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Toyota Camry 2006 and earlier

8427 messages, Last post on Nov 03, 2009 at 8:43 AM
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Replying to: powaybill (Jun 22, 2009 10:31 am) You don't give any important info like how many miles do you have on the vehicle, whether you've changed the brake fluid, and most importantly whether you've replaced the front pads. The pistons in brake calipers, are meant to float. When you apply the brakes, the pressure behind them force them out, to apply pressure to the pads to squeeze the rotor. When you take your foot off the brake, the slight variance in the rotor spinning should press/vibrate against the piston, allowing it to float back in. As the brake pads wear, the piston's normal working range is further and further out of the cylinder. What can typically happen, is after a couple of years and if you don't flush brake systems, is that the brake fluid absorbs moisture and crud. That moisture settles behind the piston in the front calipers where it's hottest (they do the most braking), and can pit the cylinder wall. If you then eventually change the disc pads, the installer squeezes the piston back in to the caliper to enable the now thicker brake pad to be put in. When the piston moves back into the cylinder, the wall being pitted and the crud behind the piston jams up the piston, so that it doesn't 'float' freely any more. So when you put the brake on the high pressure is able to overcome this resistance and the piston pushes out applying the brakes. However, the piston doesn't float back in when you take your foot off the brake. So then your pads are always rubbing, and the rotor overheats and expands. When it expands, the pads grip it even tighter, causing it to overheat and expand even more. I think you'll find when you have this problem, that if you smell the front rims they'll have that overheating brake smell, and they will be VERY hot. Be careful you don't get burnt in touching them. The fix is to replace the calipers, which is relatively cheap. I also replace the rotors and pads on my vehicles, as the rotor when it gets hot like that will warp and you'll have pulsating brake pedal later, and the pads are usually worn out. All of those parts are cheap to replace now adays, so to me it makes sense to just go ahead and replace everything and be sure to completely flush/bleed the system with new hydraulic fluid.
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Replying to: kiawah (Jun 22, 2009 4:04 pm) |
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| I'm installing a Draw Tite light duty hitch on my 2003 Camry. The two driver side welded nuts either don't have threads or they are so rusted they are nearly gone. I tried to drill and tap the threads on one and really screwed it up. The hole in the nut is now bigger that the 7/16 bolt. What now? Can I tap it for a 1/2 bolt. Is there a self tapping bolt I can use?? | |
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I just purchased a 2006 Camry LE (4 cylinder, 41,000 miles) two weeks ago so I'll be hanging out here. I noticed today when I push the rear defroster button, the radio goes "static". I'm assuming that since the antenna is built into the rear window that the defroster is somehow interfering with the radio reception. I can easily take it back to the dealer but wanted to know if this is something I can fix on my own. Thanks
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Replying to: dtownfb (Jun 26, 2009 4:44 pm)
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Replying to: 210delray (Jun 27, 2009 2:09 pm) |
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Replying to: dtownfb (Jun 27, 2009 5:56 pm) |
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Replying to: 210delray (Jun 27, 2009 8:57 pm) |
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Replying to: 210delray (Jun 27, 2009 8:57 pm)
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Replying to: 210delray (Jun 27, 2009 8:57 pm) |
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