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Toyota Echo

5644 messages, Last post on Oct 12, 2009 at 11:53 AM
You are in the Toyota Echo Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Hello, I would like to know if someone can guide me regarding an engine stall problem that occurs once upon a time when i am about to stop at a stop sign (engine speed below 30 mph). The problem is recurring but no technician was able to help me because he cannot reproduce the stall and it occurs seldomly. I've checked that my left foot was throughly down on the clutch pedal while the right foot is on the break pedal. So there is no way that the stall is related to my driving habits. Can someone help, please ? |
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Did your mechanic check for error codes? If he cant take to car to AutoZone and they will read the codes for free. Then tell us what the coedes are and well go from there.
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Replying to: kneisl1 (Oct 03, 2008 2:40 pm) |
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The computer detects something wrong and sets a code that stays in the memory until read/deleted/resolved. Yes your car can appear to run fine with an error code set and in fact usually does. Also, whatever is causing the problem might NOT set a code. But that is the first thing to check. I do not know if AZ is in the Montreal area but you should be able to look up AZ on the internet and see if they have one near you. In any case the codes have to be checked. A scan agauge is about $100 and its easy to use. Just folow the directions and plug it into the diagnostic plug under the dash in front of the driver. Good luck and if you have any qustions just ask!
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Replying to: kneisl1 (Oct 06, 2008 5:00 am) So what's up now? P.S. Knowing this, would it make any sense to keep the machine in the car so that the next time the problem occurs i could run the tests ON THE SPOT again OR it would be useless because no codes were obtained after testing it in the first place (not a code problem) I've saw that there were more sophitiscated devices (more expensive too!) that would also verified OEM enhanced & transmission codes, enhanced SAE diagnostics (J1979 &2190), view and record enhanced OBD2 live data , and Mode 6 -02 sensor testing / mode 9 VIN identification. All those last features are not part of the device i've bought. Is is worthwhile? |
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No you really want just a plain jane gauge. If after using it you can see your way to move up to more expensive tools you might consider it. But I dont think thats likely. Hmm no codes. Can you go through the symptoms again and maybe elaborate a little? If the gauge says no codes there are no codes its that simple. If a code is set it stays in the computer until erased. So theres no sense keeping it hooked up.
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Replying to: kneisl1 (Oct 08, 2008 3:27 pm) 1- the clutch pedal in fully depressed 2- the shifting gear is most of the time in 3rd or neutral 3- the speedometer is slowing down around and/or between 20mph-30mph 4- the breaks are ON 5- the engine stalls before i reach the STOP sign with loss of stirring power I am not able to confirm the exactitude of the next one: 6- the car at the moment of stalling was engaging in a right curve (often but not always). |
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I forgot to ask you: how many miles on this car? First thing to do is make sure the sparkplugs and air filter are OK. If the air filter is dirty and the plugs have the sharp edges of the center electrode worn off you need new ones. Probably not going to solve the problem but still needs to be done. Another thing easy to check is the mass air sensor. Its located on top of the air filter housing, near the front of the car. There are two screws that hold it in and a electrical plug to disconnect. You remove it from the air filter housing, turn it upside down and look into it. There are fine wires located a few inches up inside it you can see. If these are clean its good. If they are dirty you need to clean them. If you break them while cleaning its $$$ for a new mass air sensor. If you Do find it dirty just put it back in and tell me and we'll talk about cleaning it. You dont have a K&N air filter do you? (which would be the likely cause of a dirty MAS.) Finally its possible you have air in the clutch lines. The clutch of the ECHO is hydralically operated and just like brakes, if air gets in there it wont work properly. If the car is old you might take it to a dealer or mechanic you trust and have them bleed the clutch. If old sludgy dark brake fluid comes out of it could be the clutch isnt operating like it should. (ie you push the clutch in and it wont disengage) I bleed my clutch once a year to avoid problems!
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Replying to: kneisl1 (Oct 08, 2008 7:27 pm) By the way what is a K&N air filter? |
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| Its a "high performance" filter which flows more air than the stock one. Its made of cotton and oiled to remove dirt. They are 95%efficient at removing dirt as opposed to the paper stock filter which is 99% efficient. The problem is the oil and gunk flow downstream to the fine wires on the mass air sensor cruding them up. A very bad idea to use on your ECHO! | |
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