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Sedans Oldsmobile Aurora Oldsmobile Aurora
5865 messages, Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 8:50 AM
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My car is being weird. I have a 2001 Old's Aurora and have had this problems for months. The one mechanic thinks that it might be something to do with the security key. maybe once a week it will do this I put key in ignition and turn and nothing happens. All my gadgets come on and have even replaced the battery. I wait maybe at the most a minute try again and then it will start......???
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Replying to: aurand210 (Sep 09, 2008 12:05 pm) I'd do a search on this forum. Bet you are not the only one who has had this problem. Jack |
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I know you have to depress brake, however sometime the button will not press in to allow you to shift out of park. Where do you need to lube to keep the button from sticking. I have a 95 aurora. After depressing brake hard multiple times, I can eventually get the button to depress to allow shifting, but wanted to lube so I don't keep having this problem.
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My great running '97 Aurora has 121K on the odometer. The transmission fluid life indicator still reads 100%. Is this common or just my car? No other electrical problems or screwy readouts. The drive axles do vibrate above 68 mph; at least nothing else could be doing the vibes. front end is tight, wheels and tires balances, bearings good, (it keeps me from speeding) !
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Replying to: brinwood (Dec 31, 2008 9:45 am) I have owned my '97 for over nine years and followed posts on Edmunds and other boards. I have never seen anyone report trans fluid life less than 100%. Are your tires/wheels balanced accurately? I had a vibration problem with a set of W-rated tires that were balanced at what I considered a reputable tire store. Because Auroras are very sensitive to tire balance and stiffness, I took my car to a front-end shop that has a Hunter road-force balance machine. Turns out road force was fine -- the measurements on my four wheel/tire assemblies ranged from 2 to 9; the shop guy said he had never seen such low (good) measurements. If the numbers are 27 or higher, they will remount the tires on the wheels to match high and low spots. The problem turned out to be bad balance -- one wheel/tire was off by 3/4 ounce. Hope this helps. Les
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Motor always starts instantly when engine is cold, also you can let it run for 30 seconds or a minute as long as you don't allow the engine to warm up much and it always starts instantly regardless of the elapsed time. However, if you go for a short drive, motor reaches operating temperature and you are away from the car for 20 min. to 2 hrs., it will then crank for 3 seconds to 7 or 8 seconds before it starts, after which it works fine. NOTE: crank shaft sensor, engine coolant temperature sensor, plugs and spark plug wires have been replaced with no change in this pattern of cranking. This was done within the last 3 weeks. The car has 137,000 miles on it, and works great when running.
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Replying to: dmphil (Jan 01, 2009 11:09 am) Les
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Hi folks, Long time, no post. Still have my black/black loaded Autobahn '98. 121k miles and still going strong (knock on wood). Had an alternator fail on the road in March of '07, and the less-than-competent (AAA-approved) mechanics, in replacing it, caused a number of issues (over-torqued lugs, warping the right front rotor, then the radiator leaked, tranny cooler line was also mangled, then the replacement alternator failed (under warranty, they replaced),and they screwed up the power steering pump and pulley... and then the r/f strut started rattling...). Got all of that stuff resolved, and the car is running fine now. I did have to replace my FPR again (that causes the "warm start" problem mentioned above). Only problem with my girl is cosmetic... the clear coat is failing on the roof and trunk lid (my car had to be buffed 2-3x due to paint overspray problems at a place next to my work, and one of the shops that did it also burned through the paint on the edges of the hood and the trunk). Latest minor quirk is the auto headlights not always coming on or staying on (everything's fine if I turn them on manually) - I suspect the sensor might be toast. Recharged the A/C last summer... Still hoping to drive the old girl for another winter next year (my "toy" is one of the modern Holden-designed and built Pontiac GTO's - which I drive mostly in the summer - the Aurora is the winter car). The GTO is nearly paid for, but I'd like to go for a little while with no car payments... although I suspect the wife will be wanting a Camaro 'vert when they come out, and I'll probably end up with a G8 GT at some point in the next 12-18 months... I don't think I can part with the Aurora, however (considering having a friend do a restoration... other than the paint, there's no rust on the body, just the frame)... |
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Replying to: blk97aurora (Jan 02, 2009 2:36 pm) Darrell |
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Thanks for your info. During that time, did your car start fast every time when it was cold? Also, did you ever have to replace the key or the tumbler/ If so, did this affect the starting problem? I have had a security alarm which shows up occasionally and then disappears. A mechanic seems to think it is probably the cause of the slow start when warm versus the problem being the fuel pressure . regulator. I tend to agree with the fuel pressure regulator being the problem. Darrell |
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