Last post on Mar 24, 2013 at 10:51 AM
You are in the BMW 3-Series
What is this discussion about?
BMW 3 Series, Sedan
Dec 06, 2002 (9:17 pm)
Hello All, I am looking to buy my first BMW. I am looking at a 1996 328i. It has 84,000 miles automatic, and has all the bells and whistles. What can you tell me about this one? I do know it belongs to the wife of the car dealership owner,(not a BMW Dealership). I ran the vin through carfax and the and it has had two owners.
They are asking $14,900.00
any input would be great. Thank you
Dec 07, 2002 (7:34 am)
I am not sure, but that price seems kind of high. That is the first year of the 328i I believe. No biggie, since the car was always the same as the 325i for the most part, just got the bigger 2.8L 6cyl. It is a light fast agile car. Make sure all the maintenance was done if possible. Ask where they had the maintenance done. I have a friend who has over 200k miles on his 1996 328i and he still has it.
#21051 of 30250 ddtigger, Have you checked Edmunds used car values?
Dec 07, 2002 (8:52 am)
2 clicks away.
Agree with mseals
Dealer Trade-In: What Others Are Getting $11,427
Private Party: What Others Are Getting/Paying $13,078
Dealer Retail: What Others Are Paying $15,357
#21052 of 30250 I put on my snows yesterday
Dec 07, 2002 (9:54 am)
Dunlop M2 Winter Sports (205/55/16) on Mille Miglia Spiders. Traction in snow is very good and braking is awesome. The question is not "How much speed do I need to pick up to make it up that hill with the summer tires?" - it's more like "Will the DSC kick in if I have to stop halfway up that hill and need to get going from standstill?"
Anyhow, some observations from changing the tires:
1. My rears would not come off. I kept trying to pull them out and they would not even budge. I ended up calling my service guy at the dealership and asked them if they spray anything to help the wheel come off. He said "give it a real good kick or use a rubber mallet" I told him the rubber soles on my shoes were better than a rubber mallet. It took 7-8 very good kicks before the rears came off - has anyone else experienced that? No problem with the fronts at all - it was just the drive wheels. Last time the rims had been taken out was 4 months/12K miles ago.
2. The Star 44s with Sumitomo HTR Z II weigh 48.5 lbs a pop. My snow tire setup weighed exactly the same. Aren't the 44's supposed to be lighter than the knock-offs?!?
3. The Mille Miglia Spiders are VERY easy to scratch compared to the 44s. They may weigh the same but there is a reason why the 44's are so much more expensive. Not to mention that at high speed, they are much less likely to split up.
4. Not one set of lug nuts had the same torque settings. The rear left needed all the force that I could apply. The front right ones would've come off even if I had used just one hand. You'd think the dealers do at least that right...
5. If you do not have a 17 mm socket yet, make sure to get a long socket. Even the long socket does not clear the fender completely and it is easy to scratch it.
6. The $25 clicking type torque wrench from the Tirerack worked great. Similar torque wrench at Sears was ~ $60.
Bring on the snow!
#21053 of 30250 Re: Observations of changing tires
Dec 07, 2002 (10:01 am)
1. Use Anti seize compound
2. Who installed your Wheels? did not use a torque wrench? = most frequent cause of disc brake warping and vibration.
Traditionally, I have de-torqued---re-torqued the wheels after changing tires to avoid this. If they use an air wrench, you can bet all the lug nuts will end up different
#21054 of 30250 Re: Observations of changing tires
Dec 07, 2002 (10:33 am)
If you do not have a 17 mm socket yet, make sure to get a long socket. Even the long socket does not clear the fender completely and it is easy to scratch it.
I like the 4 end, cross shaped lug wrench. Lots of torque and it spins easily once the nuts are loose.
#21055 of 30250 Observations from the snow
Dec 07, 2002 (5:11 pm)
Trying to get up a hill in my 330i with stock tires, had to get a running start. DSC kicked in a couple of times, I didn't go very fast, and kept the RPMs below 2K.
Car in back of me a front-wheel drive Mazda, couldn't make it up the same hill. My monsta' SUV yawned as it went up the hill.
My conclusion though, is in snow deeper than 6-8 inches, I wouldn't even take the Bimmer out, snow tires or not. The front-end is way to low to go through high powder and the low profile tires do not really do a good job on unplowed streets. Snows I'm sure would be better, but if we have heavy snows this year, the Bimmer is going to see a lot of the garage.
#21056 of 30250 brave1heart - changing tires
Dec 07, 2002 (8:32 pm)
I had the same problem with my rear wheels being stuck. I tried kicking, 2x4 lumber, etc. I finally got the wheels to break loose by jacking up the car, removing the lug nuts, and then lowering the car slowly onto the tires to get the wheels to break fre. There was a lot of gunk on the hubs. I put antiseize on them to hopefully prevent this next time.
What torque did you use ? The manual specifies 100 Nm, but I read that was changed to 120 Nm. I called the service department and they told me 90-95 Nm is standard. So I just torqued everything to 100 Nm.
#21057 of 30250 BMW Accessories
Dec 08, 2002 (5:35 am)
Has anyone experienced the effectiveness of the clear protective film? I am considering it versus a bra, since I drive significant highway miles with corresponding front end paint damage issues. Also, is the BMW security system a worthy accessory versus an aftermarket system?
#21058 of 30250 Poor AM radio reception
Dec 08, 2002 (6:48 am)
For the people experiencing poor AM radio reception - if you are still under warranty then you can request that the servicing dealership comply with Service Issue 65 01 99 which addresses the poor reception common to the E46 chassis.
During assembly the coaxial cable that runs from the antenna in the rear window was not tightened correctly where it attaches to the signal booster which is mounted on the driver side "C" pillar. A simple removal of the interior "C" pillar cover will expose the amplifier and the loose cable. Retighten the cable (snugly using önly finger strength) and reinstall the panel and the problem should be cured. If doing this procedure yourself I recommend that you reattach all wiring into the amplifier with a small dab of dielectric grease to seal out moisture and dampen vibration.