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2005 and Earlier Chevrolet Impala

13620 messages,  Last post on Jun 02, 2013 at 7:08 PM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Impala, Sedan

    

Messages Page 1149 of 1363

#11477 of 13620 by drivinisfun

Feb 19, 2003 (8:39 am)

I am still in the process of selling my 2001 Impala LS. Have had some interested parties here and there but none have come close to an agreeable price. I still have plenty of time to sell the car, so we'll see.
 
I, for one, like the new '04 Impala SS but I think it is 3 years too late to market. The '04 SS would have been a killer car for Chevy to offer back in late '99/ early '00 because at the time Ford had just axed the '99 Taurus SHO sedan. A 240HP Supercharged Impala would have given the late Taurus SHO a complete run for the money. Today that is questionnable because even a '03 Accord with a normal aspirated V6 engine with 240HP can keep up with it and may be outrun it.
 
Chevy missed a golden opportunity by delaying the SS for so long. They had the hardware back then to make it possible....why hesitate so much?
 
I think the 5.7L V8 FWD Impala SS prototype was interesting but the torque steer and production costs issues put it in the back burner. How much is the '04 SS going to be?? $30K??? Insane!!
 
GM knows that the secret to its long term market success in the car arena is to go back to RWD platforms, so I hope that by 2006/07 the Impala goes back to RWD and offer optional V8 engines.
 
The current Impala is a terrific car, but GM in their wisdom, have not done much of anything to keep it fresh and appealing year after year. A 2003 Impala looks essentially the same as a 2000 Impala...see the problem??

#11478 of 13620 reply drivinisfun by pluto5

Feb 19, 2003 (8:53 am)

Not really, since they try to keep the sheet metal the same for at least five years to avoid the expense of retooling.
 
As long as Chevrolet retains the Corvette and leadership in auto racing they will have a performance image, and IMO they will never satisfy the die-hard performance fans who want RWD and lots of hp because of the pressure on oil prices, gov't regulations and the cost to redesign their vehicles in an uncertain market. Remember when Chrysler almost went out of business selling RWD cars? Just my opinion.

#11479 of 13620 by drivinisfun

Feb 19, 2003 (9:09 am)

I disgree Pluto. Daimler-Chrysler is making a move back to RWD as they phase out the current FWD LH cars. Detroit has always been known for RWD, large displacement engines, lots of HP in an affordable package. I don't buy the oil prices and goverment regulations argument...why? because of the proliferation of SUVs in the last decade. SUVs are the most fuel inneficient vehicles in the market, yet the vast majority of them don't have to pay Gas Guzzler taxes, including the new Hummer H2 which is a dressed up Chevy Suburban.
 
Bob Lutz has recognize the need for GM to recapture their role in the car performance arena and as a last minute resort they are importing the Australian Golden Monaro V8 Coupe and reselling it here as the '04 Pontiac GTO. The car is controversial but it is the move in the right direction IMO.
 
GM should capitalize in the utter market failure of the current Mercury Marauder and speed up the development of viable and superior RWD car platforms. The Marauder doesn't have the balls to live up to its name. Those 94-96 Impala SS continue to fetch very good resale values.
 
I am drooling over that sweet and sexy Chevy SS concept presented last month at the International Detroit Auto Show. GM can do it and they are showing willingness to go in that direction.
 
Furthermore, let the new '04 Chevy Malibu do the fight against its immediate FWD competition (Accord/Camry/Altima/Passat). The Impala is in a whole different class and GM should capita;ize on the success of the current FWD to bring back a "gotta have" RWD Impala sedan in the future.
 
Lutz, are you listening?

#11480 of 13620 Rattling Brake Problem Solved!! by b4z

Feb 19, 2003 (9:27 am)

Thanks to sunsession in the Intrigue thread.
 
I wonder how many ISS lube kits have been performed when it wasn't that at all?
 
Brakes - Rattling Noise
 
File In Section: 05 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 01-05-23-O11A
Date: February, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Rattle Type Noise Coming from Front of Vehicle
(Install Front Brake Caliper Service Kit)
Models:
2000-01 Buick Century, Regal
2000-01 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo, Venture
2000-01 Oldsmobile Intrigue, Silhouette
2000-01 Pontiac Grand Prix, Montana
This bulletin is being revised to remove Chevrolet Lumina from the Models
section and to update the condition information. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 01-05-23-11 (Section 05 - Brakes).
 
Built Prior to the VIN Breakpoints shown.
Condition
Some customers may comment about a rattle type noise coming from the front of
the vehicle. This noise usually occurs at vehicle speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph)
and while driving over bumps. The noise can usually be eliminated by a light
application of the brake pedal.
Cause
This condition may be caused by too much clearance between the front brake
caliper bracket and the caliper pins in the bottom of the bracket bores.
Correction
Install front brake caliper service kits to both sides of the vehicle using the
following service procedure. Each kit contains 2 pins, 2 boots, and 2 packets of
grease.
Service Procedure
      1.Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the
      Vehicle in General Information.
      2.Remove both the front tire and wheel assemblies.
      3.Hand tighten 2 wheel nuts to retain the rotor to the hub.
 
      4.Install a large C-clamp (2) over the top of the brake caliper and
      against the back of the outboard brake pad.
      5.Tighten the C-clamp until the caliper piston is pushed into the caliper
      bore enough to slide the caliper off the rotor.
      6.Remove the C-clamp from the caliper.
 
      7.Remove the caliper pin bolts (3) and discard. New bolts are supplied
      with the service kit.
      8.Remove the caliper (1) from the caliper bracket (2) and support the
      caliper with heavy mechanic's wire, or equivalent.
      9.Using a flat bladed tool or punch, carefully tap the caliper pin boots
      from the brake caliper bracket and discard.
      10.Remove and discard the bushings from the brake caliper bracket bores.
      Carefully insert a small screwdriver into the brake caliper bracket bore,
      then rotate and pull the bushing outward to remove.
      11.Remove the brake pads from the brake caliper bracket.
      12.Thoroughly clean the brake caliper bracket bores of all lubricant.
      13.Install the brake pads to the brake caliper bracket.
      14.Lubricate the brake caliper bracket bores. Divide the large packet of
      grease, P/N 18046532; put one-half packet into each bore.
 
      15.Lubricate the new caliper pin boots. Use the small packet of grease,
      P/N 18046645, only on the bottom internal threads (2).
      16.Install the new caliper pin boots into the caliper pin bores (3) on the
      bracket. Carefully tap boots into bores using a deep well socket or
      equivalent.
      17.Install the caliper over the rotor and onto the caliper bracket. Ensure
      that the caliper pin boots are not pinched.
 
Important :The leading caliper pin, or top pin, has a bushing as part of the
assembly. The trailing caliper pin, or bottom pin, is a solid design.
      18.Install the new caliper pin bolts (1). It is important to note which
      caliper pin is designed for the correct bore. The leading caliper pin, or
      top pin, has a bushing as part of the assembly. The trailing caliper pin,
      or bottom pin, is a solid design. Ensure that the bolt boots fit securely
      in the groove of the pin bolts. Be sure not to pinch or tear the boots. If
      the boots are damaged, they must be replaced.
      Tighten
      Tighten the bolts to 95 N.m (70 lb ft).
      19.Remove the 2 wheel nuts retaining the rotor to the hub.
      20.Repeat the above steps for the other side.
      21.Install both the front tire and wheel assemblies. Tighten the wheel
      nuts using the J 39544 kit.
      22.Lower the vehicle.
 
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
 
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
 
b4z--I just had this work done on my 2000. No More rattling. (Ken)

#11481 of 13620 reply drivinsfun by pluto5

Feb 19, 2003 (9:35 am)

I agree, importing the Monaro is a great idea. But if I wanted performance I would just go ahead and buy the 03 Covette, the best production sports car available IMO.
 
Most of the truck based SUVs will have to be redesigned to meet new safety regs and because fewer people will buy them with gas selling above $2. That will take lots of retooling. If GM and DC go to RWD they will essentially cede the sedan market to the asian manufacturers, leaving them to duel it out with the euros for a minor share, not a likely senario. You can believe Lutz is listening to the cash register.

#11482 of 13620 More opinions on 2004 SS by garyw

Feb 19, 2003 (10:31 am)

I agree with everyone that FWD and 240HP make for a great car and I still like the looks of the Imapala. Where GM screwed up is simple:
 
1. How can it take until summer for this model to be available when the supercharger has been out forever in the Bonny and Regal not to mention the upcoming GP. And they made essentially no cosmetics changes. Explain this to me Mr. Lutz
 
2. No major cosmetic changes. Not even HID lights to change the look from the LS. No three spoke steering wheel. Only the usual embroided logos and larger wheels.
 
3. Price - how can they expect to charge $3000 more for the SS. C'mon $32K for this package is a joke.
 
The sad part is that I still want because I love the Imapala look. However, you can add a dual exhaust tip and the 17" wheels to an 02 or 03 LS and walk away just as happy for a lot less. Or buy a used 1996 SS.
 
Just my 2-cents worth.

#11483 of 13620 b4z - brake rattle by bh0001

Feb 19, 2003 (10:43 am)

Hmmm...I wonder if that's what I'm experiencing with my '01 LS? Did you actually hear the rattle, or did you feel it in the steering wheel?
 
I have a rattle that developed about 1000km ago. I feel it in the steering, particularly when driving in the city. Sounds suspiciously like what you've described. I too thought it was the ISS needing another lube kit. Maybe I'm wrong?
Brad

#11484 of 13620 2001 Impala LS by ksport_cook

Feb 20, 2003 (4:11 am)

How can I tell the exact date of manufacture on my vehicle?

#11485 of 13620 Date of manufacture sticker (For Karman) by drivinisfun

Feb 20, 2003 (7:16 am)

To locate the date of manufacture sticker in your Impala, just open the driver's side front door and locate the sticker on the door's jamb near the lock mechanism.
 
The date will be shown in MM/YY, for example 4/01 for made in April 2001 and so forth. The sticker also tells you were the car was made. All Impalas are currently manufactured in Oshawa, Ontario Canada only.
 
If the sticker is missing from that location, reject the car as there is a possibility the car is salvaged or has severe accident repair.
I hope you didn't buy that overpriced Impala with accident damage.
 
E-mail me if you have any further questions.

#11486 of 13620 by drivinisfun

Feb 20, 2003 (7:18 am)

Also with your VIN serial number, any GM dealer in the US or Canada should be able to tell you the actual manufacture date of your GM vehicle.

Messages Page 1149 of 1363

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