Last post on Aug 13, 2013 at 5:42 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Impala
What is this discussion about?
Chevrolet Impala, Sedan
#13586 of 13621 2005 Engine Cradle Problems
Sep 30, 2011 (11:17 am)
Any info on why the engine cradle broke and took out my steering on my 2005 Impala would be appreciated. It also took out my rear motor mounts. I have been told that the welds broke and that the sub frame is missing bolts and hardware. I was told first that the bolts were not installed correctly and then that they were not installed at all. I bought this car in April 2006, as a certified used car from the Chevy dealership. The shop is trying to say that this car must have been in a major accident and that the repairs made were sub-par at best. I am trying to get GM to get this car fixed or replaced. The extended warranty will not cover repairs. The car was in the shop last year for some engine maintenance, new seals, new brakes and rotors turned, steering pump repairs and 4 new tires. It was inspected underneath and nothing reported. No accident. Has anyone else had this kind of problem with their 2005 Impala? I had no advance warning that this was going to happen while driving.
#13587 of 13621 Re: 2005 Engine Cradle Problems [ladytl_1]
Sep 30, 2011 (5:02 pm)
Did you check the Carfax before you bought it? It will indicate whether or not the car was in an accident or written off. Good luck.
#13589 of 13621 problems with impala 2004 ss wheels oxidizing and causing leaks in tires
Nov 14, 2011 (7:55 pm)
I have a chronic problem. The fancy wheels in the ss all deteriorate and oxidize, flaking on the inside where they damage the tires by the beading and cause slow leaks. Aside from buying four new alloy wheels and new 17 inch tires every few years does anyone have this problem and a fix? My goodyear dealer said that we cannot replace them with cheaper 16 inch plain wheels and less expensive smaller tires because it can ruin the transmission. I have had no real problems for 100k but this is a frustrating issue. Any ideas wouls be welcome.
#13590 of 13621 Re: problems with impala 2004 ss wheels oxidizing and causing leaks in tires [impalaman1818]
Nov 16, 2011 (9:44 am)
The only fix I have seen is a company that will refurbish your rims if you can go without the car for a few days. You can switch to 16" wheels it will not damage your transmission but it will make the speedometer off by a few miles per hour. You would need to get the computer programmed by a Chevy dealer to account for the smaller rims and tires to make the speedometer accurrate. The same transmission is used for all 2004 impalas and the base and LS models both came with 16" wheels. Try a google search on alloy rim repair there maybe more than one option.
#13591 of 13621 Re: problems with impala 2004 ss wheels oxidizing and causing leaks in tires [impalaman1818]
Nov 17, 2011 (9:50 am)
Your goodyear dealer is an idiot. You can drop to a smaller size if you so wish, however the suspension may not like it. But you can do it so long as you keep the same overall height of the tire. If you do that, your speedometer will not be off.
But having the wheels refurbished would probably be a cheaper less expensive fix than a whole new set of wheels and tires.
#13592 of 13621 chevy impala 2000
Nov 19, 2011 (3:30 pm)
Is it a big job to change an oil pan? I am told it needs changing and have received prices up to $600. Any help would be appreciated.
#13593 of 13621 Re: chevy impala 2000 [llovrien]
Nov 21, 2011 (6:20 am)
I don't think it is a big job to change the oil pan. But why would you need a new one? Did you bottom out the car on something and dent the oil pan?
Or do you live along the shore and salt water rusted it?
To remove the oil pan you have to remove 12 bottom bolts and 6 side bolts.
For safety you may want to disconnect the battery first. You will have to put the vehiclel up on ramps. You may need to remove the serpentine belt and belt tensioner. You may need to remove the front exhaust and Steering gear pinch bolt. Disconnect oil level sensor. Remove the starter and your hood. Remove the flywheel driveplate cover, remove the passenger side upper motor mount. Place a floor jack under the frame front crossmember, loosen cross member left side bolts. Remove the right side crossmember bolts. Remove the cranksahft pulley, and remove oil filter shield.
#13594 of 13621 Re: chevy impala 2000 [revjim64]
Nov 21, 2011 (3:15 pm)
Thank you for your help. I live in Wisconsin where we put lotsa salt on the highways. The pan is rusted and the bolt won't loosen up. Just preparing for the worst. Maybe the oil pan gasket can be replaced w/o doing the oil pan itself. It is a 2000 but just over 100,000 miles.
#13595 of 13621 Re: 2004 impala radio issues [kaatje03]
Dec 27, 2011 (5:48 am)
Your radio is fine. The problem is that the power cable to your factory amplifier has a corroded connection beneath your carpet that stems from a displaced seal beneath your windshield (We'll get to that in a minute).
The wiring fix is a simple do it yourself job so follow along. Remove the lower door trim from the front and rear passenger side door openings then remove the lower pillar trim between the doors. Untab the carpet along both doors and pull back. You will find a wiring harness that runs along the passenger side rocker. Open the harness directly below the pillar and you will find a one-into-two crimp orange wire splice that will be corroded. Repair this connection and while you're in there repair the other two crimps that consist of a one-into-two black wire connection and a one-into-three black wire connection. Repair them one at a time to avoid mixing up wires and be sure to use dielectric grease on your crimp connections and use shrink tube to seal them.
ROOT CAUSE: Displaced seal beneath the passenger side air inlet cowl directly below the passenger side wiper. These get blown out of place by pressure washing and allow water to cascade into your blower unit then down beneath your carpet.
REPAIR: Park your wipers in the up position and remove the key from the ignition. Unclip the passenger side wiper washer line and move it below the inlet cowl. Next, remove the two small push type retainers and the single larger screw out retainer from the inlet cowl.
Pull inlet cowl free and put it aside. Look down into the opening and you will find a displaced seal, and (I guarantee you) a very dirty, plugged cabin filter. Replace the cabin filter taking care to work it under it's large retaining tab to your right rear of the blower inlet.
Once the cabin filter has been replaced, clean the leading metal edge over the cabin filter (just beneath windshield) and the seal that fit's over it. Apply a healty dose of silicone adhesive to the thin opening of the seal and fit it back where it belongs above the cabin filter. Next, locate the water drain to your left and make sure that it is not plugged. Wait an hour or so for the seal to set and re-assemble.
Take care when washing your car to not put direct water pressure along the base of your windshield and the seal should stay where it belongs.
Good Luck, Jeff