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Sedans Oldsmobile Aurora Oldsmobile Aurora
5865 messages, Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 8:50 AM
You are in the Oldsmobile Aurora Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: brinwood (Dec 31, 2008 9:45 am) I have owned my '97 for over nine years and followed posts on Edmunds and other boards. I have never seen anyone report trans fluid life less than 100%. Are your tires/wheels balanced accurately? I had a vibration problem with a set of W-rated tires that were balanced at what I considered a reputable tire store. Because Auroras are very sensitive to tire balance and stiffness, I took my car to a front-end shop that has a Hunter road-force balance machine. Turns out road force was fine -- the measurements on my four wheel/tire assemblies ranged from 2 to 9; the shop guy said he had never seen such low (good) measurements. If the numbers are 27 or higher, they will remount the tires on the wheels to match high and low spots. The problem turned out to be bad balance -- one wheel/tire was off by 3/4 ounce. Hope this helps. Les
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Motor always starts instantly when engine is cold, also you can let it run for 30 seconds or a minute as long as you don't allow the engine to warm up much and it always starts instantly regardless of the elapsed time. However, if you go for a short drive, motor reaches operating temperature and you are away from the car for 20 min. to 2 hrs., it will then crank for 3 seconds to 7 or 8 seconds before it starts, after which it works fine. NOTE: crank shaft sensor, engine coolant temperature sensor, plugs and spark plug wires have been replaced with no change in this pattern of cranking. This was done within the last 3 weeks. The car has 137,000 miles on it, and works great when running.
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Replying to: dmphil (Jan 01, 2009 11:09 am) Les
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Hi folks, Long time, no post. Still have my black/black loaded Autobahn '98. 121k miles and still going strong (knock on wood). Had an alternator fail on the road in March of '07, and the less-than-competent (AAA-approved) mechanics, in replacing it, caused a number of issues (over-torqued lugs, warping the right front rotor, then the radiator leaked, tranny cooler line was also mangled, then the replacement alternator failed (under warranty, they replaced),and they screwed up the power steering pump and pulley... and then the r/f strut started rattling...). Got all of that stuff resolved, and the car is running fine now. I did have to replace my FPR again (that causes the "warm start" problem mentioned above). Only problem with my girl is cosmetic... the clear coat is failing on the roof and trunk lid (my car had to be buffed 2-3x due to paint overspray problems at a place next to my work, and one of the shops that did it also burned through the paint on the edges of the hood and the trunk). Latest minor quirk is the auto headlights not always coming on or staying on (everything's fine if I turn them on manually) - I suspect the sensor might be toast. Recharged the A/C last summer... Still hoping to drive the old girl for another winter next year (my "toy" is one of the modern Holden-designed and built Pontiac GTO's - which I drive mostly in the summer - the Aurora is the winter car). The GTO is nearly paid for, but I'd like to go for a little while with no car payments... although I suspect the wife will be wanting a Camaro 'vert when they come out, and I'll probably end up with a G8 GT at some point in the next 12-18 months... I don't think I can part with the Aurora, however (considering having a friend do a restoration... other than the paint, there's no rust on the body, just the frame)... |
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Replying to: blk97aurora (Jan 02, 2009 2:36 pm) Darrell |
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Thanks for your info. During that time, did your car start fast every time when it was cold? Also, did you ever have to replace the key or the tumbler/ If so, did this affect the starting problem? I have had a security alarm which shows up occasionally and then disappears. A mechanic seems to think it is probably the cause of the slow start when warm versus the problem being the fuel pressure . regulator. I tend to agree with the fuel pressure regulator being the problem. Darrell |
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Replying to: donnapaca (Nov 22, 2008 10:58 pm)
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Replying to: nlel (Jan 14, 2009 2:47 pm) I found that if you take off the emergency break, press hard on break petal and firmly hold in on the button (on shifter) , it will soon release. Don't just press it, you may have to hold for a short time. It works for a while that sticks sometimes, but will release after procedures I outlined. I have not had a chance to look further at lube points, but I think it relates to the safety feature that keeps you from shifting without pressing on break. I was hoping someone that has more experience with this issue would answer. I asked the former olds dealer service dept, however they did not seem to have experience with this problem. I have found someone belonging to this site generally have solved a lot of common problems. One I had was fuel door would no longer release by pushing fuel button on dash. I was advised to put one drop of 30 weight oil on plunger that releases door, that was 2 years ago, no problems. Good luck and I will advise if I have to dig further into this issue. Please let me know if this helps and also if you get any more information on this issue. Don |
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Replying to: blk97aurora (Dec 31, 2008 4:08 pm)
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Replying to: caristo (Jan 16, 2009 7:49 am) |
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