Last post on Feb 09, 2013 at 9:37 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Malibu
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Chevrolet Malibu, Sedan
#1287 of 4972 homer29 getting knocked around
Dec 12, 2002 (10:23 pm)
Replacing one of the CV joint boots -- hmmm, was it ripped? If so it would have slung grease all around the surrounding area. Very noticeable. Usually a dry CV joint makes a clicking sound in slow turns, definitely not a clunk. If it were clunking, I doubt the vehicle would be driveable.
Any reputable dealer will attach a Chassis Ear to find the noise source. Heck, I got my own. You hook clamps all over the underside. Each clamp is like a microphone. The closest to the sound is loudest. A couple times like this will zero in on the sound.
Unfortunately, your bad experience is more common that it should be. Like so many car owners, I got so sick of being burned by dealers that I started doing my own car repairs. Once in a while I try out a dealer to see if anything has changed. And I get burned again.
The following TSBs may be helpful.
Suspension - Front/Rear Squawking Noise
File In Section: 03 - Suspension
Bulletin No.: 01-03-08-003A
Date: February, 2002
Squawk Noise from Front and/or Rear Suspension
(Lubricate Stabilizer Bushings)
1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu
1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass
1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero
1999-2002 Pontiac Grand Am
This is being revised to include additional graphics and torque specifications.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-03-08-003 (Suspension).
Some customers may comment on a squawk noise from the front and/or rear suspension while driving.
The noise may be due to a slip/stick condition between the front and/or rear stabilizer bushings.
Follow the service procedure below and lubricate the front and/or rear stabilizer bushings with Special Lubricant High Temperature, P/N 12345879 (in Canada, use P/N 10953511).
Service Procedure for Front Suspension
1. Raise and support the vehicle allowing the front suspension to hang free. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle (SI2000 Document ID # 632491) in the General Information sub-section of the Service Manual.
2. Remove the stabilizer shaft links. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement (SI2000 Document ID # 635842) in the Front Suspension sub-section of the Service Manual.
3. Support the rear of the crossmember with an adjustable jack stand.
4. Remove the rear bolts from the crossmember.
5. Remove the lower control arm rear bolts.
6. Lower the rear of the crossmember with the adjustable jack stand.
7. Remove the power steering line bracket from the suspension crossmember on the right side of the vehicle.
8. Remove the bolts (1) from the insulator brackets (2) attaching the stabilizer shaft (3) to the crossmember (4).
9. Remove the stabilizer shaft insulators and lubricate the entire insulator with Special Lubricant, P/N 12345879 (in Canada, use P/N 10953511).
10. Install the lubricated insulators back onto the stabilizer shaft.
11. Install the insulator brackets (2) and the bolts (1) to the stabilizer shaft (3).
Tighten the bolts to 69 N.m (51 lb ft).
12. Install the power steering line bracket from the suspension crossmember on the right side of the vehicle.
13. Raise the rear of the crossmember with the adjustable jack stand.
Important :Cross member nuts (1) and (6) are captured nuts.
14. Install the rear lower control arm bolts (3) through the crossmember.
Tighten the rear lower control arm bolts (3) to 245 Nm (180 lb ft).
15. Install the rear crossmember bolts (2). Tighten
Tighten the rear cross member bolts (2) to 70 N.m (52 lb ft).
16. Lower the vehicle and road test.
Service Procedure for Rear Suspension.
1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle (SI2000 Document ID # 632491) in the General Information sub-section of the Service Manual.
2. Remove the stabilizer shaft insulator brackets (5) and the nuts (6) from the stabilizer shaft (2).
3. Remove the stabilizer shaft insulators and lubricate the entire insulator with Special Lubricant, P/N 12345879 (in Canada, use P/N 10953511).
4. Install the lubricated insulators back onto the stabilizer shaft.
5. Install the stabilizer shaft insulator brackets (5) to the stabilizer shaft (2) and the nuts (6).
Tighten the stabilizer shaft insulator bracket nuts to 53 N~m (39 lb ft).
6. Lower the vehicle and road test.
Front Suspension - Rattle Noise Diagnosis
File In Section: 03 - Suspension
Bulletin No.: 01-03-08-002
Date: August, 2001
Front Suspension Clunk/Rattle Noise Diagnosis
1998-2001 Chevrolet Malibu (Built After 10/97)
1998-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass
1999-2001 Oldsmobile Alero
1999-2001 Pontiac Grand Am
A number of front suspension lower control arms have been returned to the Warranty Parts Center (WPC). Input regarding these parts indicates replacement corrected front suspension related clunk/rattle type noise concerns. Analysis of these returned components indicates that they were manufactured to design intent and should have performed satisfactorily in the vehicle. It is recommended that when a front lower control arm is suspected to be the cause of a front suspension noise concern, the technician perform the following fastener tightening procedure prior to control arm replacement.
1. Position the vehicle on a level surface at curb height (supported by the tires).
2. Loosen the four lower control arm to front suspension crossmember attaching bolts.
- Tighten the two lower control arm to suspension crossmember front attaching bolts to 60 N.m (45 lb ft) plus 120°rotation.
- Tighten the two lower control arm to suspension crossmember rear attaching bolts to 100 N.m (74 lb ft) plus 180°rotation.
3. Road test vehicle to determine if the noise condition has been corrected.
#1288 of 4972 '04 malibu V6 downrated
Dec 14, 2002 (6:41 am)
Power will not be 240 hp, but 200 hp.
Dec 14, 2002 (11:20 am)
wouldn't wanna give people a good reason to buy the car now would they?
Plus if the Impala has 205hp, they absolutely COULDN'T let the Malibu have more! LOL!
But hey, this 'new' pushrod '3500' motor is supposed to have TWO camshafts isn't it?
#1290 of 4972 Transmission clunk in neutral
Dec 14, 2002 (4:48 pm)
Just my luck found a new clunk while trying to fix a different clunk with the dealer. While test driving the car after having warranty work done we put the car into neutral to quiet the engine to make sure the original clunk was gone. As we slowed in neutral to a stop there was a sudden loud clunk from the transmission. It sounded like a gear change. The tech. in the car had no idea what it was and had never heard it before, although how often is a car in neutral when driving down the road? The car does it consistently only when in neutral and slowing to a stop. The GM tech. doesn't want to touch the thing and is putting a call into GM on Monday to get their opinion. They are worried it might be early stage transmission failure. I honestly can't believe it. The last month with this car has been a disaster. Anyway, wondering if anyone else had this interesting problem arise and what, if anything, did you do about it?
Dec 15, 2002 (6:39 am)
sorry to hear about the tranny, this is so weird, cause it's the last thing Bu owners would complain about. How many miles you got on it?
#1292 of 4972 Clunk in neutral
Dec 15, 2002 (8:08 am)
I would say that is normal,the computer is confused with the transmission in neutral and car moving,it goes to default full pump pressure.
#1293 of 4972 3.5L
Dec 15, 2002 (8:13 am)
Frankly I was doubtful that there would be 240 hp.
The 3.6L DOHC motor in the CTS will have 260 hp. So why would they go to all that expense when a pushrod motor would have only 20 hp less.
Also the malibu has the 4T45E transmission they would have had to put the 4T65HD in to handle 240 hp.
#1294 of 4972 Transmission clunk
Dec 15, 2002 (11:47 am)
Bu has only 6000 miles on it. I'll post an update on the transmission as soon as they decide what to do with it.
#1295 of 4972 Transmission clunk and gear problem
Dec 15, 2002 (1:36 pm)
I have that same noise when I slow down in neutral with the engine running. It is no big deal, or at least has not caused me any big problems... yet. I just don't use neutral to stop with. My car has always done it, we got it with 21000 miles on it.
Sometimes, my gear selector will actually get stuck. On cold days when I first start the car, I can't take it out of gear, or it is very difficult to take it out of gear. Instead of using just my thumb, I literally have to grab it and push with the palm of my hands. Or just let the car warm up, then it is normal, perfectly normal. It just started that, recently, I have 115400 miles on my car now. It's a 98
Dec 15, 2002 (1:46 pm)
I am looking at a new car for my wife and the Chevrolet Malibu LS have come up in my search. I'm also looking at the Hyundai Sonata LX, Chysler Sebring LXI, and the Ford Taurus SEL. Which car offers the best reliability, performance, accommodations, safety, value and resale? My wife's current car is a 2000 Chevrolet Prizm LSI. This car has been very reliable although it is a bit tight on room. I would like a car that can match the Prizm's reliability. I have also been looking at the Toyota Camry and Honda Accord too but they don't seem to match the content of the other automobiles, plus there aren't any deals so far on these two cars. These would be the top reliability cars. But I'll put them into the mix, since they are good choices.
Which of these 6 cars is the best in your opinion?The Malibu sparks my interest since GM is redesigning it next year. Therefore, Chevy is making some great deals.