Last post on Dec 12, 2013 at 12:22 PM
You are in the Nissan Maxima
What is this discussion about?
Nissan Maxima, Sedan
May 21, 2003 (6:07 am)
I wasn't really trying to start a "my Maxima is quicker than your Maxima" debate. But since you asked, here is my summary:
1995 Maxima SE w/ 190 hp/ 205 ft lbs mated to a 5-speed manual was generally tested at 6.6-6.7 seconds 0-60. Why subsequent 4th generations (96-99) were tested slightly slower is beyond me. They added a little weight to the 3,001 lbs of the 1995 model year, but not significantly so.
2000/2001 Fifth generation Maxima's seemed slower to me. I test drove one just about every time I had my Maxima in for service and came away unimpressed. The 222 horsepower / 217 lb torque rating was through "tweaking" the same 3.0 liter engine as in the 1995. I was always suspect of the real power increase. The actual weight gain, however, could not be disputed. I believe the 2000/2001 was tested at around 7.0-7.2 0-60 for the 5-speed, considerably slower for the automatic.
The 2002/2003 SE 6-speed is quicker and faster than the 1995. Not significantly noticable from 0-60, as I believe it was tested at around 6.3. But I noticed that it continues to pull stronger at highway speeds, assuming you have it in the optimum gear. On the other hand, the 4-speed automatic version of the 2002/2003 absolutely did not feel as quick to me as my 1995 5-speed. Perhaps I'm just used to the quick start afforded by a manual transmission. Or perhaps the cars I tested had not been fully broken in. But there is no way I would trade the quickness and responsiveness of my 1995 5-speed for a 2003 automatic. Consider that my opinion, not a statement of fact.
One thing was clear to me in driving the 2003 Maxima 6-speed. Any more power is a waste of effort in a FWD platform. In spite of LSD, the car could not put it's power to the pavement effectively and the torque steer was unbearable. Again, perhaps I'm biased by my Honda S2000 that, with almost no torque, will significantly outaccelerate the Maxima. Same, however, for the less powerful, RWD, 330ci. Congrats to Nissan for taking FWD sedan performance about as far as anyone can with the 2003 Maxima 6-speed. If you want more, look to Infiniti, BMW or another RWD direction.
#6895 of 8985 TSB info
May 21, 2003 (8:45 am)
Actually any questions you have related to any TSBs can be answered right here in the Town Hall. Check out the discussion at this link: Technical Service Bulletins
May 21, 2003 (12:07 pm)
I have not posted lately and wanted to get some feedback.
I have a 2000 GXE (yes, one of the 5% ever made!) with 87,000 miles on it. I generally commute about 120 miles/ day on the highways of NH. Everything was going along fine when my "Check Engine Light" came on last week.
-One of the spark plugs blew out (I thought that they were scheduled for a 105,000 mile change?)
-Faulty Ignition Coil (took care of this bizarre knocking/tinny sound that I have had for about 50k miles that no one could figure out)
-Replaced Timing Belt
I hope that the problems are solved. Anything else I should be on the lookout for? These are the first problems I have ever had and I was hoping to keep this car for another 50k (at least).
Tire discussions: I replaced my originals with Michelin MXV4 Plus'. They are GREAT in NH snow.
Gas Dicussions: I attempt to use the Sunoco Ultra94 to reduce the engine knocking as much as possible.
May 21, 2003 (1:46 pm)
Replaced timing belt? I thought the 2000 Maxima had a timing chain (i.e. doesn't need to be replaced).
I had virtually no repairs (other than routine maintenance, tire replacement, etc.) for the first 7 years & 115,000 miles on my 1995 Maxima. In the 25k miles since then, I've had to replace the starter ($500+/-), water pump ($500 +/-), tempurature sensor ($150 +/-), and a couple of other minor items items. Overall, still very good for nearly 140k miles. Engine power is still great and I consistently get 28-30 mpg on the highway.
I would suggest that if you had knocking going on for 50k miles, you consider having the engine checked out by a mechanic. If it's O.K. another 50k miles for you shouldn't be a problem, especially given that you drive a lot of highway miles.
#6898 of 8985 '01 SE Brakes, (auto trans) / '00 time belt?
May 21, 2003 (3:04 pm)
Hello all. First, to pathtomax - your max does not have a timing belt. It is a timing chain and should not have to be replaced for way over 87,000 miles.
OK, now re: my brakes - had the TSB on the rotors done, no questions asked at around 21,500 miles. I asked what will happen when they warp again in another 8K or so? Service said they will replace before the warranty is up if that happens. Fine. That was around 2,000 miles ago. Now, I have a scraping , crunching kind of noise after the brakes are heated up and the brake petal is half way pressed. The sound coinsides with the wheel turning, like there is a high spot somewhere. It's weird and definatly not right. Service also told me on the initial brake "visit" that my rear pads were 70 to 80% used up while the fronts only 40% or so. I am going to let service know that they should give me new pads as this shows me that there is some problem with the rear brakes which should not wear faster than the fronts. Do you agree so far? One more thing - all 4 calipers have surface rust on them. Looks crappy. Is this common on these cars?
Going in for all this Friday. By the way, other than these brake issues and the TSB on the front end part a while back, the car has really been great. Thanks much for your input.
#6899 of 8985 Pathtomax - Service Engine Soon Light
May 21, 2003 (3:30 pm)
It may be helpful to note what Diagnotic Trouble code was stored in your Max's ECM.
My SES indicator lit up on my vehicle approximately 6 months ago. The engine ran smoothly and I did not detect any difference in mileage or performance. Thinking that it was a loose gas cap or that it was due to heavy traffic conditions (prolong idling), I disconnected the battery for 2 minutes to turn SES light off.
It lit up again shortly thereafter and I reset the light again. However,I did notice that this time, the car was prone to stalling only when depressing clutch and letting up on the gas.
I knew that there was definitely a problem and brought it in to the dealer (SES light remained off). They put it on the OEM Diagnostic machine , however, no DTC codes were stored in the car's ECM control module. They performed a Idle Relearn Procedure and readjusted the idle a bit higher.
The light went on again 4 days after getting the car back from the dealer. This time they told me that a P0420 was stored on the ECU. Although this indicates a problem with the 3 Way Catalyst, they attributed the MIL indicator to a problem with the car's original ECM program. They updated the car with a new ECM program under Nissan TSB NTB00070 and sent me on my way. No other problems have been detected although it ghas been only one week.
I am aware that a TSB (NTB01059) is out for a Code P1320. This was released to correct faulty coils. This code was probally obtained on your car.
Vanbo: I have always noticed a fine surface rust on the rotors after a day or two, especially when the humidity is high. I don't think that this is harmful since this quickly wears aways after braking a few times. However, the roughness can be quite noticable until it wears away. I think that its really more susceptable on Maximas than on any other car that I have owned. Maybe it's caused by the quality of the steel used in the rotor?
Good luck on getting your brakes cvered under warranty. BTW. Is warranty up on time or miles?
May 21, 2003 (6:12 pm)
it is my experience that there's always rust forming on the rotors on my maxima.... if the car sat there even for a day.... but after driving for a lil bit, the rust is gone...
can others confirm this on their maxima's?
May 21, 2003 (6:20 pm)
will happen to any car that has an open rim design and gets wet, either from rain or just moisture like dew. when you first brake it comes right off - no worries.
#6902 of 8985 Rust on calipers?
May 21, 2003 (7:29 pm)
I understand about rust on the rotors but what about the outside, (the side that you see when you look at the wheeles)ofthe calipers? Am I the only one or is this common?
#6903 of 8985 Rust on calipers
May 21, 2003 (7:56 pm)
Yes, rust on calipers is very common as many manufacturers do not even paint new calipers, which are made of cast metal (usually cast iron). Surface rust actually protects these calipers from further corrosion and does not degrade the caliper in any way. A similar brake component which often has rust on its surface is the master cylinder. Other components on cars which are castings and not painted and have surface rust are front wheel hub/knuckle assemblies. If you take your front wheels off, you will see that the hubs are covered with surface rust.
So as long as the parts are castings, the surface rust does not matter.