Last post on Aug 13, 2013 at 5:42 PM
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Chevrolet Impala, Sedan
#13589 of 13621 problems with impala 2004 ss wheels oxidizing and causing leaks in tires
Nov 14, 2011 (7:55 pm)
I have a chronic problem. The fancy wheels in the ss all deteriorate and oxidize, flaking on the inside where they damage the tires by the beading and cause slow leaks. Aside from buying four new alloy wheels and new 17 inch tires every few years does anyone have this problem and a fix? My goodyear dealer said that we cannot replace them with cheaper 16 inch plain wheels and less expensive smaller tires because it can ruin the transmission. I have had no real problems for 100k but this is a frustrating issue. Any ideas wouls be welcome.
#13590 of 13621 Re: problems with impala 2004 ss wheels oxidizing and causing leaks in tires [impalaman1818]
Nov 16, 2011 (9:44 am)
The only fix I have seen is a company that will refurbish your rims if you can go without the car for a few days. You can switch to 16" wheels it will not damage your transmission but it will make the speedometer off by a few miles per hour. You would need to get the computer programmed by a Chevy dealer to account for the smaller rims and tires to make the speedometer accurrate. The same transmission is used for all 2004 impalas and the base and LS models both came with 16" wheels. Try a google search on alloy rim repair there maybe more than one option.
#13591 of 13621 Re: problems with impala 2004 ss wheels oxidizing and causing leaks in tires [impalaman1818]
Nov 17, 2011 (9:50 am)
Your goodyear dealer is an idiot. You can drop to a smaller size if you so wish, however the suspension may not like it. But you can do it so long as you keep the same overall height of the tire. If you do that, your speedometer will not be off.
But having the wheels refurbished would probably be a cheaper less expensive fix than a whole new set of wheels and tires.
#13592 of 13621 chevy impala 2000
Nov 19, 2011 (3:30 pm)
Is it a big job to change an oil pan? I am told it needs changing and have received prices up to $600. Any help would be appreciated.
#13593 of 13621 Re: chevy impala 2000 [llovrien]
Nov 21, 2011 (6:20 am)
I don't think it is a big job to change the oil pan. But why would you need a new one? Did you bottom out the car on something and dent the oil pan?
Or do you live along the shore and salt water rusted it?
To remove the oil pan you have to remove 12 bottom bolts and 6 side bolts.
For safety you may want to disconnect the battery first. You will have to put the vehiclel up on ramps. You may need to remove the serpentine belt and belt tensioner. You may need to remove the front exhaust and Steering gear pinch bolt. Disconnect oil level sensor. Remove the starter and your hood. Remove the flywheel driveplate cover, remove the passenger side upper motor mount. Place a floor jack under the frame front crossmember, loosen cross member left side bolts. Remove the right side crossmember bolts. Remove the cranksahft pulley, and remove oil filter shield.
#13594 of 13621 Re: chevy impala 2000 [revjim64]
Nov 21, 2011 (3:15 pm)
Thank you for your help. I live in Wisconsin where we put lotsa salt on the highways. The pan is rusted and the bolt won't loosen up. Just preparing for the worst. Maybe the oil pan gasket can be replaced w/o doing the oil pan itself. It is a 2000 but just over 100,000 miles.
#13595 of 13621 Re: 2004 impala radio issues [kaatje03]
Dec 27, 2011 (5:48 am)
Your radio is fine. The problem is that the power cable to your factory amplifier has a corroded connection beneath your carpet that stems from a displaced seal beneath your windshield (We'll get to that in a minute).
The wiring fix is a simple do it yourself job so follow along. Remove the lower door trim from the front and rear passenger side door openings then remove the lower pillar trim between the doors. Untab the carpet along both doors and pull back. You will find a wiring harness that runs along the passenger side rocker. Open the harness directly below the pillar and you will find a one-into-two crimp orange wire splice that will be corroded. Repair this connection and while you're in there repair the other two crimps that consist of a one-into-two black wire connection and a one-into-three black wire connection. Repair them one at a time to avoid mixing up wires and be sure to use dielectric grease on your crimp connections and use shrink tube to seal them.
ROOT CAUSE: Displaced seal beneath the passenger side air inlet cowl directly below the passenger side wiper. These get blown out of place by pressure washing and allow water to cascade into your blower unit then down beneath your carpet.
REPAIR: Park your wipers in the up position and remove the key from the ignition. Unclip the passenger side wiper washer line and move it below the inlet cowl. Next, remove the two small push type retainers and the single larger screw out retainer from the inlet cowl.
Pull inlet cowl free and put it aside. Look down into the opening and you will find a displaced seal, and (I guarantee you) a very dirty, plugged cabin filter. Replace the cabin filter taking care to work it under it's large retaining tab to your right rear of the blower inlet.
Once the cabin filter has been replaced, clean the leading metal edge over the cabin filter (just beneath windshield) and the seal that fit's over it. Apply a healty dose of silicone adhesive to the thin opening of the seal and fit it back where it belongs above the cabin filter. Next, locate the water drain to your left and make sure that it is not plugged. Wait an hour or so for the seal to set and re-assemble.
Take care when washing your car to not put direct water pressure along the base of your windshield and the seal should stay where it belongs.
Good Luck, Jeff
#13596 of 13621 Flicking Speedometer
Mar 17, 2012 (5:40 pm)
Here is the issue I am currently dealing with. I have an 04 Impala with the 3.4 motor. It had (well still has) its entire gauge cluster go out. None of the gauges read correctly and I finally after 2 years ordered a "new" cluster to replace the wonky one. I know the stepper motors for this particular generation of Impala to be chronically faulty; indeed I think GM had several years of bad gauge cluster needles through out several models however, I don't think that is the issue here.
I replaced the entire cluster. Then while on the road traveling at highway speeds my wife commented that the car felt like it was driving funny and losing power. She said it would also randomly kick off the cruise control. I thought it was just because we were driving through the mountains and that is why the car felt like it was losing power... every time it would slip back into drive, the gearing was such it couldn't keep up. That was my theory until I drove it on the next leg of our 1400 mile trip. I noticed that the speedometer would flick like you had shut the car off and then turned it back on. The speedometer was the only gauge to do this. When it did this the cruise would kick off. Sometimes the needle would fall almost to 30 or 40 (from 75 mph) before kicking back on, other times it was just a few mph before coming back to the current speed.
I didn't think much of this as the car was acting normal otherwise. Then however I noticed as I was trying to go up a hill, I felt the car suddenly lose all power. It's hard to describe although as it continued to do this, I finally figured out it felt like it was hitting the speed limiter and the computer was shutting the car down. I've never hit the limiter in this car before as I think it's set somewhere north of 115 MPH and this car has a hard time getting to that point, however I have hit it in several other GM vehicles and this was the exact same sensation. Only it was doing it at 65-80 MPH. Usually under a heavy load like a pedal to the floor load. So the only thing I could think at the time was the new cluster. So when we stopped for the night, I swapped clusters back out to see if the old one would make the car exhibit the same symptoms. It didn't change. Again the only needle that would flick would be the speedometer (only this time it flicked the needle when it was pointing straight down at the steering column since the motors were stripped and this is where the needle was stuck at this point).
So it appears that the symptom is not related to the gauge cluster but rather something else. Would it be the speed sensor? And if so where is it? The other question I have is I changed unplugged them while the ignition was "hot" (key in the run position) because I needed the shift lever in first gear to remove the dash panel and the cluster. Would this have cause my issue and shorted something out? (Yes I know that was a fubar on my part, the battery should have been disconnected and yadda yadda). Now I am just trying to track what I need to fix and make sure I don't have any other major issues. I will note that after several hundred miles the symptoms decreased and we could finally use the cruise again for several miles. Until I hit hills again and put the motor under load and it would act up again occasionally hitting the "speed limiter" if indeed that is was it is doing. I don't know if that is what it is doing, but that is the sensation I get when it does its thing.