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Dodge Stratus
423 messages, Last post on Aug 28, 2008 at 1:11 PM
You are in the Dodge Stratus Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: goodrichsound (Jul 08, 2006 10:11 am) To begin, check your spark plugs and spark plug wires. Are they damaged, oil fouled, too far a spark gap, too close a spark gap, wrong size, is there pitting, eroded spark plugs, are the probes burnt or carbon coated. Because this can reduce proper igntion, increase fuel consumption, and decreased engine efficency and power. Are these plugs designated for summer or winter use? "Hot plugs" are used in the winter and "cold plugs" are used in the summer. "Hot plugs" get hot during igntion and shouldn't be used in the summer because it can lead to overheating if driving an extended period of time. Short distances don't really need to worry. "Cold plugs" run cold during summer to prevent overheating, but can't be used during winter because the engine won't start because its too cold for igntion. Also, stay within 1 or 2 grades of the current plugs in your car or engine damage will occur. If it is a "3" cold plug, change it to a "2" cold plug or in the winter go to a "0" plug or "1" Hot plug. Next, is the fan belt or timing belt somewhat loose or has the insides of the belt chewed up? Even though it has a tensioner, the engine's timing and valves can get really screwed up all because of a stupid timing belt that doesn't last worth a damn. I don't know why they don't just stick to timing chains instead, unless they want you to destroy the engine and make you spend even more cash on parts. Third, how powerful is the starter motor? If it is getting weaker than what it should usually run, maybe it needed momentum to crank the engine, and once there is gas in the cylinders, maybe all the engine has to do is rely on the igntion system to fire the engine up and it'll kick right over. Unfortunately, this problem may start flooding the cylinders and overpower the engine, leading to more damage. Fourth, how powerful is your fuel pump and is there any restrictions in your fuel delivery/ fuel return system? does the fuel system leave air in the lines and this leaves you to "bleed" the lines everytime by throttling up before starting the car? Because, later on, this can lead to even more problems with your fuel system and may eventually end up making the vehicle fail emissions inspections since it is either using too much gas or burning too much fuel to allow the car to run, or not properly burning the fuel at all. Continuing on the fuel problems, is there a leak in your fuel lines? Does the car deliver hesistation problems, stalling, bucking, that sort of thing? Is the fuel pump regulator operating properly? Smell the area around the muffler after vehicle startup. If the regulator is broken, the muffler will spew a bad odor of gas out the back. If it fails, it has problems starting up all by itself and will need a gentle tap on the gas to start up. Unfortunately, the car will run rich because the fuel pressure regulator can't reduce the fuel flow the powerful fuel pump is delivering and just makes more unburned fuel go out the exhaust pipe. BMWs have the same problem since they have Bosch continuous flow digital fuel injection. Dodge doesn't have continuous flow, but rather, standard digital fuel injection which relies on fuel injector pulses. This system is not as efficient as in a BMW, but lasts just long enough for average American mileage. Also, how long are you leaving the car to sit before starting it or driving it? If you are driving it, how many miles are you putting on it a year and how many owners and drivers before you had this car and were they abusing it? Are you allowing this car to warm up before driving it? What kind of engine oil are you putting in it? Are you using only 10W-30 for normal driving or are you putting mostly 10W-30 and a little 10W-40 for low mileage driving or stop and go driving? |
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Replying to: gonogo (May 11, 2006 12:03 pm) |
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| I have a 2000 ES V6 and now I am unable to start my car. Every time i turn the keys to start the car the start/ignition fuse will blow, the only thing that will happen is the lights and stuff inside turn on...is it's bad wiring inside, a short circut? | |
My 2001 Dodge stratus SE with 2.7 V6, overheated on me yet again. This time it smoked, all my mechanic friends say its the thermostat. It has many other problems, an oil light flashing when I stop as well as a ticking sound when I stop. The RPM meter does not work. The Radio also doesn't work and the ac only works on high. I have taken it to many dealers for repair. I need help! What is wrong with my car?
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Replying to: mamatb (Jul 17, 2006 3:36 pm) Thanks |
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While my 97 Stratus has always had a bit of a spongy effect when hitting the brakes, recently during hard stops, the peddle has sunk nearly to the floorboard partway thru braking, increasing stopping distance. This is only occurring while braking from, say, 60 mph to a stop. Not getting this 'effect' when braking up to 40 mph. It's like the brakes work fine braking from 60 down to 20 mph, then the pedal suddenly depresses without any further braking! Fortunetly, that last inch before the pedal bottoms out against the floorboard stops the car. I did have the brake power booster replaced around 2 years ago, this feels eerily similar... Anyone got any thoughts or experience on this??? thanks! |
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My daughter purchased a 1999 Stratus a couple of days ago (first car for her). Today she noticed a blinking red light on the instrument cluster that has no insignia of what it indicates (like the oil can indicating the oil light). It's just a red light. It is located at about 1 o'clock above the temperature gauge. Could this indicate that the anti-theft protection is engaged, or if not, what is it? Thanks for any help you can give me.
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Replying to: zephon (Aug 01, 2006 5:45 pm)
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got in the car this morning turned the ignition and ... nothing.. thought it was the battery but lights radio etc. worked fine. didn't go to work cuz no transportation. my dad spent about 4 hours trying to figure out what it was.. (checking starter, battery etc.) then i found this site and read a post about PCM FUSE (# 5) located under the hood (power distribution center) found that it was burned out, replaced it with the spare (found on the interior driver side fuse box). so far its been fine.. ill post again when it happens, from what i've read its bound to be sooner than later. hope this helps we were the first owner of this car and always had regular tune up and maintenance. but still had similar problems described by other dodge owners.. head gasket, banging noise from breaks, oil leaks etc.. but is still in very great shape. car has about 70,000 miles and maybe spent $3,000 in over-all repairs. lucky, today was the first time it did the "no start" issue.. but i'm not gonna wait around for the problems to get worse, last time i buy a dodge. |
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Replying to: joeca603 (Aug 02, 2006 2:12 pm) |
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