- #8214 of 8427
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Re: Anyone think their AC is a little weak? [ray_h1]
by wwest
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Aug 09, 2006 (8:24 am)
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Replying to: ray_h1 (Aug 09, 2006 7:36 am)
Actually the more correct or proper procedure, at least initially, would be to turn the system to MAXIMUM COOLING, the blower up to MAX and keep (or return) the system in "fresh" incoming airflow for the first few minutes after the car has sat out in the hot summer sun for an extended period.
That will help to force the HOT, super-heated, atmosphere from the cabin. Lowering the rear windows slightly will also help. If the interior surfaces have been really HEATED, as well they might, it would likely be worthwhile staying in this configuration for the early, brief, portion of your drive.
But once the interior has cooled down you should switch the system to recirculate (but NEVER use this mode coolish or cold climates), and turn the blower to a fairly low speed.
Remember that the longer warm milk remains in the 'frig the colder it becomes. The same is true of the airflow coming from those dash vents, the longer it takes t air to move through the A/C evaporator the cooler it will become.
In recirculate mode the high blower speed would cool the cabin, overall, just as quickly as in low speed, but at low speed "you" will be cooled, and/or feel the effects of cooling, much earlier, more quickly.
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- #8215 of 8427
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Re: 03 Camry LE V6 [ray_h1]
by oracle_of_rock
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Aug 09, 2006 (9:10 am)
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Replying to: ray_h1 (Aug 09, 2006 7:04 am)
Just checked the power steering fluid level (the engine hasn't been run today)and according to the cold level markings, the fluid is right up to the maximum level.
Rick
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- #8216 of 8427
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Re: 03 Camry LE V6 [oracle_of_rock]
by 210delray
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Aug 09, 2006 (11:05 am)
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Replying to: oracle_of_rock (Aug 09, 2006 9:10 am)
BTW, Toyota specifies Dexron III automatic transmission fluid for the power steering system. So a generic is okay, but Ford Type F is not the proper one to use.
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- #8217 of 8427
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Re: Anyone think their AC is a little weak? [wwest]
by lmacmil
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Aug 09, 2006 (2:01 pm)
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Replying to: wwest (Aug 09, 2006 8:24 am)
My Camry SE AC is manual and I do turn the cold to min and the fan to max. Have tried various combinations of recirculate with everything closed and outside air with windows cracked or wide open for the first few minutes.
Drove the wife's Highlander today, which has auto climate control, and my "calibrated" fingers told me that the conditioned air is much colder coming out of the vents than the Camry when both are in re-circulate.
I'm sure part of the Camry issue is the black exterior (the Highlander is gold). Haven't been able to make an apples-to-apples comparion with comparable outside temps. Next time I have it in for service, I will have it checked out.
Thanks for all the comments.
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- #8218 of 8427
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Help with by 99 Camry
by smile1017
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Aug 09, 2006 (2:36 pm)
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I have been asking for help on the "problems" thread for a couple of days and people don't seem to have an answer. To sum it up my 99 4 cyl Camry with 117K miles on it is have trouble. White smoke comes out of the tail pipe at start up. There is no change in the performance (mpg, shifting, engine temperature etc). The car has been serviced regularly and was just in for an oil change about two months (2000 miles) ago. Some mechanics seem to think that it is the head gasket and will cost about $1200-$1300 to fix. If this is a reasonable estimate, I would like to fix it because I am not very appealed by the $30K price tag on the hybrids and the 07 4 cyl seem to have issues.
If the above issue is true, then I have several other smaller issued that I would like help with.
1) I have to put premium gas for it to get the 29-31 mpg. When I put in a lower grad the mileage drops significantly (has not been tested recently - Tested about 4 yrs ago). Is there something I can do or is this normal in the 99 Camry?
2) The fuel tank release is broken and I need a replacement mechanism. Is it easy to replace? Where can I buy the replacement without going through the dealer?
This has been a great car for me. I have had it since day one (January 99) and I would like to keep it for another 3-4 years before buying something else. Please help - this is my first brand new car. I can't believe that it would be dying at 117K. My previous car was an 84 Camry that lasted 19 year and had 179K miles on it when I turned it in and the dealer still gave me $800 for it to buy the 99. I would like to keep the tradition of going over 175K.
Please help.
P.S. If you in the SoCal IE area, please suggest some "trustworthy" toyota specialists other than the dealer. I think the owner of the shop I go to has retired and the new people got me mad because they would not answer my questions like the old guy.
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- #8219 of 8427
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Re: 03 Camry LE V6 [210delray]
by ray_h1
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Aug 10, 2006 (9:26 am)
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Replying to: 210delray (Aug 09, 2006 11:05 am)
The difference between Ford Type F and any GM spec ATF through Dexron III is the total absence of friction modifiers in the Ford fluid versus those in Dexron that are taylored to GM's AT band and clutch friction facings. PS fluids are simply spec'd as hydraulic fluids - which all ATFs easily meet (Honda's excepted). PS fluids carry no requirement for boundary layer friction modifiers since they have no clutch facing materials in their innards that have to be taylored to achieve smooth shifting characteristics*. I wasn't proposing that Ford Type F be sought out, but it is formulated as a general hydraulic fluid and does fully meet the requirements in all PS systems except Honda's and perhaps several European systems. Toyota's specific recommendation for Dexron III is just as, if not more, likely due to its universal availability. Even mom-n-pop gas & snack shops in East Possum Trot can be counted on to have a bottle or two of Dexron III on a shelf.
*Many a drag racer with a beefed-up Powerglide run Ford Type F for one reason and one reason only: solid, spine-breaking shifts when the pedal's to the metal of a blown big-block Chevy "Rat" motor running nitromethane. B&M "TrickShift" ATF is nothing more than relabled and outrageously priced Ford Type F ATF.
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- #8220 of 8427
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Re: Help with by 99 Camry [smile1017]
by ray_h1
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Aug 10, 2006 (9:51 am)
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Replying to: smile1017 (Aug 09, 2006 2:36 pm)
That visible white "smoke" is steam - from vaporized coolant. If it's visible at all, it's past time to merely think about dealing with it. If that were the end of it, it would merely be an annoyance with a requirement to keep the coolant level in the radiator topped up. But, that isn't the end of it. Some of the coolant that's being drawn into one or more cylinders isn't making its way harmlessly out the exhaust pipe. It's being forced past the piston rings in the affected cylinder(s) and into the crankcase where the water and antifreeze condense after shutdown and cool-off as a very insideous form of oil contamination. Ethylene glycol (the "antifreeze" part of antifreeze) has very poor lubricating properties and is VERY corrosive to lead containing bearing materials (main and connecting rod bearings). You NEED to get that problem attended to if you want to save your engine. Once a mechanic gets the cam cover off, you'll soon know whether you have additional problems that era Toyota motor is noted for. Sorry, I don't have any recommendations for you for an honest, competent, Toyota mechanic. I'm sure there are some very good ones around. Jawboning with other Toyota Camry owners in shopping center parking lots may give you some leads, though.
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- #8221 of 8427
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Re: 03 Camry LE V6 [ray_h1]
by 210delray
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Aug 10, 2006 (11:40 am)
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Replying to: ray_h1 (Aug 10, 2006 9:26 am)
Thanks, I didn't know that to the level of detail you provided. So it would technically be okay to mix Dexron III and Ford Type F in the power steering system of a Camry?
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- #8222 of 8427
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Re: Help with by 99 Camry [ray_h1]
by smile1017
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Aug 10, 2006 (11:50 am)
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Replying to: ray_h1 (Aug 10, 2006 9:51 am)
Thanks ray_h1. Unfortunately it was the head gasket. No oil contamination or coolant problem. A little bit of oil leak through old seals cause some over heating that caused the cylinder head to have a little bit of damage, but all the gaskets and seals were shot. They're replacing all the seals and gaskets and refinishing the cylinder. I won't get the car back until next week. At least there was some good news - NO SLUDGE!! Not happy about spending close to $1400 but it's a lot better than needing a new engine or buying a new car. According to the mechanic, other than the 117K miles already on it, the engine will be as good as new. I guess I can try to get to 200K. Thanks for your input.
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- #8223 of 8427
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ray_h1
by pat HOST
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Aug 10, 2006 (12:25 pm)
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ray_h1, you sure provide some great information in our discussions. Thanks very much!!
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