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Sedans Buick Regal Buick Regal
3453 messages, Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 8:24 AM
You are in the Buick Regal Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: Lithium_177 (Jan 25, 2009 10:01 am) When you say running temp of the car, do you mean the motor? or the passenger compartment? If you're saying the motor itself is hot and upper radiator hose stays cool until thermostat opens..., is radiator full -- not reservoir, the actual radiator. Leaks will often drop that level without using reservoir fluid to refill. Then the heater doesn't get proper flow. Is the heater core full of coolant? With radiator full and motor warmed thoroughly, run motor at 2500 rpm for 10 seconds, and repeat for total of 5 times. That should burp the heater air out. Then bleed the air at the thermostat housing if it has a bleeder screw on top. Are both heater hoses the same temp when motor is completely warm--with the blower on high. That's an indicator of enough flow. IF not heater core could be blocked by crud. Sometimes a cooling system flush will clear radiator chemically. But it's usually better to remove hoses and try to gently flush both directions with water being careful not to apply water line pressure to the heater from a garden hose. Is the water pump circulating properly. When motor is warmed up, does water move through the radiator when the motor is gunned. A few people have found worn paddles on the impeller that don't circulate enough. Usually overheating results. One person found the impeller was sheared off completely and just lying in there (he'd let the car freeze without antifreeze in coolant and pump apparently froze and twisted off impeller when car was started). Is the belt around the water pump in the proper direction? One person found a shorter belt had been used and the water pump was running the wrong direction--previous owner had replaced it in an emergency. Just trying to suggest things since I don't know how long you've owned the car or it's history of maintenance. |
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| Hi I have a 94 regal 3.8 with 102,000 kms on it, lately it shutters at times at low speed, almost like it isnt shifting out of everdrive... then when you ease off the pedal it seems to help. then it kicks back in gear or seems that way. the other day i was at at a red light, in drive with my foot on the brake, at it felt like someone nudged by back bumper, however no on was there... any help would be greatly appriecated. | |
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Replying to: Bushwack (Dec 09, 2006 7:16 pm) Based on all the forums, I have replaced the Crank Sensor, the Low Speed Idle Sensor and the battery. The battery and alternator conncections are clean and tight, and wiring connections to the ignition switch are okay (according to my brother who runs an Automotive Electric shop in Oxnard, CA. The MAF passes the "tap test", and is apparently okay. The Regal has sat in both shops for over a week each with engine running, stopping only occasionally. There are no error codes in the computer after the stoppage, so we have no idea why it stopped. It restarts immediately under the in-shop condition. The Regal runs nicely at freeway speeds. The stalling occurs upon deceleration at a traffic light or stop sign. I'm looking at the Regal sitting in my driveway wondering what to do with it. I'm into it for almost $500, and no closer to a solution than when I first started. Oh, one more thing: there is a torsion rod in the rear which somehow got bent, and the car was almost totally uncontrollable. It happened on a dark and stormy night when the only road home was wet and winding. It took 75 minutes to go 20 miles. No, I'm not convinced the 2000 Regal is the best of that breed, but I'm glad you've had good luck.
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Replying to: chris129 (Feb 19, 2008 11:45 am) I have totally lost confidence in my 2000 Regal as an Around Town car (it runs fine on the open road at freeway speeds).
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Replying to: bsamstag (Apr 14, 2009 1:57 pm) MAF sensors can also cause trouble. Some people suggest tapping on the body of it with a screwdriver handle and if the car changes speed or misses, you may have found the problem. A good test is substituting a known good one from another vehicle since many are the same part number. ALSO check the EGR. In fact, disconnect the EGR, will set a code, and drive it a while when it's in the shutting off mood. I've seen reports of sticking EGRs. Must have been a bad supplier. If the EGR sticks open the car gets too must exhaust gas back through and runs rough. At high speed a sticking EGR may not make a difference. I'm not sure what you mean by low speed idle sensor. I suspect it's the IAC, idle air control, that lets air past the butterfly to control the idle speed. Did they clean the throttle body? It gets covered with a black goop and may lead to the butterfly sticking when you first start the car; you have to press hard on the accelerator to get it to open. Many cars have this problem. It's cleaned with with solvents. Often the IAC gets gooped up too. Cars with lots of short trips and starts may do this more. I'm betting on the EGR, if I were a betting man. But I do wish you luck in diagnosing. It really takes a TEch II or scan tool that reads out in real time connected while driving to see what parameter went wrong when the car stalls. Your local mechanic may not have that tool. The dealer does.
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Apr 14, 2009 2:18 pm)
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Replying to: k8yse (Apr 14, 2009 3:56 pm) There are several things to try to check to find a problem like he's having. The FPR leaks fuel through itself into the vacuum line that controls it. When the car has been running and shut down, pull off the vacuum line and see if there's raw fuel in the line. There shouldn't be. Note that occasionally the FPR failure can cause fuel ignition inside the upper intake manifold which splits it with the pressure (explosion like a backfire). There were recalls on some years for the FPR.
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Apr 15, 2009 3:49 am) |
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Replying to: k8yse (Apr 14, 2009 3:56 pm)
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Replying to: bsamstag (Apr 15, 2009 12:03 pm) For a car to run there has to be air, fuel and spark. When a car won't run, we check for spark using at worst a screwdriver stuck in a plug wire and held close to a ground on the motor while the car is cranked. If no spark then troubleshoot ignition. If a car won't start we check for fuel. The fuel pressure can be checked at the fuel rail (on the FPR? by screwing on a gauge). The injector can be checked by unsnapping the electrical connection and putting in the leads from a 194 or 197 lightbulb used in running lights on cars. If it clinks, the injectors are being opened by the electronics on the car. If the car is running poorly a Tech II computer is connected to see which parameter is askew and then find what causes that which can be something far removed from that symptom.
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