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Sedans Toyota Echo Toyota Echo
5644 messages, Last post on Oct 12, 2009 at 11:53 AM
You are in the Toyota Echo Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: kneisl1 (Aug 19, 2008 7:50 pm)  I decided to not pay $40-60 for rotation every 6K miles. I did not like the OEM tires anyway. This Canadian made ’04 Corolla however turned out to have not only the wheels seizing to the hubs but the rotors & drums too. First it took a lot of super penetrating fluid and removing of surface rust on the hub center with a Scotchbrite pad. Then I used a long pry bar, a 5 # hammer plus a few choice words before they finally popped off with a loud snap. The actual reason for removing the wheel in the first place was there is no excuse for one of the front brake pads seizing in the caliper just after the warranty ended (actually the pads are probably not covered). The other three ‘free’ pads had about 50% or more life left based on the lining material remaining. So it seemed to be not a hydraulically problem or normal brake wear. It took quite a lot of effort to slide the worn pad off the caliper’s stainless clips while the other three slid off with relatively low effort! In addition most all of the under carriage and suspension fasteners seemed to have very low quality plating. My nearly 20 year old Japanese made Toyotas never exhibited anywhere near that much corrosion. Of course it was well rust proofed by yours truly. Possibly the use of today’s Chinese made fasteners has come back to bite us in the wallet. With reduced longevity. I'm rambling on so on to my solution to the problem. Do not try this at home  guys and gals. I apply a thin film of Black Molybdenum High Temp brake grease to the rotor to hub (or drum) and to the wheel mating surfaces. Then I high temp anti-seize the studs to make sure they do not seize up either. Yes it’s frowned upon in some circles as dangerous. However treated New Hampshire roads in winter can do a number to unplanted fasteners in just a couple of winters. That would be only 12-15 K miles on my wife’s Corolla. Lately much less than 2000 per year on my accessible ‘97 S-10 used primarily during winter. Prior to anti-seize I used to occasionally snap off properly torqued lug nuts due to corrosion when trying to remove them just a few years later. Specially when over tightened during service or state inspections. Not anymore. And safety wise I have never had any lugnuts loosen in more than 20 years with anti-seize. I actually do it to new cars as soon as possible. It is so nice being able to freely spin lugnuts on or off by hand. Currently other than me only the well trained very capable guys at Costco have removed the wheels. And they use a torque wrench to tighten the lugnuts to spec. Unfortunately they now are removing any treatment with brake cleaner. Rats! Any opinions? RG |
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As one who has lived in upstate NY for 25 winters I know where youre coming from! That old chestnut about antiseize on the wheel studs causing loose lug nuts needs to be put to rest! Driving on heavily salted roads can do those things to a car in a hurry. Really I would be removing and lubricating the wheels and brake parts once a year if I still lived there. At least Toyota uses acorn lug nuts instead of open ended nuts but even those are subject to seizure under those conditions. Throw in Neanderthal car mechanics overtightening the nuts and there you have it. You are wise to treat lugs with antiseize as soon as possible living where you do. Which reminds me about the trailer I just bought... But really the cure for stuck rims is loosen the lugs nuts on all four wheels a couple of turns and drive the car back and forth a few times. Youll hear the rims pop loose.
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Replying to: kneisl1 (Aug 26, 2008 7:02 am) |
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Man, I've taken my last two Toyotas past 200k miles and I'm working on getting the Echo there and I've NEVER had the wheels seize to the hubs - and my first two 'Yotas were mid-eighties cars where everything but the tires rusts! My Celica spent two winters in northern Maine also, so it spent plenty of time surfing around rocker-panel deep in snow. Just need to rotate your tires more than once a year! 
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Hello, I would like to know if someone can guide me regarding an engine stall problem that occurs once upon a time when i am about to stop at a stop sign (engine speed below 30 mph). The problem is recurring but no technician was able to help me because he cannot reproduce the stall and it occurs seldomly. I've checked that my left foot was throughly down on the clutch pedal while the right foot is on the break pedal. So there is no way that the stall is related to my driving habits. Can someone help, please ? 
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Did your mechanic check for error codes? If he cant take to car to AutoZone and they will read the codes for free. Then tell us what the coedes are and well go from there.
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Replying to: kneisl1 (Oct 03, 2008 2:40 pm) 
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The computer detects something wrong and sets a code that stays in the memory until read/deleted/resolved. Yes your car can appear to run fine with an error code set and in fact usually does. Also, whatever is causing the problem might NOT set a code. But that is the first thing to check. I do not know if AZ is in the Montreal area but you should be able to look up AZ on the internet and see if they have one near you. In any case the codes have to be checked. A scan agauge is about $100 and its easy to use. Just folow the directions and plug it into the diagnostic plug under the dash in front of the driver. Good luck and if you have any qustions just ask!
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Replying to: kneisl1 (Oct 06, 2008 5:00 am) So what's up now? Thank you for assistance! P.S. Knowing this, would it make any sense to keep the machine in the car so that the next time the problem occurs i could run the tests ON THE SPOT again OR it would be useless because no codes were obtained after testing it in the first place (not a code problem) I've saw that there were more sophitiscated devices (more expensive too!) that would also verified OEM enhanced & transmission codes, enhanced SAE diagnostics (J1979 &2190), view and record enhanced OBD2 live data , and Mode 6 -02 sensor testing / mode 9 VIN identification. All those last features are not part of the device i've bought. Is is worthwhile? |
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No you really want just a plain jane gauge. If after using it you can see your way to move up to more expensive tools you might consider it. But I dont think thats likely. Hmm no codes. Can you go through the symptoms again and maybe elaborate a little? If the gauge says no codes there are no codes its that simple. If a code is set it stays in the computer until erased. So theres no sense keeping it hooked up.
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