Last post on Mar 24, 2013 at 10:51 AM
You are in the BMW 3-Series
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BMW 3 Series, Sedan
#21041 of 30250 BMW in the winter
Dec 06, 2002 (12:13 pm)
I had to made this Salomonic decision:
A. Sell my worthless but faithful 1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS 5-speed with 170000 miles and buy winter tires for the Bimmer (for the same price). Drive with snow tires for 4 months, knowing that I would only need them for about 12 days of those 120 (of course, your snow-meter/situation will vary).
B. Keep the Bimmer on summer tires, keep the Eclipse and drive it during those snow days.
Well, mathematically, B costs the same as A, provides me with a backup car in case of emergency, and saves the Bimmer from the rock-salt splash/shower during those nasty days. So I decided to keep the Eclipse, and follow closely the weather channel
Dec 06, 2002 (1:23 pm)
That's exactly what I did last year. I had a '93 Altima when I got my Ci and kept it for winter use. It had ~160K miles and I really didn't care too much if something bad happened to it. This past Spring, though, it would've required several hundred $$ worth of repairs to pass inspection. It still ran well, but exhaust and brakes were ready for replacement. I decided to donate it to the Lung Foundation which turned out to be a pretty good deal.
Dec 06, 2002 (1:31 pm)
There's always choice C. Move to a sunny state.
Dec 06, 2002 (4:48 pm)
A buddy of mine just picked up his Passat wagon last night. VW recommends premium fuel (92+ octane), but apparently VW recently determined that premium fuel doesn't make much difference in the colder months.
This makes sense based on my limited knowledge of higher octane fuels. Higher octane gas doesn't have any more BTU/gallon, but the additional octane helps prevent pre ignition of the fuel, aka knocking. Higher octane allows high compression engines to adjust the timing to get more horsepower from the engine without knocking. Colder temperatures should reduce the engine temperature somewhat which should help reduce pre ignition of the fuel.
Does the engine adjust for the lower ambient temperature without the added octane in the fuel? Does it matter what grade fuel is in the tank when the temps dip below freezing?
Dec 06, 2002 (4:56 pm)
When we bought my wife's Volvo, I got the '95 Mazda 626 to drive during the winter and parked the Miata. This was an easy choice since the 626 was safer, had a better heater and just as reliable as the Miata.
I could have kept the 626 as a winter car when I got the 325i, but the BMW is safer, has a better heater and should be more reliable. I'm certain I wouldn't make much in resale by parking the BMW during the winter. Plus I got $5000 for the 626 which would just go down while it was parked for 8 months per year.
The problem with older cars is they're more likely to break down which can be life threatening in Wisconsin in January.
#21046 of 30250 Bad Battery after 2 years
Dec 06, 2002 (6:08 pm)
Wife's '00 323iA needed a new battery. Battery died 3 times in last 5 weeks. Twice they said it was fine. This time they said just replace it. Only 38,200 miles. Car built 5/00 and put in service 8/00. Fortunately they replaced the battery at no charge. They said nothing is wrong with the charging system.
Makes me think about all the articles and letters I've seen the past year in Roundel and Bimmer magazines regarding BMW batteries. But in most cases the original battery lasts for a long time and the BMW replacement battery quits after only 2 or so years. Wonder if BMW is cutting corners on batteries?
#21047 of 30250 lower octane in winter
Dec 06, 2002 (6:34 pm)
there are two main reasons for this:
1) the temperature of the engine itself is lower. knock comes easiest in the dead of summer.
2) in most areas, winter fuel mixes contain oxygenates such as ethanol or MTBE (now being phased out). oxygenates have poor energy content but very a high anti-knock index.
(IT guy for an energy company)
Dec 06, 2002 (9:11 pm)
Few people realize that you can actually drive along 90+% of the California coastline. I read your post and started drooling again. My wife and I drove Hwy. 1 from San Clemente to Eureka in our CRX SI back in the good 'ol days. Still one of the most fond driving memories I have. Nothing I have ever driven beats the areas between Cambria to Carmel or from Stinson Beach to Mendocino. If anyone has the time and the opportunity, I would highly recommend it.
I just wish now with life's realities of a job, kid mortgage etc... that I could bail with my bimmer for a week to blaze up the coast.
Dec 06, 2002 (9:17 pm)
Hello All, I am looking to buy my first BMW. I am looking at a 1996 328i. It has 84,000 miles automatic, and has all the bells and whistles. What can you tell me about this one? I do know it belongs to the wife of the car dealership owner,(not a BMW Dealership). I ran the vin through carfax and the and it has had two owners.
They are asking $14,900.00
any input would be great. Thank you
Dec 07, 2002 (7:34 am)
I am not sure, but that price seems kind of high. That is the first year of the 328i I believe. No biggie, since the car was always the same as the 325i for the most part, just got the bigger 2.8L 6cyl. It is a light fast agile car. Make sure all the maintenance was done if possible. Ask where they had the maintenance done. I have a friend who has over 200k miles on his 1996 328i and he still has it.