Last post on Aug 13, 2013 at 5:42 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Impala
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Chevrolet Impala, Sedan
#13593 of 13621 Re: chevy impala 2000 [llovrien]
Nov 21, 2011 (6:20 am)
I don't think it is a big job to change the oil pan. But why would you need a new one? Did you bottom out the car on something and dent the oil pan?
Or do you live along the shore and salt water rusted it?
To remove the oil pan you have to remove 12 bottom bolts and 6 side bolts.
For safety you may want to disconnect the battery first. You will have to put the vehiclel up on ramps. You may need to remove the serpentine belt and belt tensioner. You may need to remove the front exhaust and Steering gear pinch bolt. Disconnect oil level sensor. Remove the starter and your hood. Remove the flywheel driveplate cover, remove the passenger side upper motor mount. Place a floor jack under the frame front crossmember, loosen cross member left side bolts. Remove the right side crossmember bolts. Remove the cranksahft pulley, and remove oil filter shield.
#13594 of 13621 Re: chevy impala 2000 [revjim64]
Nov 21, 2011 (3:15 pm)
Thank you for your help. I live in Wisconsin where we put lotsa salt on the highways. The pan is rusted and the bolt won't loosen up. Just preparing for the worst. Maybe the oil pan gasket can be replaced w/o doing the oil pan itself. It is a 2000 but just over 100,000 miles.
#13595 of 13621 Re: 2004 impala radio issues [kaatje03]
Dec 27, 2011 (5:48 am)
Your radio is fine. The problem is that the power cable to your factory amplifier has a corroded connection beneath your carpet that stems from a displaced seal beneath your windshield (We'll get to that in a minute).
The wiring fix is a simple do it yourself job so follow along. Remove the lower door trim from the front and rear passenger side door openings then remove the lower pillar trim between the doors. Untab the carpet along both doors and pull back. You will find a wiring harness that runs along the passenger side rocker. Open the harness directly below the pillar and you will find a one-into-two crimp orange wire splice that will be corroded. Repair this connection and while you're in there repair the other two crimps that consist of a one-into-two black wire connection and a one-into-three black wire connection. Repair them one at a time to avoid mixing up wires and be sure to use dielectric grease on your crimp connections and use shrink tube to seal them.
ROOT CAUSE: Displaced seal beneath the passenger side air inlet cowl directly below the passenger side wiper. These get blown out of place by pressure washing and allow water to cascade into your blower unit then down beneath your carpet.
REPAIR: Park your wipers in the up position and remove the key from the ignition. Unclip the passenger side wiper washer line and move it below the inlet cowl. Next, remove the two small push type retainers and the single larger screw out retainer from the inlet cowl.
Pull inlet cowl free and put it aside. Look down into the opening and you will find a displaced seal, and (I guarantee you) a very dirty, plugged cabin filter. Replace the cabin filter taking care to work it under it's large retaining tab to your right rear of the blower inlet.
Once the cabin filter has been replaced, clean the leading metal edge over the cabin filter (just beneath windshield) and the seal that fit's over it. Apply a healty dose of silicone adhesive to the thin opening of the seal and fit it back where it belongs above the cabin filter. Next, locate the water drain to your left and make sure that it is not plugged. Wait an hour or so for the seal to set and re-assemble.
Take care when washing your car to not put direct water pressure along the base of your windshield and the seal should stay where it belongs.
Good Luck, Jeff
#13596 of 13621 Flicking Speedometer
Mar 17, 2012 (5:40 pm)
Here is the issue I am currently dealing with. I have an 04 Impala with the 3.4 motor. It had (well still has) its entire gauge cluster go out. None of the gauges read correctly and I finally after 2 years ordered a "new" cluster to replace the wonky one. I know the stepper motors for this particular generation of Impala to be chronically faulty; indeed I think GM had several years of bad gauge cluster needles through out several models however, I don't think that is the issue here.
I replaced the entire cluster. Then while on the road traveling at highway speeds my wife commented that the car felt like it was driving funny and losing power. She said it would also randomly kick off the cruise control. I thought it was just because we were driving through the mountains and that is why the car felt like it was losing power... every time it would slip back into drive, the gearing was such it couldn't keep up. That was my theory until I drove it on the next leg of our 1400 mile trip. I noticed that the speedometer would flick like you had shut the car off and then turned it back on. The speedometer was the only gauge to do this. When it did this the cruise would kick off. Sometimes the needle would fall almost to 30 or 40 (from 75 mph) before kicking back on, other times it was just a few mph before coming back to the current speed.
I didn't think much of this as the car was acting normal otherwise. Then however I noticed as I was trying to go up a hill, I felt the car suddenly lose all power. It's hard to describe although as it continued to do this, I finally figured out it felt like it was hitting the speed limiter and the computer was shutting the car down. I've never hit the limiter in this car before as I think it's set somewhere north of 115 MPH and this car has a hard time getting to that point, however I have hit it in several other GM vehicles and this was the exact same sensation. Only it was doing it at 65-80 MPH. Usually under a heavy load like a pedal to the floor load. So the only thing I could think at the time was the new cluster. So when we stopped for the night, I swapped clusters back out to see if the old one would make the car exhibit the same symptoms. It didn't change. Again the only needle that would flick would be the speedometer (only this time it flicked the needle when it was pointing straight down at the steering column since the motors were stripped and this is where the needle was stuck at this point).
So it appears that the symptom is not related to the gauge cluster but rather something else. Would it be the speed sensor? And if so where is it? The other question I have is I changed unplugged them while the ignition was "hot" (key in the run position) because I needed the shift lever in first gear to remove the dash panel and the cluster. Would this have cause my issue and shorted something out? (Yes I know that was a fubar on my part, the battery should have been disconnected and yadda yadda). Now I am just trying to track what I need to fix and make sure I don't have any other major issues. I will note that after several hundred miles the symptoms decreased and we could finally use the cruise again for several miles. Until I hit hills again and put the motor under load and it would act up again occasionally hitting the "speed limiter" if indeed that is was it is doing. I don't know if that is what it is doing, but that is the sensation I get when it does its thing.
#13598 of 13621 Re: 2004 impala radio issues [kaatje03]
Oct 24, 2012 (6:14 am)
I had the same issue after I had water come in on the passenger side after a rainstorm. The factory amp is in the trunk and can be replaced much cheaper than the radio itself. Or if you know someone who is good at wiring have them bypass the amp, that is what I had done. The amp controls the power to the speakers, that is all that is wrong when you have display but no sound.
#13599 of 13621 Re: problems with impala 2004 ss wheels oxidizing and causing leaks in tires [impalaman1818]
Jan 26, 2013 (5:57 pm)
I know im super late...If problem is still happening, i have some knowledge for you. So place that you get air from have water in there hoses...I work at Discount Tire and i learned that chrome peal comes from water sitting inside tire and and the rim soaks it up and it warps and then some what explode. that what makes the come start coming apart from wheel and start tearing tire up
#13600 of 13621 2004 Chevrolet Impala LS 3.8L V6 - Coolant/Gas mileage Issues
Jan 28, 2013 (6:18 am)
#13601 of 13621 2004 Chevrolet Impala LS 3.8L V6 - Coolant/Gas mileage Issues
Aug 06, 2009 (10:06 pm)
As in the title of the post, I have a 2004 3.8L V6 Chevy Impala LS with approximately 110,000 miles on it.
Recently, while my girlfriend and I were taking the car for a drive, the car overheated (luckily as we were pulling into a parking spot at home); I checked the coolant level in the reservoir and there was none in the reservoir. I proceeded to put coolant into the car as instructed in the owner's manual (e.g. opening the bleed valve, adding 50/50 dexcool to the radiator until full, turning the car on to cycle, adding more, etc., filling the reservoir, etc., closing the bleed valve (maybe closing the bleed valve before filing the reservoir, I can't remember, but I know I followed the instructions in the manual.)) Since then, the car hasn't had any issues with overheating and the fluid level seems to be remaining pretty constant (or there hasn't been enough of a loss in the reservoir for me to notice).
However, since I refilled the coolant, I've noticed a severe drop in fuel efficiency. For example, tonight I filled up and compared gallons to miles on my trip meter and realized that since the last fill up I was only getting about 10.5mpg when normally, even in the worst stop and go conditions, I would expect around 18-21mpg.
I'm not sure that the empty coolant system and the fuel efficiency issues are related, however, it seems likely that they are since they sprung up around the same time. I guess it could be coincidence, but again, I think that's unlikely.
I've checked the oil which doesn't seem to show any indication of coolant/oil mixing (e.g. milky white color) and appears otherwise normal.
The climate controls in the car seem to be operating normally (e.g. both the heat and air conditioning operate and seem to normally heat up and cool down, respectively) without appreciably effecting the temperature of the engine.
I haven't check the fuel or air filters as of yet, but they haven't been changed in over a year.
The car seems to run just fine, that is, there don't seem to be any issues behind the wheel like rough starting, rough or loud engine noises while driving, or anything like that; or at least, the car seems to be running alright to me.
I haven't noticed any white smoke coming from the exhaust pipe and when I was running my car after I refilled the coolant, I didn't notice any bubbling over of the coolant reservoir or any bubbles forming in the coolant reservoir. (I think these are symptoms of head gasket issues).
I haven't really checked anything else and don't have any more information about the state that the car's in at this point.
So, my questions are:
What would cause a slow (almost unobservable) coolant leak and a drop in fuel efficiency? Does it seem plausible that these issues are related?
Could these be unrelated issues that popped up at the same time by coincidence? What could be causing either of the problems if they are unrelated?
What other symptoms should I check for to report back about? Or is there any other information that would be necessary to give at least a semi-educated diagnosis of the problem?
That's all I have for now. Thanks.
#13602 of 13621 Re: 2004 Chevrolet Impala LS 3.8L V6 - Coolant/Gas mileage Issues [cliponties]
Aug 23, 2009 (7:16 pm)
Hello, I have a 2003 Chevy Impala with 112,000 miles on it that is exibiting similar issues. It overheated on me in the fast food drive through a couple of nights ago and the radiator was very low on coolant. These cars are notorious for having coolant leaks around the intake manifold and heater hose outlet from the engine. The Dex/Cool attacks the gasket material causing internal and external coolant leaks and degrades the plastic block fitting in the bypass hose to the heater core. The leaks can easily ruin an engine and while not that difficult to fix, involve a lot of labor and consequently can run into over a grand to repair at a dealer. There was a class action lawsuit against GM where you could recover a portion of the repair bill for the Dexcoolant issue, but it ended last year in October.
I am in the process of isolating where the leak is coming from. I checked the coolant with a block tester and there are no combustion gasses present. The oil looks normal, but I had it changed today because I was worried the high temperature reached when it overheated may have caused viscosity breakdown. I use Mobil 1 synthetic high milage. The engine runs fine as do heater and a/c. The oil change guy said it was leaking from the passenger side, which is where the water pump and heater hoses are.
GM must have known they were going to have problems, because most GM cars with the 3.8 liter engine have a computer program in the engine management system that disables half of the fuel injectors and turns them into reverse air pumps to cool the engine when total coolant loss occurs. Taken from a GM service bulletin: If an overheated engine condition exists and the
messages COOLANT OVER TEMPERATURE and
REDUCED ENGINE POWER are displayed, along with
the Check Engine light, an overheat protection mode
which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent
engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss
in power and engine performance. This operating mode
allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an
emergency; you may drive up to 50 miles (80 km).
Notice: After driving in the overheated engine
protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage,
allow the engine to cool before attempting any
repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded.
Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and
reset the oil life system.
I am taking mine to a "GM Only" repair center this week to see if they can isolate the leak and get an estimate on the repair. I am very dissatisfied with our dealer's service department, as when the catalytic converter went out at 110,000 miles and cost us $2,200 in repairs, they were working right below the intake manifold and could have let us know that this was a potential trouble spot and recommended replacement of the intake gaskets at the same time. The convertor problem was a recall in earlier Impalas but is not covered anymore. No more GM cars for me! The poor milage condition could well be related, do you notice a fuel odor? A leaking intake gasket can play havock with the computerized fuel mixture controls.