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Sedans Toyota Camry Toyota Camry 2006 and earlier
8427 messages, Last post on Nov 03, 2009 at 8:43 AM
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Replying to: wwest (Nov 28, 2008 9:38 am)
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Replying to: rearwheeldrive (Dec 04, 2008 8:10 pm) As for getting the filter off, contrary to wwest's assertion, I CAN do this consistently every time with my Nissan Frontier's oil filter. It's hard to get a wrench on the filter due to its location, but I've found with rubber gloves on, I can get enough leverage on the filter to get it to come off. And no, it does not leak oil from the filter base -- I do have some slight leakage from the 10+ year-old oil pan gasket though. |
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Replying to: rearwheeldrive (Dec 04, 2008 8:10 pm) More than an "ounce of prevention"....?? Usually requires a wrench to get it off too. |
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At 86,000 miles I had the timing belt replaced on my 2001 Camry V6, as part of general maintenance. The invoice noted that timing belt tensioner bolt froze, and needed to be removed to replace the timing belt, The technician noted "can't heat bolt, so cut bolt, drilled out bolt, retap threads and installed new bolts." After driving the car for 2600 miles, it died and had to be towed to the dealership that did the original job. They said they found a "failed crank sensor" which they replaced. The invoice said the following were also replaced: tensioner assembly for the timing belt, thread insert, and bolt. Do you think the original job was not done correctly or is it just a coincidence that what was fixed the second time had do do with the timing belt. Thanks in advance for your response.
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Replying to: seattletwodogs (Jun 09, 2009 11:16 am)
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Replying to: 210delray (Jun 09, 2009 5:37 pm) Thank you for confirming my wife's and my initial gut reaction. We appreciate your response. |
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[Posted in the wrong forum. My apologies, but I can't see a way to move it myself.] Well at least I think it is a brake issue. Here's what happens. In the morning the brakes are either soft or normal (haven't figured out why the difference), as I drive to work and make the stops along the way the pedal starts to tighten up to the point of me barely touching the pedal and it is as if I were trying to do a quick stop. Once it gets to this point whenever I take my foot off the gas it is as if I were braking, and I haven't touched the brakes. Sometimes this condition will correct itself while driving and other times I am forced to stop the vehicle and turn it off in order to continue down the road. This seems to be getting more and more problematic. I've checked the brake fluid and it is fine. All other indications are that everything is normal from my visual inspection (albeit an untrained eye). So that I am not spending time with the dealer in trying to figure out what is wrong what things come to mind as to what is going on. I've thought of the master cylinder, but thought that it would be more consistent in is symptoms. I've thought there could be air in the lines, but everything I have read indicates that the brakes would be continually soft, which makes sense because the the ability to compress air. As I was looking into this I found that the car probably has proportioners, and this seemed to be a good fit for the issue. Could any of you give me some further insight so that I can get this resolved with the dealer in short order? Thanks so much!
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Replying to: powaybill (Jun 22, 2009 10:31 am) You don't give any important info like how many miles do you have on the vehicle, whether you've changed the brake fluid, and most importantly whether you've replaced the front pads. The pistons in brake calipers, are meant to float. When you apply the brakes, the pressure behind them force them out, to apply pressure to the pads to squeeze the rotor. When you take your foot off the brake, the slight variance in the rotor spinning should press/vibrate against the piston, allowing it to float back in. As the brake pads wear, the piston's normal working range is further and further out of the cylinder. What can typically happen, is after a couple of years and if you don't flush brake systems, is that the brake fluid absorbs moisture and crud. That moisture settles behind the piston in the front calipers where it's hottest (they do the most braking), and can pit the cylinder wall. If you then eventually change the disc pads, the installer squeezes the piston back in to the caliper to enable the now thicker brake pad to be put in. When the piston moves back into the cylinder, the wall being pitted and the crud behind the piston jams up the piston, so that it doesn't 'float' freely any more. So when you put the brake on the high pressure is able to overcome this resistance and the piston pushes out applying the brakes. However, the piston doesn't float back in when you take your foot off the brake. So then your pads are always rubbing, and the rotor overheats and expands. When it expands, the pads grip it even tighter, causing it to overheat and expand even more. I think you'll find when you have this problem, that if you smell the front rims they'll have that overheating brake smell, and they will be VERY hot. Be careful you don't get burnt in touching them. The fix is to replace the calipers, which is relatively cheap. I also replace the rotors and pads on my vehicles, as the rotor when it gets hot like that will warp and you'll have pulsating brake pedal later, and the pads are usually worn out. All of those parts are cheap to replace now adays, so to me it makes sense to just go ahead and replace everything and be sure to completely flush/bleed the system with new hydraulic fluid.
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Replying to: kiawah (Jun 22, 2009 4:04 pm) |
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