Last post on Apr 07, 2013 at 8:10 AM
You are in the Toyota Camry
What is this discussion about?
Toyota Camry, Oil, Sedan
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#8373 of 8465 Re: 2006 Camry SE I4 - Need oil change guidance [210delray]
Nov 24, 2008 (5:04 pm)
Oil change problems
I gave my car procedure with only a wrench. His experience will differ slightly. He will need those other tools, in the previous post you gave. My filter wrench is a heavy steel with a spring loaded fingers that open to size of filter then grab on as you turn it to the left. The normal extensions and a rachet are needed though to use it. Its 3/8 drive. It never slips, bends, or breaks like the wrenches. Another thing like you said If the oil pan bolt faces the left side of the car I guess you could use your foot to loosen it. If its the other way around your pulling with both arms toward the front to get it loose, much harder. Our guy at Toyota used to use both hands and really press on the bolt when tightening it. He was 6'2 200# standing under the car when he did this.Crazy. I always said it only requires 20# torque, not the 45-55 he was applying.
I haven't seen a 2002-2006 engine yet. I know older Toyota's the filters are easy to remove and really accessible. It sounds like he might need to remove that plastic piece. Another tool. 10mm bolts? I remove mine when it is time to find oil leaks under the car. I use a sheet of bathroom wall board, its a plastic sheet a few mil thick, to cover the ground while I monitor it for hours while parked. It wipes clean when done.
Here in Vegas, there is concrete everywhere. The residential streets mostly have sidewalksright on the edge of the street, with drop downs at your driveway. I park in front of the driveway then drive slightly on the sidewalk keeping my tire right on the edge of the curb. I only do this if its a emergency and I cant get my car to my garage on level floor with AC, heat, lighting, and my heavy duty commercial floor jack used in pro garages.
I want to know what the first timer is going to do? To change or not to change. He has more than enough info I think. Dont want him to try the screwdriver hammered through the filter route, if the filter wrench dosnt work.
#8374 of 8465 Re: 2006 Camry SE I4 - Need oil change guidance [rearwheeldrive]
Nov 26, 2008 (6:59 pm)
Kiawah, 210delray, realwheeldrive,
Thanks for your advice. I just finished on oil change and air filter. I'm going to work on cabin filter now but thought I'll take a break (and beer) and reply you all.
Stuff I bought (all prices are approximate):
Oil filter wrench - $3
mechanics tool box - $22
6" wrench extension
Oil drain can $3
Hydraullic Jack - 20
Jack stands - 20
Castrol GTX SAE 5W-30 can - $13
Mechanics gloves - $1
Wheel wedges - $10
Toyota Oil filter - 10
Toyota Air filter - 20
Bosch Cabin air filter - 22
Earlier, I bought short ramps and nearly crashed trying to get my car up. I'd strongly advise against using ramps; hydraulic jack and jack stands are much better and safer.
Everything was as I expected. Except it took less time and was easier than I thought. My old girl is back on her wheels and her whine is replaced with a soft satiated purr.. )
#8375 of 8465 Re: 2006 Camry SE I4 - Need oil change guidance [mcoctopus]
Nov 26, 2008 (10:12 pm)
I don't like store-bought ramps either, so I made my own. I used 2x10's, and drive and park on top of two of them, which gets the car up about 3 inches - plenty of room for me. I nailed and glued them together, and cut angles to make it very easy to drive up the two levels, and used a third one without an angle on top as a stop.
#8376 of 8465 Re: 2006 Camry SE I4 - Need oil change guidance [mcdawgg]
Nov 27, 2008 (10:49 pm)
I hate ramps too. Used them once about 20 years ago, and never went back.
I like the 2x10 idea. I'll have to try it out someday. Congrats on the oil change success. I never use my filter wrench again, but my filter is easy to get to, and spins off by hand.
#8377 of 8465 Re: 2006 Camry SE I4 - Need oil change guidance [rearwheeldrive]
Nov 28, 2008 (9:38 am)
If your filter spins off by hand is probably wasn't tighten correctly/well.....
#8378 of 8465 Re: 2006 Camry SE I4 - Need oil change guidance [wwest]
Dec 04, 2008 (8:10 pm)
I dont use a tool too tighten it, only use my hand. Thats by the book, and thats how I roll.
#8379 of 8465 Re: 2006 Camry SE I4 - Need oil change guidance [rearwheeldrive]
Dec 05, 2008 (6:01 am)
Agree with that. I learned the hard way once by giving it that extra partial turn with a wrench -- never again!
As for getting the filter off, contrary to wwest's assertion, I CAN do this consistently every time with my Nissan Frontier's oil filter. It's hard to get a wrench on the filter due to its location, but I've found with rubber gloves on, I can get enough leverage on the filter to get it to come off.
And no, it does not leak oil from the filter base -- I do have some slight leakage from the 10+ year-old oil pan gasket though.
#8380 of 8465 Re: 2006 Camry SE I4 - Need oil change guidance [rearwheeldrive]
Dec 05, 2008 (10:21 am)
I always make sure the rubber seal is well seated on the filter and I also always lube the surface of the seal with oil. Hand tightening would suffice IMMHO if the oil filter in my RX wasn't so heard to get a grip on, so I always tighten about a 1/4 of a turn with a filter wrench.
More than an "ounce of prevention"....??
Usually requires a wrench to get it off too.
#8381 of 8465 Should tensioner break 2600 miles after timing belt replaced?
Jun 09, 2009 (11:16 am)
At 86,000 miles I had the timing belt replaced on my 2001 Camry V6, as part of general maintenance. The invoice noted that timing belt tensioner bolt froze, and needed to be removed to replace the timing belt, The technician noted "can't heat bolt, so cut bolt, drilled out bolt, retap threads and installed new bolts."
After driving the car for 2600 miles, it died and had to be towed to the dealership that did the original job. They said they found a "failed crank sensor" which they replaced. The invoice said the following were also replaced: tensioner assembly for the timing belt, thread insert, and bolt.
Do you think the original job was not done correctly or is it just a coincidence that what was fixed the second time had do do with the timing belt.
Thanks in advance for your response.
#8382 of 8465 Re: Should tensioner break 2600 miles after timing belt replaced? [seattletwodogs]
Jun 09, 2009 (5:37 pm)
It sounds like the job was botched the first time. I would think you should not have to have paid anything the second time around, except maybe the cost of the crank sensor (part only, not labor).