Last post on May 11, 2010 at 11:16 AM
You are in the Mercedes-Benz E-Class
What is this discussion about?
Mercedes-Benz E-Class, Sedan
#4848 of 6720 Mercedes dream
Apr 18, 2003 (11:23 am)
I presently have a C class. My retirement car miht be a E class. But for now I'm not sure it will be a Mercedes. I have a 1998 Class it has been great. But it seem that anything made past 2002 is not so great. Does anyone really know why? Does anyone think that the cars look more Amercian now too? As it stands now I am going to buy a 2004 SAAB.
Apr 19, 2003 (10:54 am)
Does MB still offer a discount for European delivery? And if not, when and why did they stop?
#4850 of 6720 European delivery
Apr 19, 2003 (11:07 am)
No MB doesnt. nor VW or Audi why they stopped don't know. BMW does but its a small discount about 1500.00
Apr 19, 2003 (11:39 am)
Actually, BMW's discount is more substantial. Typically $1,500 plus invoice is about the best deal and that works out to be about 12% off MSRP for 530i. On the other hand, Porsche actually charges more for ED.
#4852 of 6720 AC problems on 2000 E320
Apr 19, 2003 (2:28 pm)
On a recent trip to the Outer Banks,the first 80 degree day we've seen in 6 months, I tried the AC and no cold air. I did get heat but the auto mode could not be turned off.
This is the third time i've had problems with the AC on this car. Every spring, or so it seems, when the AC is tried for the first time, nothing happens.
Spring 2001--it was diagnosed with no refrigerant; spring 2002--they replaced the entire temperature control module and now this.
Anyone else had these types of problems? BTW, the car is less than 4 years old and I have 52K miles on it; any chance MB will do the right thing and fix it out of warranty? Thanks for any help.
Apr 19, 2003 (6:29 pm)
For sure they should fix it, if it is one the items that that they have already tampered with. I would still pursue having them eat all or a good portion of the repair even if it isn't, given the amount of trouble that you've already had with the AC
#4854 of 6720 AC Problems by mmaddden1
Apr 19, 2003 (6:51 pm)
Unless you've been driving all winter in EC (economy mode) you've been using your AC system all winter. Have you noticed moisture on the inside of your windows with the heat on when it's very humid or raining? This would be an indication the AC system crapped out long ago and before your warranty ran out! Mercedes should definitely pay for all of this.
Apr 19, 2003 (7:11 pm)
Does anyone know if Mercedes will sell an E500 fully loaded with the sports package less than MSRP? Any feedback would be appreciated. The MSRP is $60,000
#4856 of 6720 E500 Pricing
Apr 20, 2003 (5:06 pm)
You should be able to get your car for much less than MSRP. Some people are getting them at invoice price if the dealer has plenty on hand.
I got an E500 6 months ago, it is a great car. Good luck with your negotiations.
#4857 of 6720 Mercedes purchase #4856 Clembo
Apr 21, 2003 (5:40 am)
Mercedes are purchased from dealers not from Mercedes. Every dealer is an independent business and determines its own sales price.
Several months ago I posted my method for purchasing cars which has worked well for me. Last week I bought a new volvo for a friend for $266 over factory cost which is determined by subtracting incentives and holdback from the invoice price. Holdback is 3 percent of MSRP on a mercedes. If your interested in learning more about dealer holdback go to Edmunds dealer holdback in your browser. My method as previously posted is:
I have read with great interest the multitude of posts over the past 2 weeks concerning purchasing new cars. Over the past 47 years I have purchased many new cars and I thought some of you may want to consider the model I use for buying cars.
First, you must determine what car or cars you want to buy. This may seem obvious but it's amazing how many people begin negotiations for a car when they have no idea WHAT car they want! Go to auto shows, search the automakers websites, go to EDMUNDS and other similar sites, determine repair frequencies, resale, safety, and any other factors that are important to you. When you decide what car or cars you're interested in, you can get info on costs.
You should determine the dealer's cost to the factory for the car(s) you are interested in. This includes the invoice price, dealer holdback, and any customer and dealer incentives available. Do not worry about any dealer costs that are not paid to the factory such as advertising, financing the vehicle on the lot, paperwork, sales commission, etc. You will never be able the determine these.
DO NOT include trade-in value of your car as part of the new car deal! If you must trade in your old car, get an offer from the dealer after you have made and sealed the deal on the new car. As far as the old car is concerned you can sell it to a dealer that makes the best offer, sell it yourself, donate it to a charity at high book value for its tax value, or maybe give it away with no tax deduction.
After determining the car you want and its cost to the dealer, you are ready to determine a price you are willing to pay. Add to the dealer's cost to the factory the amount you are willing to pay above that to determine your price goal for the purchase. Bear in mind that sales tax and license is extra on top of your price goal. All other fees of any kind should be included in your price goal. Do not get sidetracked in negotiations by extras such as processing fees, advertising, etc. Do not accept any charges for detailing, paint sealant, fabric sealant, rustproofing, or other nebulous bullcrap. You have your number do not add anything to it except sales tax and license fees.
Call the sales managers of all the dealerships within a reasonable distance of your residence. By talking to sales managers you may be able to avoid paying a commission to a salesman thus reducing your final price. Tell the SM exactly the car you want what exceptions you will accept and ask him to bid on the sale. I expect you will get 1/3 who will tell you to shove it where the sun don't shine, 1/3 who will give you an absurd price, but 1/3 will give you a good price probably better than your 'buy' price.
If no one bids your buy price or better then begin negotiations with the best bidders and try to reach an acceptable deal. I believe this method will result in a price much better that any Internet deal or in-house deal. You are in control in this process. You do everything on the phone and you can hang up the phone if anyone jerks you around. Once you reach agreement, you can get a FAX stating the terms or simply give a credit card deposit of $1000. Remember, only deal for the final number plus tax and license, no other add-ons. Make sure the FAX has that statement. Although if you make a credit card payment (NO DEBIT CARDS-they have no federal cancellation protection) you can stop it if the dealership changes the deal.
The fundamental rule of negotiating a contract is to "LEAVE SOMETHING ON THE TABLE FOR THE OTHER GUY". You have to decide what is fair and reasonable to develop your price. Do not worry about the poor dealer. He will worry about his deal and he won't worry one whit about saving you money. So you should worry about your deal and not one whit about the dealer. The result should be a good deal!
You have to decide what non-cost factors are worth to you. For example, how much more should you pay to deal with a nearby dealer? I have never had a case where a dealer I didn't buy from refused to service my car or gave poor service because I didn't buy from them. My last new car was a 2001 Mercedes E-430 and my local dealer (1 mile away) desperately wants my service business even though I didn't buy the car from him. I purchased the Mercedes for a price well into the dealer holdback with no add-ons.
What is a reasonable 'buy price'? Obviously, it depends on the market for the car you want. the supply of vehicles that meet your needs, your desperation to get the car you want (probably the most decisive factor for many people who will pay anything to satisfy an instant craving), and the need of the dealer to sell some cars! Whatever you do DON'T get in your car and drive to several dealers to negotiate. If you do that they have you by the cajones!! Deal on the PHONE! Make them have everything ready to sign when you arrive. No ombudsman and no finance guy. You should be out of the dealership with your new car in 30 minutes to 1 hour. If they hassle you with any new costs or other changes LEAVE and find a deal somewhere else!!
What percentage markup to pay to get a deal? There are many factors to consider but I'd consider a goal of 2-5 percent above the dealerís factory cost minus any dealer and customer rebates or other savings offered. You would add on tax and license to this but NO other fees of any kind!!