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Dodge Stratus

423 messages,  Last post on Aug 28, 2008 at 1:11 PM

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What is this discussion about? Dodge Stratus, Sedan


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#299 of 423
Re: 2001 Stratus [goodrichsound] by joyrider147
Jul 09, 2006 (4:04 am)
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Replying to: goodrichsound (Jul 08, 2006 10:11 am)

The problem doesn't seem to be the remote starter since it is attempting to start the vehicle, but what you have to go through with the remote may be the same what you have to go through with trying to manually start the car, right? Your car is automatic transmission and you are trying to start the vehicle in PARK or NEUTRAL, right? Because if you're trying to start the car in any forward gear selection or REVERSE, your neutral safety switch is shot and needs replacement to say the least. Overall, I would not recommend using the remote starter to start the vehicle anymore as this will damage it until the problem is fixed. Also, try starting it in NEUTRAL and see if it is easier to start. Although your clutch may "clunk" sometimes because you took the load off of the clutch assembly to shift into neutral before starting, hey it may slow down damage to the engine.
       To begin, check your spark plugs and spark plug wires. Are they damaged, oil fouled, too far a spark gap, too close a spark gap, wrong size, is there pitting, eroded spark plugs, are the probes burnt or carbon coated. Because this can reduce proper igntion, increase fuel consumption, and decreased engine efficency and power. Are these plugs designated for summer or winter use? "Hot plugs" are used in the winter and "cold plugs" are used in the summer. "Hot plugs" get hot during igntion and shouldn't be used in the summer because it can lead to overheating if driving an extended period of time. Short distances don't really need to worry. "Cold plugs" run cold during summer to prevent overheating, but can't be used during winter because the engine won't start because its too cold for igntion. Also, stay within 1 or 2 grades of the current plugs in your car or engine damage will occur. If it is a "3" cold plug, change it to a "2" cold plug or in the winter go to a "0" plug or "1" Hot plug.
       Next, is the fan belt or timing belt somewhat loose or has the insides of the belt chewed up? Even though it has a tensioner, the engine's timing and valves can get really screwed up all because of a stupid timing belt that doesn't last worth a damn. I don't know why they don't just stick to timing chains instead, unless they want you to destroy the engine and make you spend even more cash on parts.
     Third, how powerful is the starter motor? If it is getting weaker than what it should usually run, maybe it needed momentum to crank the engine, and once there is gas in the cylinders, maybe all the engine has to do is rely on the igntion system to fire the engine up and it'll kick right over. Unfortunately, this problem may start flooding the cylinders and overpower the engine, leading to more damage.
    Fourth, how powerful is your fuel pump and is there any restrictions in your fuel delivery/ fuel return system? does the fuel system leave air in the lines and this leaves you to "bleed" the lines everytime by throttling up before starting the car? Because, later on, this can lead to even more problems with your fuel system and may eventually end up making the vehicle fail emissions inspections since it is either using too much gas or burning too much fuel to allow the car to run, or not properly burning the fuel at all.
    Continuing on the fuel problems, is there a leak in your fuel lines? Does the car deliver hesistation problems, stalling, bucking, that sort of thing? Is the fuel pump regulator operating properly? Smell the area around the muffler after vehicle startup. If the regulator is broken, the muffler will spew a bad odor of gas out the back. If it fails, it has problems starting up all by itself and will need a gentle tap on the gas to start up. Unfortunately, the car will run rich because the fuel pressure regulator can't reduce the fuel flow the powerful fuel pump is delivering and just makes more unburned fuel go out the exhaust pipe.
     BMWs have the same problem since they have Bosch continuous flow digital fuel injection. Dodge doesn't have continuous flow, but rather, standard digital fuel injection which relies on fuel injector pulses. This system is not as efficient as in a BMW, but lasts just long enough for average American mileage.
     Also, how long are you leaving the car to sit before starting it or driving it? If you are driving it, how many miles are you putting on it a year and how many owners and drivers before you had this car and were they abusing it? Are you allowing this car to warm up before driving it? What kind of engine oil are you putting in it? Are you using only 10W-30 for normal driving or are you putting mostly 10W-30 and a little 10W-40 for low mileage driving or stop and go driving?
#300 of 423
Fuel Injector Problem (again) by sad04stratus
Jul 09, 2006 (6:52 am)
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Replying to: gonogo (May 11, 2006 12:03 pm)

YET ANOTHER PROBLEM... my car has been idling rough since my fuel injectors were cleaned, but the dealer said they couldnt feel that rough idle (all in my head I guess)... so had the injectors cleaned out (this was a couple months ago).... going to work on Friday, I pull out and my check engine light comes on, and I'm like well what for now? and then my car starts jerking severely, can't go above 30mph, SMOKE coming out the exhaust, and this horrible smell. So I made to work barely, had to have it towed to the dealer because it died in the parking lot, then the dealer looks at it and says my injectors were so clogged (again?!) and they stuck were wide open and gasoline was just running right thru my system and the smoke coming out the exhaust was burning fuel. So now they say its STILL FROM A BAD TANK OF GAS THAT I GOT IN JANUARY???? So now I have to pay for new injectors, and to have my gas tank cleaned out. They also told me that I could have exploded in my own car due to the gasoline everywhere. All of this is not under warranty of course. Does anyone believe that this is from a bad tank of gas or from a manufacturer defect? I'm calling Dodge on Monday and I'm gonna raise hell. I love my car and its been nothing but problems this year with the same thing. I have to pay to get it fixed and then I don't want this car anymore, its a little over 2 years old, warranty is up in November. Its gone this week, as soon as its fixed. Does anyone else agree to get rid of it? Or try to stick it out??? Thanks... (again)
#301 of 423
blown fuses by nanner1
Jul 16, 2006 (11:23 am)
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I have a 2000 ES V6 and now I am unable to start my car. Every time i turn the keys to start the car the start/ignition fuse will blow, the only thing that will happen is the lights and stuff inside turn on...is it's bad wiring inside, a short circut?
#302 of 423
Overheating by mamatb
Jul 17, 2006 (3:36 pm)
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My 2001 Dodge stratus SE with 2.7 V6, overheated on me yet again. This time it smoked, all my mechanic friends say its the thermostat. It has many other problems, an oil light flashing when I stop as well as a ticking sound when I stop. The RPM meter does not work. The Radio also doesn't work and the ac only works on high. I have taken it to many dealers for repair. I need help! What is wrong with my car?
#303 of 423
Re: Overheating [mamatb] by lschock
Jul 17, 2006 (5:20 pm)
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Replying to: mamatb (Jul 17, 2006 3:36 pm)

I have a Grand Am and last summer my AC only worked on Med- to high. Now it only works on the highest setting. If someone emails you back and you please forward me the email?
 
Thanks
#304 of 423
Spongy brake pedal depression by billwfriend
Jul 27, 2006 (6:41 am)
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While my 97 Stratus has always had a bit of a spongy effect when hitting the brakes, recently during hard stops, the peddle has sunk nearly to the floorboard partway thru braking, increasing stopping distance.
 
This is only occurring while braking from, say, 60 mph to a stop. Not getting this 'effect' when braking up to 40 mph. It's like the brakes work fine braking from 60 down to 20 mph, then the pedal suddenly depresses without any further braking! Fortunetly, that last inch before the pedal bottoms out against the floorboard stops the car.
 
I did have the brake power booster replaced around 2 years ago, this feels eerily similar...
 
Anyone got any thoughts or experience on this???
 
thanks!
#305 of 423
New to Stratus by zephon
Aug 01, 2006 (5:45 pm)
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My daughter purchased a 1999 Stratus a couple of days ago (first car for her). Today she noticed a blinking red light on the instrument cluster that has no insignia of what it indicates (like the oil can indicating the oil light). It's just a red light. It is located at about 1 o'clock above the temperature gauge. Could this indicate that the anti-theft protection is engaged, or if not, what is it? Thanks for any help you can give me.
#306 of 423
Re: New to Stratus [zephon] by joeca603
Aug 02, 2006 (2:12 pm)
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Replying to: zephon (Aug 01, 2006 5:45 pm)

blinking red light on top right corner indicates anti-theft is arming. and will blink slowly indicating it is armed. No need to worry its doing what its suppose to.. when and if the light stays on...it means problem in electrical system. be advised this car is very attractive but is costly.. and make sure all RECALL maintance has been performed.. (alot) i advise u do furthur research and find out what other owners are saying..
#307 of 423
99 stratus "no start" issue resolved by joeca603
Aug 02, 2006 (2:39 pm)
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got in the car this morning turned the ignition and ... nothing.. thought it was the battery but lights radio etc. worked fine. didn't go to work cuz no transportation. my dad spent about 4 hours trying to figure out what it was.. (checking starter, battery etc.)
then i found this site and read a post about PCM FUSE (# 5) located under the hood (power distribution center) found that it was burned out, replaced it with the spare (found on the interior driver side fuse box). so far its been fine.. ill post again when it happens,
from what i've read its bound to be sooner than later. hope this helps
 
we were the first owner of this car and always had regular tune up and maintenance. but still had similar problems described by other dodge owners.. head gasket, banging noise from breaks, oil leaks etc.. but is still in very great shape. car has about 70,000 miles and maybe spent $3,000 in over-all repairs. lucky, today was the first time it did the "no start" issue.. but i'm not gonna wait around for the problems to get worse, last time i buy a dodge.
#308 of 423
Re: New to Stratus [joeca603] by zephon
Aug 02, 2006 (6:11 pm)
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Replying to: joeca603 (Aug 02, 2006 2:12 pm)

Thankyou, I suspected as much. And I will be sure to check into the recall maintenance issues, or barring that, read through this forum to learn what to be on the lookout for.

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