Last post on Dec 09, 2013 at 2:58 AM
You are in the Toyota Echo
What is this discussion about?
Toyota ECHO, Sedan
#5267 of 5822 Re: computer [rep5858]
Jul 04, 2007 (6:40 pm)
Hi guys, I am new here. I have a 2000 echo. I started reading here a few days ago. My engine trouble light came on ten days ago. At the dealer I was told they didnt know what it was about and cleared the computer. Several days later the light came back on. Into a different toyota dealer I went and was told the computer showed a costly catalytic converter repair was needed.
I called my neighborhood mechanic who said he could do the repair for half or less; who also said not to have the trouble light cleared. He wanted to read the code for himself. The light went out by itself so I cancelled the appointment.
So, two days ago I am coming home from work, I go to pull away from a light and the engine shudders; its vibrating, shaking the whole car. At first I thought it was the transmission. I took the car to the local mechanic. He called me saying #4 cylinder was not firing. A wiring problem he said. 2 hrs later he called to say the computer is defective and has to be replaced. Expensive for a new one; over 900 dollars. Less so for a used one; under 400 installed.
The lesson? Dont trust technology, or toyota dealer mechanics; by the way, there is nothing wrong with the catalytic converter. That would have been 1200 at the dealer.
Just thought you guys would like to know.
#5268 of 5822 Re: computer [maarty10]
Jul 05, 2007 (7:28 am)
If you have a cylinder that has been misfiring, it can cause cat damage. The light will come on occasionally as the ecu does its test for the cat efficiency. If the cat is marginal, it will also depend on how you drive.
You can get a used ECU for around $50. Check www.car-part.com. It's only about 5 minutes to swap them. If you choose to get one yourself, only get the 3rd generation or later 52673 (assuming automatic). Do NOT get the 52671 or 52672; they both have a problem that can cause random misfires at startup.
Did you ask how he knows its the ECU? Thats usually one of the last things they replace when trying to diagnose a problem...
#5269 of 5822 Re: computer [rjgee]
Jul 05, 2007 (12:49 pm)
Hey, thank you very much for the feedback. The car-part.com info was excellent. What a great site. Your info about the version code of the newer computer was also very good; as it turns out that is the code of the unit found for my car. I will find out tomorrow how he diagnosed the problem. I will get back to you.
Thanks again for the feedback; you have been very helpful. I love this little car.
#5270 of 5822 Re: computer [rjgee]
Jul 06, 2007 (5:07 pm)
Robert I owe you a beer or two. You have saved me 285 dollars. Yesterday when I had still not heard back from my mechanic I called him after I had read your post - to tell him I wanted only a computer with 52673. It had just arrived at his shop and he assured me it was 52673 - I mentioned the 3 at the end of the code 3 times just to make sure. Yeah yeah yeah he said.
Ok, here is where it gets interesting. Its two brothers who run this shop. The one I spoke with yesterday doesnt work today, but his brother does. When I hadnt heard from the shop by 2:00 I dedided to drop by. Brother 2 says he has put in the replacement computer, but that one of the injectors is dead - he is waiting for his supplier to send a new one, and that he is only charging me for the new injector and no labour since I havent bugged him. Its been 4 days. Ok I say. and 2 hours later he calls to say my car is ready.
He hands me the invoice. I pay him, and nonchalantly ask for the old computer. He says "I threw it out" and then without skipping a beat says "actually I traded it back to the supplier" I reply, "Well I know of a place that will refurbish a bad one and give a lifetime warranty on it for 300 dollars. He says, "Uh, call me monday and I will call the supplier" Ok I say, "and what was wrong with the injector? He gets it and shows it to me and puts a circuit tester on it. Its dead. I drive away, and 20 minutes later on a hunch pull over and check the numbers on the computer. Guess what? You probably already did. The number on the ecu is 52672. I went home and printed out a copy of our correspondence and go back to the shop.
I tell brother 2 about the discrepancy of the number on the ecu. He says he just installed what was left for him by brother 1 and doesnt know anything else. I say "is it possible the original ecu was mistakenly left out and thats what is in the car now? If call toyota with my vin# are they going to tell me 52672 was original to the car?
Brother 2 says let me call my brother and see whats going on, leave it with me.
45 minutes later he calls me and says come back to the shop, a mistake has been made, thats the original computer in your car.
I get to the shop and he hands me 285 cash. I thank him and say, "what I dont get is how is it that the car is running fine with a bad computer? " He is all red in the face, and says," It must be a bad injector, the computer is fine, thats good right?"
Thanks again Robert. Your a good man.
Jul 07, 2007 (5:49 am)
Not unusual. This is why I recommend you work on your own car as much as possible. Whatever you can do. The more you work on it the more you will learn. The less vulnerable you will be to things like this.
My sons Altima had a bad injector last winter. I figured thats what it was. I cant work on cars anymore so he took it to the mechanic himself. They sold him on a $300 flush job. Had I been there I would have said no change the injector, its dead electrically so flushing isnt going to help. They had to have known that. So they charged $300 for the flush and another $300 for the new injector. They discounted a little for the flush but the dammage was done.
#5272 of 5822 217,540 miles on my Echo....maintenance only
Jul 10, 2007 (2:22 pm)
Thought I'd post again. In a previous posting, I mentioned that my CEL had come on. The diagnostic said that "bank #1" was running lean. A few days before the light came on I had installed new spark plugs. They were the kind with the double ignition points. I wasn't able to get to a diagnostic center right away and but after about 4 days the light went off and hasn't been on since. It's been a couple of weeks. My MPG went up so now I'm getting about 42-43 MPG consistently. BTW, this is a great forum.
Jul 10, 2007 (6:38 pm)
For what its worth I belive bank 1 referes to the first of two oxygen sensors in the exhaust system.
#5274 of 5822 Re: bank 1 [kneisl1]
Jul 11, 2007 (3:46 am)
The echo only has bank 1. V6/V8 engines have 2 banks.
Jul 11, 2007 (7:47 am)
I see. The serice manual shows two sensors, bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 1 sensor 2.
#5276 of 5822 Change Your Oil For $2.67!
Jul 14, 2007 (8:14 am)
Where I live Pep Boys is having a special promotion. Pennzoil or Quaker State oil 69 cents a quart after rebate. You have to pay $2.39 a quart up front. Oil filters to fit your ECHO (Purolator L14476) for 1 cent each after rebate. You can buy up to four filters for 1 cent each. You have to get their rebate sheet which should be at the front desk. Look on the sheet and find these items. Im assuming this is everywhere Pep Boys is so youre in luck if theres one near you.