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Toyota Echo

5807 messages,  Last post on May 28, 2013 at 7:20 PM

You are in the Toyota Echo Forum.

What is this discussion about? Toyota ECHO, Sedan

Messages Page 524 of 582

#5226 of 5807 I will by nippononly

Apr 05, 2007 (6:56 pm)

"echo" that!
 
The local Scion dealer gets the Rostra cruise control installed in their xAs (same engine and everything as the Echo) for $300 customer cost.
 
I have the Rostra in my Echo (2002) and it works almost exactly the same as a Toyota factory cruise would work. It is easy to use, maintains speed very well without lots of slowing down and speeding up, and the only things it lacks are a cancel feature (you have to use the brake to cancel)and a light on the dash to tell you it is on (it does, however, have a green light on the unit itself to tell you it is on).
 
I recommend it for the Echo.

#5227 of 5807 cruise by tsnook

Apr 05, 2007 (9:00 pm)

Thanks for the info. Now I've just got to figure out what to get first, cruise control or a new CD player. My toyota original doesn't play CD's anymore.

#5228 of 5807 toyota echo by mopar71

Apr 07, 2007 (1:04 pm)

Did it help your gas mileage after you installed the cruise control?

#5229 of 5807 Death Rate for ECHO by kneisl1

Apr 19, 2007 (7:40 pm)

The average death rate per million registered vehicle years is 79 for all vehicles. The ECHO is excellent for a small car...70. You have to get into an Audi or Mercedes or Lexus to do much better. The KIA Spectra was like 170. Hyundai was 100. That is 100 people died for every 1 million years one of these vehicles was on the road. So if 100,000 ECHOs were sold in this country over 6 years thats 600,000 vehicle years. This means only about 40 people have been killed in ECHOs in the USA. Doesnt sound right. Pretty damn good if true!

#5230 of 5807 Re: coolant change [kneisl1] by mccallr

Apr 28, 2007 (4:58 pm)

Replying to: kneisl1 (Sep 16, 2002 5:09 am)
I have a 2001 Echo (5 Speed) and changed my anti-freeze coolant today. I was wondering if you had the same problem I did. I removed the plastic radiator drain plug, drained the radiator, filled it with water (installed plug), ran the engine for 15 minutes, and then drained the radiator again. Since the capacity is 4.7 qts, I started putting in 1 quart of anti-freeze, then 1 quart of distilled water. The problem was, by the time I was putting the second quart of anti-freeze, the radiator was full. In essence, I must of had about 3 quarts of water in the engine and less than 2 quarts of anti-freeze. I wasn't sure what to do so I let the car run again for 15 minutes and then drained the radiator again. This time, I was able to put 2 quarts of straight anti-freeze in before the radiator filled up. I am hoping that the diluted water in the engine, plus the 2 quarts I put in, is enough. I don't know where the engine drain plug is so I guess it's the best I can do. I would appreciate any ideas you might have. Thanks. Bob

#5231 of 5807 coolant by kneisl1

Apr 29, 2007 (2:20 pm)

I couldnt find or get to the the block drain either. When I changed my coolant the plan was: drain the radiator, measure what came out, and replace with a 50-50 mix of coolant and water. Maybe it all wont come out thats fine, Ill just drain whatever comes out every year and replace it and that way therell always be fresh coolant in the engine. But when I drained it using only the radiator drain 4.7 quarts came out! I filled the radiator with 50-50 mix until full and put the cap on. I idled the engine until the fan came on. Then I let it cool for a good 20 minutes so its cool to the touch. I opened the radiator cap and filled it to the brim again with 50-50. Then I repeated until the radiator was full. Over the next few days every morning before starting I checked the level by taking off the cap. It was always full.
   See, when you filled it up it may not probably was not full. You need to cap the radiator and idle it till the fan comes on let it cool completely cool and top it off and repeat until its full. Im hoping like mine 4.7 quarts come out when you drain just the radiator.
   Now what to do with your situation. The mistake you made was to not fill the radiator with a 50-50 mix so now you dont know exactly whats in there. No biggie. I would drain the coolant out the radiator again. Have the car hot and turn the heat knob on full. Let it cool completely cool. (about half an hour) This time measure how much comes out. Mine was 4.7 quarts. THIS TIME fill only with 50-50 mix. If 4.7 comes out great. If less than that dont worry about it. Just fill with 50-50 this time. You have to fill it up, cap it, idle it till the fan comes on, let it cool completely cool, open the radiator again and fill with the 50-50. Repeat until full. Check daily in the morning engine absolutely cool to make sure the system is full. Oh and you should also drain the expansion tank and refill with 50-50 mix. I believe it unbolts from behind the radiator and its easy to get out.
  Let me know what you decide to do. Please if you drain again DO NOT open the radiator cap of a hot engine!! You could be badly burned! I even remove the radiator cap of a cold engine with a heavy rag even so just to be extra safe. Let me know what happens!!

#5232 of 5807 Re: coolant [kneisl1] by mccallr

Apr 29, 2007 (5:21 pm)

Replying to: kneisl1 (Apr 29, 2007 2:20 pm)
Thank you very much for all the information. I wish I had originally just drained the radiator but the mechanic at the Auto Hobby Shop I went to told me to remove the top hose from the radiator cap (one that goes into the top of the engine), put a water hose into the radiator, and let the car run until all the coolant was out of the engine. This is where I went wrong since I had a lot of just plain water in the engine. Needless to say, I'll follow your instructions now and in the future. Right now, I have about 2 qts of coolant and 2.7 qts of water. I'll drive it to work this week and then next Saturday, I'll drain the radiator and put 50/50 in it. Since the engine will certainly have some coolant mixed in, it will hopefully be fine. I bought distilled water, but unfortunately the engine is full of hose water from the hobby shop. I'm hoping that regular water won't hurt the engine. Thanks again for all your help and advice. These forums are really great! I learned how to change my Echo spark plugs and oil (both were easier than my coolant fiasco). I'm wondering if I should change my manual transmission oil. My 2001 ECHO has 67,000 miles on it and it's never been changed. Do you know if that's hard to do? Looking around in my engine compartment, I haven't found a dipstick for the transmission oil. Knock on wood, I've never had anything go bad on my Echo. I still have the original battery and brakes. I do change the oil every 3,000 miles and I've changed the spark plugs (put irridium ones in at 40K miles), and changed my air filer a few times. My Echo doesn't quite have the pick-up it used to, but I get 40-42 MPG and my AC works fine so I've been pretty lucky.

#5233 of 5807 Re: coolant [kneisl1] by mccallr

Apr 29, 2007 (5:26 pm)

Replying to: kneisl1 (Apr 29, 2007 2:20 pm)
I forgot to mention, but I drained the expansion tank by removing the little tube that connects to the radiator cap mount and pushing the hose all the way down. The tank emptied in a few seconds. I then put the little hose into the 2 guide clamps and reconnected it to the radiator cap mount. I was going to put 50/50 in it, but since I knew I didn't have enough anti-freeze in the system, I put 100% anti-freeze in the expansion tank. I'm not sure if that will ever get mixed with the rest of the coolant, but if it does, I'll probably have close to the 50/50 mixture that I want.

#5234 of 5807 further instructions by kneisl1

Apr 29, 2007 (7:29 pm)

As to the hose water in the engine, that is what I used for my ECHO. (I think) We have very good artesion well water here in in NJ. It is very "soft" ie little mineral content. So it is fine to use in the coolant. Unless the water where you live is very high in mineral content I think you will be fine.
  Also I see no real problem in your antifreeze mix. If that is in fact what you have. You would be well leaving it as it is. Its close enough I think. If you have very hard water in your area you might want to drain it and put in distilled water and antifreeze mixed 50-50. I believe the antifreeze you put in the expansion tank will indeed mix with the coolant in the rest of the engine. Where do you live?
   You can indeed change your transmission oil. Its not hard and I will explain how. I suggest a synthetic oil if you live in a cold climate as it will make shifting in winter easier. But regular transmission oil is fine. It should say GL-5 on the bottle. 75w-90 or 80w-90. (not 75w-140...nothing with 140 in it) Mobile One is fine. I can get Amsoil so that is what I used. Your transmission takes two quarts.
   First get a 7/8 inch socket. (or it might be 15/16)There are three bolts on the tranmission this socket will fit. One is under the battery and the battery tray on top of the transmission. You will have to remove them to see it. This is one of the fill plugs. It is easiest to fill the transmission from this plug. But a pain to take out the battery. There is another fill plug on the FRONT of the transmission half way up the transmission facing the radiator. This is also a fill plug. You may fill from either one. However, this second bolt should remain out when you fill the transmission with oil. The oil goes up to the hole the plug went in. You fill the trans with oil until it runs out this hole. The third plug is the drain plug and it is located at the bottom most part of the transmission. The face of the plug is vertical not horizontal. Again the 7/8 socket (you know I thinks its really 15/16) fits it. When you change the engine oil and maybe have the car on ramps, use the socket to find these bolts. Then you will know where they are. You can forget all about the one under the battery and just use the last two. But the one under the battery is there if you need it.
  You will need to have the car on ramps to change the oil. You will need to remove the plastic under fender on the left side of the car. Its near the radiator. There are two philips screws, a 10mm nut and two 10 mm bolts holding it on. Simple to remove and replace. You will need a transmission oil pump. Pep Boys and Auto Zone have them $13. It looks like a grease gun but instead of a grease fitting it has a long clear flexible tube. Its like a giant syringe really and works like one.
   Ok here we go. Get the oil and the ramps and the pump and the 15/16 inch socket (you better measure it and find out for sure!) Drive the car around to get the oil warm. Put the car up on ramps. You have already found the drain and fill plugs. Remove first the fill plug on the front of the trans behind the radiator. It may be necessary to remove the plastic under fender first. Then remove the drain. Drain the oil into a pan. Now go into the house and boil some water in a large pot. Put the two bottles of trnasmission oil into the boiling water. Dont pour the oil in just put the bottles in! We want to warm the oil so the gun sucks it up easily. Bring the pot and bottles out to the car. After an hour of drain time put the drain plug back in. It has a sealing washer you can reuse. If you lose the washer get another one! Open the bottles and suck the oil up into the gun. The gun works like a giant syringe. It will suck up about half the oil in the bottle in one shot. Put the end of the hose into the fill plug and push the oil in. Repeat until the bottles are empty and the trans full. You might possibly do without the suction gun and just squeeze the oil right out of the bottle into the trans. But the gun is easier.
   Now the front of your car is up in the air and the fill plug is still out. Gently drive off the ramp. When you do and the car is level oil will run out the fill hole. Let it drain out until it stops. It wont be much. The oil level is right when its up to the lower edge of this hole. In fact once a year you should take the fill plug out with the car level and add some oil if it isnt. Catch the oil with a rag or a pan and put the fill plug back in. Put the plastic under fender on and you are done!
   I would also remove one of the front wheels and check your disc brake pads pretty soon if you havnt done so already. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left (for the left wheel) before you remove the wheel and youll see the caliper and the pads. By now they just might be pretty worn out. Maybe not!
   At 60k miles your engine is due for a valve clearance adjustment. I have written up a proceedure in this forum how to CHECK the clearances yourself if you want to. The clearance is most likely fine...these shim and bucket arrangements hold the clearance pretty good. Id say 19 out of 20 ECHOs are still good at 60k miles. If its bad though you want it adjusted. You can burn a valve and need a valve job if there isnt enough clearance. The dealer will have to adjust it. It might be very expensive like $500. But it probably doesnt need it and youll most likely be fine to let it go. But if you want to post me.
   I would have the rear brakes checked by the dealer. Or if you are adventureous you can do it. Remove the rear wheels and brake drums. Toyota drums often get really stuck on.
    Also when you change the oil on ramps each time you do check the boots on the axle joints. The ones next to each wheel go first. (they steer as well as rotate) They can crack and all the grease come out, ruining the axle. A moot point I guess because its as expensive to take the old axles out and put on new booots as it it to have rebui;t axles installed. The new boots last much longer. My 1980Sunaru they went every 60 k miles. My daughters Camry went at 100k. (1992)
   Keep changing your oil every 3k miles and check the air filter once a year. Your plugs are probably good for the life of the car. If you do this your ECHO will last 20 years. It is an incredibly well made little car.
  Thats all I can think of. Maybe Ill think of mmore later.

#5235 of 5807 maintenance shcedule by rep5858

May 05, 2007 (8:07 am)

I have a 2001 ECHO with 149K. Is there a maintenance schedule interval at 150K and thereafter? What things might be included??
Thanks

Messages Page 524 of 582

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