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BMW 3-Series 2005 and earlier

30250 messages,  Last post on Mar 24, 2013 at 11:51 AM

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What is this discussion about? BMW 3 Series, Sedan

Messages Page 1937 of 3025

#19361 of 30250 crunched by huntzinger

Aug 06, 2002 (1:01 pm)

A brief "About the Book" description hardly indicates it has anything to do with the specific subject under discussion. If it does, please post a link to the specific section(s) ...
 
I'm not going to even try to summarize a 400 page copyrighted technical textbook. Take the listed ISBN and plug it in to Amazon and find a copy to buy. The few pages that you can read online hardly even breaks the surface.
 
I'd love to learn more about the specific subject we've been discussing.
 
The brief bottom line is that for the level of impact we're talking about, the engine block is for practical purposes a rigid object that's not going to significantly deform to absorb a significant amount of the crash energy. Think of it as a big brick that's more "in the way" than it is helping things. The I6/V6 generalization is that things that have to be "in the way" will be less "in the way" if they're a smaller package, and that this makes more room available for crash energy absorbing structures. The theoretical ideal is 0% engine and 100% crash structure, but in reality, that's not going to happen.
 
... there is a difference between crash test results in a artificially controlled setting (e.g., NHTSA and IIHS labs) and actual real world results ....
 
Yup. And unfortunately, the uncontrolled setting of 'field reports' makes statistical analysis quite hard; and downright impossible if it involves a self-selected sample. Ditto for the statistics on crash test sampling, although that's a topic ripe for test plan scope creep.
 
Would also be interesting to look at the correlation between 6-cyl engine configuration and safety.
 
Agreed.
 
My hypothesis: Since 1990 I6s in passenger vehicles ...
 
All of the US automakers used to have I6's, typically back before they adopted FWD for weight/packaging/cost savings, so if we looked back into this time period, I think we're going to find that MB & BMW were still better, which simply reenforces our position that the single most significant contributor is the manufacturer.
 
FWIW, keep in mind that in the Euro crash tests, the little MB A-Class got a 4 Star rating, the same as the 3er. Actually, the A was actually better in the front. Oops.
 
There are a tremendous number of factors that come into play regarding safety.
 
Which is why this is shouldn't get beaten to death as somehow being definitive. There's a technical basis to say that a V6 may offer a slight advantage for at least one crash mode, but that alone doesn't provide a compulsion to change: after all, look at how poorly GM does, despite having a theoretical leg up.
 
-hh

#19362 of 30250 What do you guys use... by silverprincess

Aug 06, 2002 (1:32 pm)

...to get rid of tree sap and bird dung off your bimmer? I tried washing it off yesterday and it won't come off at all, just leaves yellow marks all over the hood! I usually just use dishwashing liquid but it's not strong enough to get rid of this stuff!

#19363 of 30250 Safety and Engine Configuration: IIHS I6 vs V6 Results by riez

Aug 06, 2002 (1:50 pm)

huntzinger... Is too bad the NHTSA data is too old to be useful (has data on E36), but the IIHS data is interesting. Their web site lists 6 "Best Picks" for the "Midsize Luxury Cars". MB C320, Volvo S80, Lexus ES300, Lexus IS300, Saab 9-5, and BMW 328i. You have 3 V6 and 3 I6 configurations.
 
ES300 is transversely mounted FWD V6. Isn't the S80 I6 transversely mounted versus the longitudinally mounted IS300 and 328i I6s? Should an E-W configuration help or hurt versus a N-S configuration?
 
The MB did quite well. But so did the rest. All received a "G", the highest rating for "structure/safety cage" as well as all "Injury measures" (except one "A" for the 9-5).
 
The BMW fell down on "restraints/dummy kinematics" and "head restraint design", but neither is related to engine configuration.
 
The BMW is the oldest design tested of these 6 Best Picks. It is a MY 2000 328i. The C-class was redesigned in 2001. The Volvo S80 discusses differences in 2000 & 2001 designs/equipment versus 1999. The Saab 9-5 is a brand new 2002 design.
 
Look at the intrusion measurements for each. Not sure what conclusions can be drawn. The I6 328i beats the V6 9-5 and I6 S80 but loses to the V6 C320. Essentially a tie between the I6 328i and V6 ES300. And the I6 IS300 beats the I6 328i.

#19364 of 30250 A/C control module not working on '96 - '99 3 series. by millauto

Aug 06, 2002 (2:14 pm)

My climate control does whatever it wants, when it wants. Sometimes when the car is cold, the system will be fully functional with indicator lights working and will respond to any command in any mode. After a minute or less, the lights on the heater control panel will go out, then after that, the heater / A/C will not function on the chosen setting. Instead, it does whatever it wants. Generally it directs heat directly onto the driver’s right foot only, regardless of any setting. I consider this to be a safety issue when the temperature is in the 90's and heat is pouring into the cabin. Also, there are NO replacement parts available currently, and the dealers worldwide don't know when they'll be available.
Anyone else have a similar problem?
Anyone know where I could find this digital push button part?

#19366 of 30250 silverprincess by allano

Aug 06, 2002 (3:11 pm)

Try alcohol for tree sap and then wash the alcohol off with a very mild soap (for hands, not dishes) and water. I think water and mild soap will also take off bugs -- just get them wet enough, i.e. several passes. A polish/wax like Megulars works on bugs also.

#19367 of 30250 Tree sap, Dunlop SP5000's by vkwheels

Aug 06, 2002 (5:19 pm)

I keep those tree sap spots wet enough for them to come off with just a little pressure with a sea sponge or gentle push of a fingernail. I use Eagle One car wash ( & am ordering the Eagle One wheel cleaner to try out ) & I like it, it's cheap & effective. Bird doo--I get it off fast, just with water, maybe a little soap if necessary.
 
I had Dunlop SP5000's before and I liked them.

#19368 of 30250 silver by ccotenj

Aug 07, 2002 (5:58 am)

DON'T use dishwashing detergent!!!! in addition to taking off whatever you are trying to get off, that stuff strips off wax like there is NO tomorrow...
 
any "good name" (i.e. meguiar's, mothers', etc.) cleaning solution will do...
 
-Chris

#19369 of 30250 Repost... by brave1heart

Aug 07, 2002 (10:01 am)

I may wash my car less often than once a month but I do try to get rid of bird dung and tree sap as soon as I spot it. They are so acidy that they eat up into the clearcoat if left for a couple of days. I've never used anything other than water. Once they eat up into the clearcoat, there is not much you can do except have the car buffed I guess...Has anyone had their car buffed? BTW, you may want to consider buying the Absorber, which stays wet for weeks in its plastic casing without rotting.
 
While on this mundane topic, I was wondering if anyone has suggestions about
getting rid of scratches on the bumpers. Some of them are deep enough to require touch-up paint.

#19370 of 30250 European Delivery by ultrarunner

Aug 08, 2002 (8:23 am)

I just received confirmation that I am set for ED on September 19th. Anyone else have the same day?

Messages Page 1937 of 3025

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