Last post on Dec 20, 2011 at 7:53 AM
You are in the Isuzu Trooper
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Isuzu Ascender, Isuzu Trooper, SUV
Your Community Leader is paisan.
#3174 of 3299 TOD and how it works???
Feb 21, 2007 (8:02 am)
I just purchased a 2000 Trooper and during the test drive the rear wheel TOD indicators were solid green. Now when I start the engine, the rear wheel indicators flash and then the check light illuminates. How is the TOD supposed to work? Should all four wheel indicators illuminate on the TOD? Is there a TOD switch? Is the check indicator and critical problem or safety hazard? The Isuzu dealer in my area states that it could take 2 weeks to get my vehicle serviced. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I really like this Trooper and hope the problems isn't major. My husband is mechanically inclined so maybe he can correct the issue. Thanks again.
#3175 of 3299 Re: TOD and how it works??? [csh3]
Feb 21, 2007 (9:19 am)
Hi, I have an older Trooper but there is a lot of discussion on the TOD system, Torque on Demand. Basically, there is a module under the seat that monitors the prop shaft speeds between the front and rear props. A sensor for the front and one for the rear monitor the revolutions and when a large enough difference exists, as induced by wheel slippage, the module tells the transfer case clutch to engage (or Not) and distribute power proportionately to the axles. Bottom line is check the connectors on the sensors which are on the transfer case. The sensors themselves are quite expensive. The module can set a code which in your trooper can only be read by a tech 2 or similar. If the indicators flash, there is probably a code set. As far as I know, there is no switch, but maybe someone else will know for sure. As for safety, I don't think it is dangerous to drive, but you lose the automatic engagement of the transfer case, and I don't know what that can mean to driveability. Hope this gets the information flowing for you. If you search the "trooper" forum using the search link you will see a lot more about this option. Good luck.
#3176 of 3299 try engaging/disengaging
Feb 21, 2007 (11:13 am)
If you hit the auto-4wd switch you can put it in 2wd. See if you can do that, also put it in neutral and use the lever to put it in 4wd-lo to engage it. See if that clears up the check TOD light.
#3177 of 3299 Re: 1991 ISUZU TROOPER POWER ISSUES.. [mataus]
Feb 21, 2007 (9:05 pm)
let me tell you exactly how to fix this problem....
when you hit the incline -- everyone in the car needs rock back and forth -- in unison of course. the momentum should keep you moving forward.
or you could move to KS like I did...
I had an '87 back in the day and we'd go from Denver to Craig once a month and trust me getting passed by semis' was the norm..
#3178 of 3299 1998 Trooper possible transmission issue
Mar 19, 2007 (6:05 am)
I'm looking to answer a couple questions today while my parents' Trooper (a vehicle I owned for its first 7 years) is being evaluated at a local independent shop.
1998 Trooper with TOD, approx 130k miles, good mechanical condition.
1. Does the following sound like a transmission problem?
2. If so, what if anything can be done to fix the problem?
3. How much would YOU sink into trans work on a vehicle that is probably worth $3,000-4,000 tops? The body is in decent shape but there's a small dent above right rear taillight and some rust under the bottom of the rear window. Interior - everything still works including the 6 CD changer and the cloth upholstery is in really good shape for a 9 year old vehicle.
Few weeks ago, Dad has Trooper transmission serviced. I'm not 100% sure, but I believe the shop did a power flush blow out old fluid using a machine, etc.) against my recommendation. Only prior trans service was a drain adn fill around 70k miles.
Past few days, Mom reports vehicle driving funny. I drove it briefly on Saturday, and there's definitely something wrong. Vehicle lurches accelerating from 20 to 40mph and at higher speeds, says Dad. Also notice a pretty loud whomping recurrent noise from rear axle/wheels. Not sure if this whole thing might be some sort of brake issue, or multiple issues (seems unlikely), or what.
Thanks in advance for the help. I really love this truck even though it isn't mine any more, and I'm hoping it can be made right without breaking the bank.
#3179 of 3299 Re: 1998 Trooper possible transmission issue [bluedevils]
Mar 19, 2007 (6:13 pm)
Check the transmission oil level to eliminate low oil level in the transmission. Check the Transmission Mode Switch, also known as the Range Switch, if it has never been changed, it could be the problem. Search this forum for the
Mode switch for more details. The loud thumb could be the Slip yolk needs some grease. Slip yolk is part of the Drive Shaft assembly. Hope this helps and Good Luck
Mar 20, 2007 (4:23 am)
Supposedly, the problem was actually a bad wire (spark plug wire?) to one of the cylinders and it was misfiring.
I'll wait and see if that is the only problem; shop is replacing plugs and wires today, charging my Dad only $190 for everything including the labor to investigate the problem. This seems like a really reasonable price.
I'm still concerned that the trans power flush could have caused some issues -- not sure what, if anything, can be done at this point to reduce chances of trans problems caused by the power flush.
#3181 of 3299 Re: Thanks [bluedevils]
by Stever@Edmunds HOST
Mar 20, 2007 (7:23 am)
If you think the power flush may have dislodged gunk, you could try another fluid change or two and hope it "thins the clots out some." From the comments around here, it seems that most failures occur pretty soon after the flush though. Or maybe people don't associate a failure with a flush they got a year before.
Instead of pulling transmissions, maybe Aamco will come out with a balloon gizmo - angioplasty for your tranny.
#3182 of 3299 Re: Thanks [bluedevils]
Mar 20, 2007 (8:03 am)
There are lot of opinions on whether to have a Flush or have Drain and refill. Most of the time the recommendation is against the flush, particularly for high mileage cars which did not have regular drain and refills as the flush will remove the built up layers of lubrication. On my 98 Rodeo,Auto 2WD regularly having drain and refill every 30K, sometime immediatly after having the drain and refill the Transmission settles down to the new oil after few hundered miles and have some slips from 2nd to 4th etc few times. This is purely my own individual experience and opinion. Hence, you might want to wait a while before deciding that there is really a problem. Glad to know it was only a bad spark plug wire.
#3183 of 3299 2000 Trooper 'surging'
Apr 07, 2007 (3:03 pm)
G'day one and all.I am from Victoria, Australia and have been having a problem with my 2000 3.5l V6 Jackaroo (Trooper)'surging/misfiring' after being driven for about an hour. The check engine light does not come on, dealership is reporting no faults logged and problem is overcome by cycling engine off/on. This problem only started happening after I had the motor fully rebuilt at 100000kms. I'll give you a bit of background info leading up to motor rebuild and what I have done since. Let's see .... bought vehicle in July last year, August saw us take it on an adventure through the Alpine regions and highplains. One particular track had 20+ river crossings but on crossing #3 I drove through a slightly deeper fjord and found the air intake was not that well protected. Yep, hydraulicaly locked the motor due to water in the intake. Motor would not turn at all. After clearing out cylinders af said water the motor was making a very loud noise. Towed car home and upon inspection found i had bent #6 conrod. Removed motor, had it rebuilt and put back in myself. When putting the intake manifold back on (after about a month) found there was still about 1 liter of water in the intake manifold. Motor started up with no problems and I thought I was done. September last year-- first warmish day of Spring and car starts 'surging/misfiring' when revs get to 2500-3000rpm.Was doing this when car was stopped and just putting foot on acc. pedal. Limped car home and one week later problem happened again on 30degC day. Limped car home and took to dealer the next day and of course no faults logged and car running perfectly. For the next 4 months every time car was driven on 30degC+ day for over an hour problem would occur again. Then one day 40degC problem started happening and motor eventually stopped. Cycled ignition off/on, motor started and everytime revs reached 2500rpm car started bucking like a bull at a rodeo. cycle ignition and o.k. till revs got to 2500 and so it went. Another time problem starts happening, limp car to dealership, turn car off whilst getting service manager to come for a drive, of course no problems with service guy in car. March this year checked fuel flow from return line under car (next to fuel filter). Getting about 300ml/15secs. SPEC is 'at least 380ml/15secs from filter. Changed fuel filter (the one removed was that dirty there is still a brown stain on my driveway 4 weeks later) and rechecked fuel flow. Now getting about 370ml/15secs from return line. This is with motor not running and pump bridged at relay.Should I recheck the flow from filter or replace fuel pump as I am not getting spec flow from return line. (with motor not running the flow from filter should be the same as the flow from the return line) How could this be the cause and why does the problem only happen after an hour of driving and clear by cycling the ingnition off/on??????Any thoughts on the matter would be greatly appreciated.