or a repair shop that will charge you an arm and two legs.
#1761 of 5378 Air Condition and Musty Smell
Apr 16, 2005 (7:56 pm)
I begin to think that the air condition system of my 05 325i does have some problems, not just poor design or new car adjustment.
There are several symptoms:
1.) Everytime after I switch-off the air condition, there is a musty smell come out of the vent persisting for several minutes. I orginally thought this should go away after a while. But not, even after 700 miles. And the funny thing is, it only happens for the ~ten minutes after I switch off the air condition each time.
2.) The air coming out of the vent is always kind of warmy, if the air condition is off, even when the outside temperature is quite chilly. (I always leave the temp setting between 72 and 75, and open the air circulation from outside)
3.) After I turn-off the engine following a short drive with air condition on, I can hear a not-too-loud but persisting "clicking" sounds coming out from somewhere inside the car, for few minutes after the engine is off and key is out. And, this sound doesn't happen if the drive was with the air condition off.
I searched the previous messages in this forum for this sort of problems. I found a couple of previously reported incidences seems similar (e.g. attached below), but no solution was mentioned.
648 of 1760 Air Conditioning by rshaw11 Apr 02, 2003 (5:57 pm)
I have had my 2002 325i for almost a year now and still can't figure out the air conditioning system. I have to keep the temperature set at 62 degrees, or lower to make the interior comforatble; when the center vent control is on the two blue dots the air gets louder and softer at different times, must be some type of air distribution system, but the manual doesn't explain it. After I shut off the air, I get a REALLY bad smell. And the car doesn't cool down without the air conditioner being on very well.
#649 of 1760 Air conditioning. by kdshapiro Apr 02, 2003 (6:22 pm)
I push the manual override to send the air through the center vents. Move the wheel on the center vents that contains the red and blue dots, downward past the notch to the locked position, until the three blue dots are in the center.
If your air doesn't blow ice cold after you press the snowflake button, bring it in. I keep the air at 69. Set the recirculate button to the position, where a green led is light on the left.
The softer/louder noise you hear is the automatic air distribution system.
Apr 17, 2005 (2:37 pm)
i have had my 2004 330 CI M for about 10 months now and recently just started hearing a vibration /rattling noise when going over bumps/rough areas. it sounds like it's coming from the sunroof area but i'm not sure. has anyone else had a similar problem or any suggestions on the source of the problem? thanks.
#1763 of 5378 90 Trouble free Miles on 325XiT
Apr 18, 2005 (1:50 am)
I picked up my new 325XiT on Saturday and yesterday (at 90 miles) the EML, Brake and ABS trouble lights went on. Of course I will be taking it back today but has anyone else experience this and what did they find to be the cause?
#1764 of 5378 armand
Apr 18, 2005 (6:00 am)
It could be one of several things; probably a bad sensor or connection. This type of failure is referred to as an "infant mortality" by vehicle manufacturers. Electronics usually either fail almost immediately or have a long trouble free service life. I wouldn't worry about it; the SRS light illuminated on my 3er two days after delivery. The dealer did nothing but reset the light and it hasn't reappeared in nearly ten years and 96000 miles.