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Volkswagen Jetta 2005 and earlier

12742 messages,  Last post on Oct 06, 2009 at 1:33 PM

You are in the Volkswagen Jetta Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens

What is this discussion about? Volkswagen Jetta, Sedan


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#12608 of 12742
Re: stereo help [gatz84] by jettabiker
Aug 21, 2005 (4:51 pm)
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Replying to: gatz84 (Aug 08, 2005 7:37 am)

On my Jetta (99.5 4th Gen) the radio display reads "CODE" after you cut battery power. You have two trys to input the correct code using the station preset buttons 1-4, if you don't get the code right it locks down for one hour.
 
That one hour is time with the ignition key in the on position which means you need to drive the car for an hour. Once the code is correct your radio will go back to normal operation. This should all be in your owners manual, again your 3rd gen may have a different code system.
 
Hope this helps,
Abraham
#12609 of 12742
99.5 4th Gen C.E. Light by jettabiker
Aug 21, 2005 (4:58 pm)
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Hi everyone, new member and first time VW owner. I've been quite happy with my Jetta until I've had a mysterious check engine light I can't seem to beat. I took it in for a free AutoZone scan and they diagnosed it as bad primary AND secondary O2 sensors.
 
I picked up two new sensors from the dealer and installed them both without any trouble, yet the CEL persisted. I had the codes cleared by my friendly local non-dealer import mechanic, who found a very cracked vacuum line from my brake booster to the back of the intake plenum. This line is about 1/2" I.D. and has a built-in check valve. This leak was very noticable and in hindsight I could hear it in the car with the windows up.
 
I STILL have a CEL showing even after the line was replaced and codes cleared... still shows up as a lean condition, I forget the exact error code #. Should I just spring for the VAG-COM and start clearing and reading them myself or is there some other common part that's prone to failure?
 
Any assistance would be appreciated, thanks ahead of time,
Abraham
#12610 of 12742
Re: Overheating in 95 Jetta III 130K [boombasticata] by p100
Aug 22, 2005 (7:29 pm)
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Replying to: boombasticata (Aug 18, 2005 9:39 am)

I had a similar thing happen with my 99 Mazda 626 V6. The car ran fine at high speeds and A/C was blowing cold. Then as I slowed down and sat in traffic, the temperature gauge shot up and my A/C quit working. As I accelerated to a higher speed, the temperature went down and A/C started working properly again.
 
What I discovered was this: There are two electric fans in this car. They both turn on and run when the A/C is on. I noticed that one of them, the A/C condenser cooling fan, was not running. One fan out was enough to cause the car to run hotter (no overheating , no steam, etc), and for the A/C to shut down due to higher coolant temperature.
 
I unpluged the subject fan harness connector, and connected a 12 volt battery to the terminals. The fan motor turned on. So the fan was good. Next step was to check the A/C fuse and relay. they were OK. Next I found out where the condenser fan realy was. That was my problem. Something was rattling inside the relay. $ 10 for a new relay and everything is back the normal. Each electric fan on this car has its own relay. The A/C was shutting down when the coolant temperature rose to high level. I guess this is built-in protection feature in the system.
 
I hope this helps a bit in your case. You can test the fan easily by using two leads, connecting them to a 12 V battery and connecting the leads to the fan harness plug terminals. If the fan motor is good, it will turn on.
You can also test the relay by using an ohmmeter and a 12 Volt battery source. You just need to know which terminals to check the continuity on in both energized and deenergized position. A shop manual helps here.
#12612 of 12742
buying aa 2005 jetta 2.5a by lukef3
Sep 04, 2005 (11:13 am)
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yeaterday, i put down a deposit on a jetta 2.5 .got in the car with the salesperson and check engine light went on when i put it in drive car jumped and changing to other gears the same. he had it checked out and told me transmission sensor needed to be changed but no 2005 specialist available so it is buying me a couple of days to decide....not sure what to make of this or if he is even telling me the truth, does this sound like a big problem or a reason to walk away ,,,this is the last 2005 automatic on their lot and wonder if this is reason
#12614 of 12742
Water Leak in Passat by dpas
Oct 25, 2005 (2:59 pm)
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I have a '99 Passat which leaks in the driver side floor when it rains or even when I wash my car. Water is not visible at first, but it collects under the carpeting and soaks the floor after a big rain. I try to never leave it in the rain now and take care washing it, but I have already sustained damage to the electrical systems including the power door locks and the fuel door lock release button. I paid VW dealer $340 for diagnostic work to tell me that the comfort module (which is under the left driver's side foot panel) was submerged in water. Further diagnostic would be expensive and I decided not to pursue. Anyone experience similar problems?
#12615 of 12742
Re: Water Leak in Passat [dpas] by bpeebles
Oct 25, 2005 (4:27 pm)
Reply

Replying to: dpas (Oct 25, 2005 2:59 pm)

Do you have sunroof -- and if so, make sure its drain-hoses are clear. The most common reason for water on the floor is plugged-up drain-hose for the sunroof.
#12616 of 12742
Re: Overheating in 95 Jetta III 130K [p100] by 600kgolfgt
Oct 26, 2005 (3:45 am)
Reply

Replying to: p100 (Aug 22, 2005 7:29 pm)

On the Jetta III, There's only one electric fan. The second one is driven by a small drive belt attached to the first fan. If the drive belt is missing, you have found the problem.
#12617 of 12742
Re: 99.5 4th Gen C.E. Light [jettabiker] by bpeebles
Oct 26, 2005 (3:51 am)
Reply

Replying to: jettabiker (Aug 21, 2005 4:58 pm)

A CEL along with "lean condition" is most often the MAF (Mas AirFlow sensor)
 
The good news is that your 99.5 MAF is covered by an extended warantee for 7years 70,000 miles. Any VW dealership should honor that factory warantee.
 
They will have to hook your car up to their diagnostic computer and if the MAF is the problem... everything is FREE OF CHARGE. Obviously, if they find some other issue that is NOT the MAF, they will charge you for the diagnosis.

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