Last post on May 04, 2012 at 8:07 AM
You are in the Buick Regal
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Buick Regal, Sedan
#132 of 3506 change spark plugs
Dec 09, 2000 (6:05 pm)
I have a 1994 Buick Regal, 4 dr sedan , V-6. I have over 30,000 miles and it is time to change the spark plugs. The front spark plugs on the V-6 are relatively easy to get out and replace. However the rear spark plugs require that the air cleaner be disconnected and the engine rotated forward and locked in place which makes it easy to remove and install the rear spark plugs. My problem is I do not know how to rotate the engine. Does anyone out there know how this is done? Do you need a special tool to do this? On my Olds Cutlass you needed a crowbar to be inserted in a cylindrical opening and then after the rotating the engine forward you placed a bolt into two holes that held the engine in position but I can not find anything similar on the Buick. There has to be some secret to it. Help please. Thank you.
#133 of 3506 coalcracker
Dec 09, 2000 (6:09 pm)
What does your owners manual say? Any access to a shop manual? First I've heard of "rotating" a motor. Have to disconnect the trans?
#134 of 3506 coalcracker
Dec 09, 2000 (6:29 pm)
My service station, a local Firestone, sending coupons every month to everybody around. One of the coupons is for maintenance tune-up. Spark plugs (Bosch) and, I believe, injector cleaning.
The price is $50 for "most" 6-cyl., but $75 if the V-6 engine is transverse mounted. Extra for platinum plugs, A/C interference. Plus fee and tax.
In other words, the transverse engine requres somewhat like 30 minutes of extra labor for skilled mechanics, who are doing the job every day.
That is all I know.
#135 of 3506 To #133 (jackjt)
Dec 09, 2000 (7:16 pm)
We bought a new GS back in August. At the time our salesman said he highly recommended getting the extended warranty (GMPP). We followed his advice, only for the "peace of mind" it afforded us. I too have heard that the SC 3800 Series II engine is pretty much "bulletproof" (if you take care of it), but we still didn't want to risk it.
#136 of 3506 jackjt, jpstax
Dec 09, 2000 (11:45 pm)
We bought a GS this fall. No extended warranty currently, but we think about bying one before the standard manufacturer 36k miles/36 month warranty will expire. Bought an extended warranty for our other car, the 98 Chevy Malibu.
To the best of my understanding, the GM V-6 engines and transaxles are very reliable. Possibly, the best in the world. Or in the top ten... I would not expect a lot of problems in this department.
But there is a lot of other parts in the modern cars, which can fail. All this modern electronics everywhere, speakers, air condition, power everything, etc., etc.
The automotive parts are rather expensive now. And, even when cheap, they are densely packed and often interconnected. For example, it takes $500 in labor to replace a #25 heater core. The particular example is with 88 Ford Taurus, but the general tendency is common with all modern cars.
For this reason, I consider buying the extended warranty, but only of the "bumper to bumper" kinds.
As to peace of mind, well, I agree.
The warranty / insurance companies cover the same repairs, and, in addition, bear the sale expenses and the service expenses. They also have to make a reasonable profit after all the expenses.
It ought to be less expensive, to pay for all repairs myself. In other words, to self-insure. In average it would pay. In average, and in long-term, with all cars my wife and I have now and will have in future during all of our life.
But we are not in insurance business. We prefer the peace of mind. It let us concentrate on our work, instead of, techno-speaking, "managing liquid cash reserves set aside for car repairs".
Dec 09, 2000 (11:49 pm)
$25 heater core, not #25
#138 of 3506 Extended Warranty
Dec 10, 2000 (5:40 am)
This is my opinion and my opinion only but an extended warranty is a waste of money unless you plan on keeping the vehicle for 100,000 miles or you have no confidence in your vehicle.I wish I had all the money back for extended warranties that I purchased and never used.They never gave me anything extra when I traded off a vehicle where the extended warranty was still not used up.I finally got wise and quit buying them and have never needed one.The reason a new car salesman pushes you so hard to buy the extended warranty is that he gets a piece of the pie.Extended warranties offered by new car dealers are negoitable as I have had friends get them to knock off $300 on them.I bought a new 91 Ford Ranger XLT and the salesman told me all kinds of horror stories and begged me to buy the extended warranty.I refused and today at 106,000 miles it has never had any problems at all.If by chance we do buy a lemon its gone before its out of factory warranty such as was the case with a lemon 94 Dodge Intrepid we purchased new.I can handle all the small jobs such as waterpumps,alternators,brakes,belts,hoses,etc. myself.After I got married in 1980 I quit most of my hotrodding and have never lost a motor or tranny in (20) years and thats probably 600,000+ miles of driving mostly Buick Regals.We have a 91 Regal Limited thats never had any problems in 121,000 miles other than brakes and the drivers power window at 110,000 miles.If I do lose a motor or tranny with a car thats out of warranty we will fix it and probably trade it off if my trust in it is gone.We have (5) liscensed vehicles so have something to drive if one goes down.When you only have (1) vehicle an extended warranty might be more important.
#139 of 3506 my baby is sick
Dec 10, 2000 (7:51 am)
Well today we went Christmas shopping (a little early for me, but what the heck) and after getting into the car after shopping, the key wouldn't go into the ignition. I giggled the steering wheel and checked the shifter, nothing worked. The key would go halfway in and wouldn't go any further. Tried the spare key but the same thing. Finally the key went into the ignition and the engine wouldn't start, didn't even turn over or make a noise. I checked the owners manual and it said if the theft detection system detects something it may take up to three minutes before letting the engine start. So we waited and still the same. Checked all the fuses, disconnected the battery cable to reset the computer, still dead. The battery was fully charged so that wasn't the problem. The starter wouldn't even make a noise while the key was turned all the way, just the various lights came on in the dashboard. I guess something in the ignition switch where the key goes broke. I was not a happy guy. While standing there in the freezing cold I watched as different people hopped into their cars and drove away. It was kind of depressing watching someone get in a '80 Pinto and see it start right up and zoom away while I stood next to a four year old dead Buick. I had it towed to the dealership but they are closed till Monday. I hope it isn't too expensive. I'll keep you guys posted.
Dec 10, 2000 (4:26 pm)
Hopefully it's just the starter or something even less $$$$taxing! Let us know.
And thanks everyone for weighing in on those extended warranties!
We are bracing for allot of snow here in the mid-west(6 to 12")so the 01GS just sits in the garage;-(
#141 of 3506 obyone(spark plugs)
Dec 10, 2000 (5:39 pm)
I do not have a shop manual and there is nothing in the manual that comes with the car. From my previous Olds Cutlass Supreme, the whole engine rotated after you disconnected the air cleaner. There was enough slack in all the wires and hoses to allow this. I don't see how you can conveniently get to the rear plugs without rotating the engine. The transaxle rotates with the engine since it is an integral part of the engine.