Last post on Sep 21, 2013 at 10:39 AM
You are in the Buick Regal
What is this discussion about?
Buick Regal, Sedan
#3367 of 3508 Re: 1999 GS smoke under hood [gsboost]
Oct 04, 2007 (9:14 am)
Valve cover gaskets leaking seem to be a common GM product problem. I had a 1988 Chevy Celebrity that starting leaking at 30,000 miles and it was 8 years old at that time. I drove it another 10 years with out ever replacing the gasket. My 1997 Regal, which I bought last year with only 42,000 miles on it, starting leaking about two months after I purchased it. The Celebrity had one gasket and oil never leaked on the manifold. The Regal has two, front and back. The front will leak onto the exhaust. The cost to pay a garage to replace the front gasket is cheaper, because there is less time involved getting to it, than the back gasket. I am hoping to run this Buick as long as I was able to run that Chevy, but I am afraid that I may have to replace the gasket, it is a fire risk. Maybe I'll just buy a fire extinguisher. Easier on the wallet.
#3368 of 3508 Buick Regal Keyless Entry Problems.
Oct 04, 2007 (9:27 am)
My remote started acting like it needed a new battery. So, I replaced it. Now, I cannot get the remote to do anything. At first, after installing the new battery, I could get the three beeps that indicated that the remote was reset, but the buttons were still not responding correctly. I tried the spare remote and it was not working as well as it should. I put a new battery in it and I cannot get the three beep reset. Any ideas what could be wrong? All the buttons had been working, just had to be right at the car to get them to work, before I installed the new batteries. The dealer wants like $60.00 just to put it on the computer to see if it is some sort of module. Could my keypads just be worn out? The car is a '97. Has anyone else had this problem?
Oct 04, 2007 (12:15 pm)
I don't know if they're the same as my 98 LeSabre but once of twice it got out of synchronization. The service manual said to hold down the lock and the unlock buttons for several seconds at the same time near the car. The horn would beep and voila we'd be back working again.
#3370 of 3508 Re: Remote [imidazol97]
Oct 05, 2007 (1:11 am)
Went to GM dealer yesterday. I was told that it couldn't be the remotes, it had to be a "module or something within the car". Estimated cost, just to put it on the computer to check out what the problem "might" be, $60. Then I would have added expense in fixing whatever they might find. Schedule a service appt. Thought about it most of day. I went to a Ford dealership a few streets from my home. Explain the problem, this guy pulls out a little tester gadget and tests my remotes. As it turns out, my lock and unlock buttons are not responding. They are wore out. The car is a '97. Since these buttons are not working, I can not reset the remote after installing a new battery. I have to ask myself, why wouldn't my Gm dealer, where I bought the car, had not thought to test the remotes first. I called my GM dealer and told them that I had the remotes tested and to order me a new remote. I know that I am not a mechanic and I am a woman, but common sense was telling me the car was working fine up until the battery change, and up until that point I would have to push the buttons in certain areas to get them to respond. It wasn't that I needed a new battery, the remote buttons were not making contact. I would have had wasted money on the dealer running a computer check and still would have ended up buying a new remote. It just bothers me that I had to go to a Ford dealership to resolve this problem. I have been a Chevy owner for over 27 years. My first car was a Ford, nothing but problems.
#3371 of 3508 Re: Remote [daisy14]
Oct 05, 2007 (4:42 am)
Replacement remotes with the same FCC number and GM number on back are available on the internet. Check price.
You may be able to repair.The remote pops open using a coin or screwdriver to carefully open it. The keypad you push is a rubber layer with rubber buttons that stick up through the hard top of the remote. The back of those button have a conductive material that touches copper layers on the top of the circuit board under them and shorts between the two circuits there. That's what makes the remote operate. Lightly wipe those contacts on the circuit board with a clean cloth with rubbing alcohol. It make take off the gooey stuff that accumulates there on touchpads made like that.
I fixed my Panasonic phone handsets the same way when the "three" button quit working unless you pushed several times to make contact. It was hard to take apart however...
If your remotes don't work, try that on one.
Remote seller google search
It's the FCC ID number that needs to match the on on your remotes. If you have remotes that have a large #1 or #2 on the back for memory seats and mirrors on your car, you will have to have the dealer or someone with a Tech II computer connect to the car to program them.
#3372 of 3508 Re: Remote [imidazol97]
Oct 05, 2007 (8:20 am)
Notice the black gummy stuff around the top two contacts for unlock and lock. There seems to be a lubricant or a breakdown of the plastic rubber around the buttons that goops up the contacts. I already wipe these with a dry cloth while I had it open.
I wouldn't clean the button side unless the contact cleaning doesn't work. I'm hoping you can get your old ones working and just don't pickup the replacements at the dealer or ask for your money back.
#3373 of 3508 Remotes - continued
Oct 06, 2007 (2:09 am)
My remotes have no gunk inside of them, they really look like new inside. The remotes for my car only lock/unlock doors and trunk, no mirrors or anything. I have already tried cleaning them. Still won't work. Thanks for all the suggestions and help, though. I guess I will just have to get a new one.
#3374 of 3508 low coolant light, no heat
Oct 12, 2007 (9:49 am)
i have a 91 buick regal with the 3.8 l engine and the low coolant light wont go off and the heat will not work, it does not appear that the engine is overheating or anything severe, but heat would be nice. I figure the thermostat is where i should start, but any input would be greatly appreciated
#3375 of 3508 Re: low coolant light, no heat [whoodiwhoo]
Oct 12, 2007 (9:53 am)
Check the coolant level in the radiator. When coolant level goes low, now coolant flows through the heater.
Oct 12, 2007 (1:19 pm)
I have 140,000 mi on my 94 Regal. A friend on mine said I need to replace the timing chain. The car runs great with no problems. He, my friend, said all cars should have the timing chain replaced at 90,000 mi.. Would anybody have any info. on this, or should I let it go? I would hate to be on the highway and the car stops running.