Last post on Nov 26, 2006 at 9:37 PM
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Toyota Tacoma, Truck
#869 of 2067 Bad Gas Mileage 95 Tacoma, Please help
Nov 01, 2003 (3:06 pm)
I posted a message last year about bad mileage and I'm still getting bad mileage. Repair shops (four to be exact incl two Toyota Dealerships) state that they cannot find anything wrong with my 1995 Tacoma 2.7L 4 cyl. 4X4 because it doesn't throw any codes.
I have done all the basic tune-up steps (plugs, wires, distr., rotor, fuel filter, air, PCV). Still a problem.
Intersting thing is when I bought the truck at 110,000 miles, it needed a new catalyctic converter. A year to the day, I had it replaced again (so three total since I've purchased it). Right after cat replacement, mileage went from around 14-16 to 19-20?
Mileage has been creeping down again (in the 17s right now) and it feels like the cat is going again. Temps are going down as well as I live in New England. I've also read how raw fuel from a rich mixture can burn the cat out?
I have no idea what could be causing this? It does run rough (shakes when idling). Fuel pressure regulator, MAF sensor, temp sensor, O/2 sensor, any sensor??? A hose that could be loose like one of the recently published articles on Edmunds (which hose)? Nothing's giving a reading. Any ideas?
#872 of 2067 2000->2001 changes
Nov 04, 2003 (6:50 am)
Were in a couple of categories:
1. Cosmetic. Front grill changed that year, so all mounts did too.
2. Brakes. In 2001 Toyota went to 16" rims b/c they put large ABS calipers on all their trucks.
3. I think there were some safety changes.
Should be no changes as far as drivetrain goes. I use a generic '95+ manual which includes T100, 4Runner and Tacoma.
#873 of 2067 Starter Change
Nov 04, 2003 (12:11 pm)
Well, the "clicking" began to get worse last week, so after parking on a hill for a month I decided to change the starter on my 98 Tacoma 3.4L 4x4 Extra Cab. You have to disconnect the battery, pull off the front right wheel, remove the liner on the inner fender well (4 clips), unplug one pigtail and unscrew one nut. Then you have to jack the vehicle up higher, get a 3' breaker bar and a boatload of extensions and swivels, and wheeze till you turn blue to get the bracket that is in the way (three bolts) and the two bolts that hold the starter to the bell housing to loosen up. Steel bolts in aluminum threads, some form of light corrosion seems to keep them at the factory original torque of however-much-the-impact-gun-will-hammer-them-in. After two hernias and enough WD-40 to float an aircraft carrier, they will finally come out. Then you just have to be the monkey boy from the freak show to get your human sized arms to grab the little beast and wiggle it out without poking holes in any ABS type lines. I put it back on much the same way, except without the use of an impact gun, and with some anti-sieze on the threads. About three hours for those of you so inclined. I got in the truck and hit the ingition/starter switch, and it actually STARTED! No clicking, no piddling around, just cranked right up. I figure if I can get another 167,000 out of this one, I'll be doing all right. Oh, and it does have a lifetime warranty!
#874 of 2067 Check Engine Light/Valve out of Spec/ Cylider Misfire
Nov 04, 2003 (1:57 pm)
+ I have a 2000 Taco Ext. Cab 4X4 2.7 4Cyldr 5 Speed.
+ Never had any problems, had dealer service at 25K and 48K. All oil changes under 5K miles, most near 3K.
+ Check engine light came on at 75K.
+ Brought it in to the dealer for diagnosis of CE Light and next scheduled maintenance.
+ Dealer asked me if I had a valve adjustment at 60K, I told them "No, didn't know it needed one." They said it absolutely must have one done then or you can have major problems with the valves, etc. I talked to other 4Cylndr. Tacoma owners they never heard of this, but it is in the manual.
+ After diagnosis they said "Cylinder 1 had a misfire, thus the CE Light". They said the valve in that cylinder was pretty far out of spec, so they did an adjustment and they said they "saved it" by bringing it back in to spec. They said they needed to "shim" the valve to bring it back within spec. They also did my maintenance (plugs, fluids, etc).
+ Drove it away, 4K Miles later (79K), Check Engine light came on again. They said same cylinder had a misfire but their technician put in the wrong spark plug in that cylinder. They replaced all spark plugs, and I drove it away.
+ 2 Days later, Check engine light came on again, they reported that the valve is out of spec again (0.06 accepted range is between 0.10 - 0.15). They said they "Don't know what is wrong with the engine, but in order to find out they need to do a TEARDOWN.
+ Dealer turned off Check Engine Light - at 82K Miles it came on again.
+ Dealer saie teardown of engine will cost $1,000 just to diagnose the problem. This seems weird that they can't diagnose the problem without tearing down the entire engine first. They said they may have the rebuild the top end of my engine.
+ My truck drive absolutely fine with no performance or fuel efficiency difference. Lately however it does seem to be idling a bit rough.
Has anyone had a similar experience to this with their Tacoma? Any ideas about what is causing this misfire or what an "out of spec valve" can do to my engine?
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
#876 of 2067 Hard Starting Tacoma
Nov 10, 2003 (9:57 pm)
I have an 03 Tacoma Pre-Runner, D Cab V6 (1100 mi) that also occasionally starts hard. At first I thought it was my imagination, but after reading some of these postings (I am new to the board), I am convinced the problem is real.
Also, the mileage sucks. I have been pampering the vehicle through break-in period yet I am getting 16-17mpg. I increased tire pressure to 32 psi from factory 27 psi. Comments?
Nov 11, 2003 (6:33 am)
1of4, my experience with my tacoma (2.7 manual) was that the mileage started at about 17-18mpg for the first 3000 miles or so, then gradually moved up to between 22-23mpg. The break in on these engines seems to take a little longer.
Nov 11, 2003 (6:58 am)
You're not through the breakin period yet. Have patience. Also, do not be hoping for more than 18-19 mpg milage.....you have a V6 and a tall truck. My 4x4 gets 18mpg in mixed city/hwy driving, or was until temperatures dropped. Winter driving is here, gas milage goes down b/c of fuel additives and colder air.
Realistically, you'll see 17-19 in the city, and on average, 19-20 on highway.
Things you can do:
1. Increase tire pressure. After the increase, do a chalk test to make sure your tire is wearing out correctly (although at 32 you're fine. I run 35 in my BFG AT)
2. Switch to synthetic oil. It may be a myth that synthetics increase gas milage, but you get such benefits as better wear, longer time between changes. Overall, it may just come out to be the same $$ (if I don't have time to change my oil, I go to a dealer and bring my oil, you get a discount on the service since you're not using theirs). I run synthetic in the front/rear diffs, T-case, tranny and engine.
3. Get better air filter. This is a tricky one, and you shouldn't do it unless you really want to. I'm talking about oiled filters, like Amsoil or K&N. There is some risk of throttle body sensor damage associated with them (seen a few people complain about it, but majority doesn't have problems). Oiled filters have a higher air volume specs (Allow more air through), which supplies more air to your engine, thus ECU reduces amnt of gas it needs to mix.