Last post on Mar 24, 2013 at 11:51 AM
You are in the BMW 3-Series
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BMW 3 Series, Sedan
#30097 of 30250 Re: Probable Tail light, brake light, turn signal recall? [pylt1]
Feb 27, 2009 (1:54 pm)
Below is a post that was on the Windy City BMW group last year. I actually had this problem on my 2002 330i. It was easily fixed for about $10 and an hour of my time.
Does anyone here have tips on how to successfully ask a dealer to
perform (minor) repairs specified in a TSB on a car is 7000 miles out of
This is the TSB I need
It is a fix for incorrect ground wiring used in the tail light of some
E46 sedans (production dates of 9/01 to 3/05)
The problem was reported as a dead bulb. After verifying all the bulbs
were fine, I discovered corrosion on the connector. Heat from the ground
wire had melted the connector and was causing a short with adjacent
wires, along with lots of little sparks!
Some guys have posted a DIY fix here:
I will do that this weekend if I am not able to get it fixed by the
dealer. I would prefer it if they fixed it though, so what can I do to
help my cause, other than asking nicely?
#30098 of 30250 Re: Probable Tail light, brake light, turn signal recall? [Mr_Shiftright]
Feb 27, 2009 (9:08 pm)
Well I'll be darned. There IS a TSB on rear tail lights:
The E39s are notorious for indicating that tail lamp bulbs are bad. The cure is simple. Spray the bulb sockets with a good contact cleaner, use ONLY silver base bulbs(OEM or Sylvania/Osram), and coat the bulb terminals with a fine film of dielectric grease. I think it cost me $300 per side...
#30099 of 30250 1984 318i major idle issues
Mar 03, 2009 (11:50 am)
hi i just inherited a 1984 318i that was stored for about a year. before it passed emissions the icv was adjusted to bring down the rpms (I think). Shortly after that the power steering pump leaked and my husband rebuilt it and replaced the pressure and return hoses. the problem with the P/S was resolved but after he reinstalled it and went to start the car, it wouldnt start. It turned over fine but it was like the fuel wasnt getting to the engine. I suggested to my husband that maybe he didnt connect a hose back or something. That actually turned out to be correct and after he reconnected some hose it started but now it is idling at 3000rpm. it jumps to 4000+ when he presses the accelerator and then drops to 2000rpm when he releases the gas pedal but then right back up to 3000rpm and just idles there. no other real fluctuation. He replaced the ICV and the ICU but no change. Is it possible something didnt get "hooked" back up after the P/S repair? If so, ...what? and if not...what should I do?
Mar 03, 2009 (12:36 pm)
You might check for a tear/rip in the bottom of the rubber bellows that connects the fuel distributor to the intake air horn, or for some other vacuum leak which can disturb the fuel mixture. Being such an old car, cracks in rubber parts are always suspect.
#30101 of 30250 Re: [Mr_Shiftright]
Mar 04, 2009 (9:21 am)
Yep, there's a vacuum leak somewhere. Check ALL the rubber lines- especially the boot that connects the air flow sensor to the intake manifold- part #8 on this diagram.
Mar 04, 2009 (9:35 am)
Yep that the part I was thinking of. Common problem and you can't see it unless you feel around under there!!
Mar 07, 2009 (11:05 am)
Well, the 1975 '02 has been sitting under its Bavarian Autosport Ultimate Car Cover since early December. Prior to today, the dismal weather and my laziness had kept me from fooling with it, but my son needed it moved as it was blocking his basketball goal, so I stripped off the car cover and prepared to get my jumper cables out of the Jeep. For some reason I decided to go ahead and try to start it and sure enough it turned over. So, I cranked it for 5 seconds, pumped the gas pedal a couple of times, twisted the key again and the old sled fired right up. I ended up driving it around town for a half hour and came back home. That car cover was the ticket, despite snow, ice storms, and heavy rain the car was dry as a bone inside and there was no condensation in the interior or the trunk. I'm even debating whether I should try to install the Recaros today. It looks like I might be driving it to the Pittsburgh Vintage GP after all. Woo-Hoo!
#30104 of 30250 150,000 miles (and counting...) '01 330Ci
Mar 10, 2009 (10:55 am)
I broke the 150K milestone on my way to work today. It's not the first time I've put that many miles on a car, but it's the first time I've ever done it without the desire to dump it at the side of the road and get a new one.
With the exception of higher than normal oil consumption, suspension that's getting noticably softer, and a seatbelt that doesn't always want to retract, the car is solid and still a joy to drive.
If I can find/fix the oil consumption issue at a price that makes sense, I'll follow it up with the shocks and struts and keep it indefinitely... I'll probably just suck it up and deal with the seatbelt.
#30105 of 30250 Re: 150,000 miles (and counting...) '01 330Ci [kominsky]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Mar 10, 2009 (7:49 pm)
Have you had a cylinder leakdown test performed on the car. That should pinpoint the source of the oil issue---if it were just valve stem seals, that might not be too bad a repair.
#30106 of 30250 Re: 150,000 miles (and counting...) '01 330Ci [Mr_Shiftright]
Mar 11, 2009 (7:29 am)
I haven't done anything yet... just throwing in a quart every 2-3 weeks. There are no signs that the oil is burning... no blue smoke, no burning oil smell, etc. When the weather warms up a little, I'll crawl underneath, pull off the plastics, and take a good look around. The oil seperator valve seems to be a problem spot on E46's, so hopefully it's that valve or a hose somewhere. If I can't find an external leak, then it's time to take it somewhere. Thanks for the suggestion!