Last post on Sep 21, 2013 at 10:39 AM
You are in the Buick Regal
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Buick Regal, Sedan
#3251 of 3508 Re: Used Buying Advice 2000 BUICK REGAL LS [bisan]
Jun 24, 2006 (9:10 am)
Take off the oil cap and look underneath. If you see any sludge, then odds are the car wasn't maintained properly (i.e. oil changes not performed at the correct intervals). I wouldn't be concerned of the brakes. If you need new rotors, so be it. Chances are if they are OEM, after 98,000 miles it's time for fresh rotors.
The engine block has a great reputation for reliability. But confirm there are no fluid leaks - especially from any gaskets. A gasket may cost only a few dollars to replace, but you can count on hours of labor to make the replacement.
Lastly, GM's version of coolant (Dex-o-Cool???) is known to cause blockage if not flushed before its recommended 5 yr/150,000 change. When I owned a Regal GS, I flushed and filled the radiatior after 3 yrs/37K miles. Per the mechanical at the time, he said it was a good thing I did. He showned me noticeable sludge/sediments in two hoses I was having replaced at the same time. I could only imagine how the radiator looked if there was some sludge in the hoses.
#3252 of 3508 Re: Used Buying Advice 2000 BUICK REGAL LS [jipster]
Jun 26, 2006 (10:14 am)
Thanks for the posts jipster and Bushwack.
I will be sure to note the items you mentioned should I go forward with an inspection on the car.
#3253 of 3508 Supercharger Oil?
Jun 26, 2006 (5:58 pm)
My 2000 Buick Regal GSE has about 65,000 miles on it, a friend suggested that since I've been faithful about changing the oil every 3k miles, that I should also change the supercharger oil? My service book has no suggestions as to how this should be done, any suggestions? Thanks!
#3254 of 3508 Supercharger Oil
Jun 26, 2006 (7:10 pm)
Here is what I do to change some of the fluid. I use a turkey baster. Make sure it has a small opening so it can fit in the hole of the supercharger. You will need an allen wrench set to get the cap off. The old fluid has a very pungent odor, so be aware. The fluid is available at most GM dealers, but I do not know how much it costs. I check mine about every six months and end up removing some of the fluid. The owners manual that I have does say to check it every 36K miles, and add if necessary. It says nothing about changing it. Oh one more thing, the supercharger is full of fluid when the oil is at the bottom of the threads for the cap. DO NOT DO THIS ON A HOT ENGINE, make sure it is cold.
#3255 of 3508 Re: Supercharger Oil [bporter1]
Jun 27, 2006 (5:14 pm)
Thanks so much, I'm going to give it a try.
#3256 of 3508 Oil Changed and Oil Light Comes On
Jul 01, 2006 (5:38 am)
I just had my oil changed on my 1996 Buick Regal, and now the oil light has come on. The one that's red when it lights up and looks like a dripping oil canister? Any suggestions what's causing this? Thanks.
#3257 of 3508 Re: Oil Changed and Oil Light Comes On [tjbrook1974]
Jul 01, 2006 (8:12 am)
If the light stays on you need to get it checked out by mechanic asap. Per owners manual, "This(light)indicates that oil is not going through your engine quickly enough to keep it lubricated."
Of course the first thing to do is check your oil level. I've read of instances where oil change techs have forgotten to tighten the drain plug, as well as install new oil after draining out the old.
#3258 of 3508 Oil Pan Gasket
Jul 05, 2006 (7:48 pm)
I bought a 99' Regal LS (96k miles)today for $3600. The mechanic told me there was minor oil plan gasket leakage. The part costs $50 and labor is $375. ($425 in total). Is the price reasonable? Shall I have it fixed right now? It is my first car and I have no idea about the oil plan gasket.
Thanks in advace!
#3259 of 3508 Re: Oil Pan Gasket [jjww]
Jul 07, 2006 (3:44 pm)
One would think all one needs to do is remove the dozen or so bolts holding up the oil pan and install a new gasket, right? But I checked my Haynes manual and, no, there appears to be much more to the job.
It calls for the removal of something called the driveplate inspection cover and starter, if necessary, to disconnect the electrical connector from the oil level sensor; and to disconnect the engine torque strut; and to disconnect the exhaust pipe and catalytic converter from the engine; and to disconnect the pipes leading to the oil cooler; well, there's more, but do I need to go on?
So, yeah, looks like the labor charge is reasonable. As far as getting it fixed right now, well, I guess that depends on how often you need to add oil (keep a log).