Last post on Mar 23, 2012 at 2:08 PM
You are in the Oldsmobile Aurora
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Oldsmobile Aurora, Sedan
#1731 of 5876 The end of Oldsmobile
Sep 19, 2001 (5:51 am)
Yesterday was the last day that new Oldsmobiles were for sale in our area. Our local Chevy/Olds dealer joined what they say is now most Olds dealers in the buyout program. The last new Oldsmobile was not our 2002 Aurora (it was next to last), it was our 2002 Silhouette Premiere AWD. A truck came and took the last 6 new 2001 Oldsmobiles off the lot as part of the buyout. It looks possible that the 2002 model year may be the last, even though the most recent public info from GM says otherwise. I download the weekly production numbers from http://www.autonews.com and will keep an eye out for production drop-off. The next nearest Olds dealer is 40 miles away, so we are not likely to see many other 2002s in our area.
Sep 19, 2001 (2:00 pm)
In reply to JCY2K1--my final drive noise was at low speed while cruising through town--about 25 to 35 mph. I think that is the predominant problem mentioned in the service bulletin. They replaced the final drive gears as well as several bearings and I believe the 2cnd gear planetary set. It definitely did the trick. I was worried what they may screw up in the process, but couldn't find any problems. They had the car for 4 days, but it took longer because parts were delayed because of the terrorist attack. I suspect the job is probably a half day affair once parts are there. Being an ex GM engineer, I would be surprised if your higher speed noise would be the final drive, but you never know. Does it come and go with slight throttle pressure?
Also try putting it in 3rd (direct drive) gear to see if it may be the 4th-gear gear set. Also try neutral to see if it is engine speed related.I know my tires are very noisy at 80mph on certain road surfaces--much more so than is normally acceptable for touring tires--but since I normally love Michelin tires I'm not complaining. There may also be a ground-out condition with a heater or A/C hose--it's amazing how little it takes to telegraph noise into the cabin.
#1733 of 5876 TRANS NOISE (cont'd)
Sep 19, 2001 (2:11 pm)
Yes, tipsicobob-the noise is only apparent in a gas on or foot pressing the accelerator condition. Does this mean anything? The noise goes away as soon as I take my foot off the accelerator.
Sep 20, 2001 (3:14 pm)
Well that certainly eliminates the tire noise thought. Try d3 (3rd gear)at the same cruising speed--if that stops it, it definitely points to the 4th gearset--not the final drive. If it is still there, try putting it in neutral at the same speed, but rev the engine up to about the same rpm as when you hear the noise. If the noise is gone--it is definitely the trans and probably the final drive. If the noise appears in neutral, but with the engine revved up--it is an engine related noise--could be a lot of things such as an intake noise, an engine ground out, a camshaft belt noise etc. try those first.
#1735 of 5876 Of Darkness & Light
Sep 21, 2001 (7:28 pm)
Go to http://photos.yahoo.com/clairhardesty and see the 2002 Oldsmobile Aurora 4.0L at home. Look in car photos. My neighbors are probably a little confused, because from the outside, the car looks like the one that was here last week (save the chrome exhaust). GM has announced some great deals on new cars, so if you are tilting, go get one! Best wishes to all, stay resolute, stay safe, stay free.
#1736 of 5876 Dyno test / more power
Sep 22, 2001 (8:45 am)
I hope to get to a dyno in the near future to see what a K&N really does, and then how it does with my air box mods. So far the air box mod has done great with no problems with additional water intrusion on those rainy days. I'll keep you posted.
In addition, Granatelli Motor Sports offers a mass air flow meter for the Aurora 4.0 that is supposed to add some power due to lower restriction and it communicates differently with the computer. It sounds much like a chip improvement. They are going to fax me the dyno graph for the Caddy northstar. They don't have a graph for the Aurora. It's $250 bucks and is supposed to add 10+ HP at the rear wheels. Not bad if true. I'm not sure how this would work with a chip/computer upgrade if they ever became available. It is supposed to be really easy too -just the 3 screws that hold the sensor on and unclipping the electrical connection. The lower screw seems easy to lose. I don't have magician's hands, so I'll have the local mechanic help me out. It's a 10 minute job.
Check out Granatellimotorsports.com I hope I spelled that right.
#1737 of 5876 Does Your Aurora Need Therapy??
Sep 23, 2001 (7:52 pm)
I think my car needs a therapist. I have noticed that the car is VERY VERY VERY antisocial. It seems that the car refuses to be parked with the other cars in the lot and always seems to windup in a portion of parking lot by itself with no other cars around it. Sometimes, when it comes time to go to the mall it seems to get a little nervous about where in a potentially full parking lot it will be left. It also flat out refuses to go to malls during the Christmas shopping season.
Have you noticed any of these behaviors in your Aurora? Is it something that is genetic to the car??
#1738 of 5876 Dyno test / more power
Sep 23, 2001 (8:41 pm)
You may not get much performance increase in low end acceleration by adding the K&N or any other performance part. The PCM has torque management software that monitors the torque applied to the drive train. If the programmed torque limit is reached/exceeded the PCM will first retard ignition timing and then cut out cylinders to bring torque back under the limit. Depending on exactly what this limit is, you may not find much improvement in things like 0-60 times. At higher speeds where horsepower is more of a factor than torque, you may find a bit more improvement.
#1739 of 5876 100K spark plug replacent
Sep 24, 2001 (6:04 am)
Hello all! I have a 1995 Aurora and I recently turned 100,000 miles. I am very proud be a member of the 'high mileage' club. The vehicle still operates fantastically - smooth, and powerful and free of major squeaks or rattles. Anyhow, I am wondering what people have paid for plug & wire replacements. I would like to do it myself, but that rear bank of plugs looks tough to get to. Has anyone tried? If not, what did you pay for the service?
Sep 24, 2001 (10:56 am)
jimr97 - what you are describing sounds exactly like the traction control operation as described in the brochures. You can turn that off too. Anyway, I'm not talking about huge increases. My goal would be to get another 20 to 30 HP at the wheels by improving the exhaust, air induction, and perhaps trying the mass air flow sensor. I have my doubts that a micro tuner will ever be available for the northstars. I also realize that not all improvements yield their increase at the same point on the curve, so the totals might not really add up, but the total power throughout the acceleration does and that's what really counts anyway.
There was a guy on the Lincoln LS board that did a lot of dyno testing on his LS V8 and he basically confirmed the added power. I've talked to people who have had the cat-back put on an STS and they swear by the performance and basically confirm the HP claims.
I really hope to get to a dyno just to see what some indution improvements do. I'm hoping to see 5 more at the wheels. Anything more would be a bonus. Nothing radical, but I'm just trying to incrementally make it a little faster. I don't think that will overload anything. It would just have power similar to being between a stock SLS and an STS.