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Toyota Camry, Oil, Sedan
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#7977 of 8465 Sulpher Odor - Constant
Oct 31, 2005 (6:32 am)
Began experiencing odor - garage said "sulpher; broken guage before converter, continually dumping fuel; repaired for $400" -- but still have the issue... Garage said, well, guage was in fact broken; now need to Further explore why still an odor. But they can't determine. Offering to put in on computer evaluation tool again, but that only tells 'the neighborhood' of problem, not 'the exact house.' And they seem to be clueless for even guessing what could be the cause. Has anyone else had such experience? Or have any guesses? [Doubt relevant, but 1997 Toyota Camry; about 72,000 miles] Thanks!...
#7978 of 8465 Re: Sulpher Odor - Constant [ktybluegreen]
Oct 31, 2005 (9:52 am)
Is this a "rotten egg" odor? If so, you may have kissed $400.00 goodbye unnecessarily. The cause of a "rotten egg" odor is high sulfur content in the gasoline. During combustion, the excess sulfur reacts with hydrogen to form hydrogen-sulfide gas. The same gas is formed under different chemistry when raw eggs go bad. Try a tankfull of a different, name-brand gasoline. (In the wake of Katrina and Wilma, some independent gas stations are scarfing up gasoline supply wherever they can with no regard for the quality of the crap they're dispensing. Until the refineries are back up to full production, it would probably be best to stick to major brand gasolines from company-owned or leased stations as a quality hedge. Hydrogen-sulfide gas is no friend to your car's engine - excess bearing chewing acidity in the motor oil.)
#7979 of 8465 Re: Sulpher Odor - Constant [ktybluegreen]
Oct 31, 2005 (2:00 pm)
Haefr answered you perfectly well; I just hope you can get your $400 back, since it looks like your shop goofed big time.
#7980 of 8465 Re: Sulpher Odor - Constant [haefr]
Nov 01, 2005 (10:28 am)
Yes, on the type of odor. In immed. going back to garage saying problem wasn't fixed, they did ask about my gas use. I do predominantly use a 'name brand' gas, though Reg. grade. IF this were the culprit - 1. Would a residue of 'mom & pop' gas hang on so long, even after several refills of 'name brand'? 2. Would upgrading from Reg. to Premium make a difference? Maybe a gas treatment/additive? (Obviously trying would bear that out.) Elsewise, the garage said maybe my car is "just running at the lowest end of the spectrum of "normal" for emission smell." ??? But it really seems unacceptable. Also, if important, the 'Check Eng.' light had been coming on as this issue began, though it was not consistent - and I know such could mean little to nothing. Smell is more evident in climbing hills; using cruise control - but still always evident. Guess gas switch would be my first - well, okay, second - attempt at solution; and least radical. As far as getting a refund - they stand firm that the guage was indeed broken; fact or fiction, I'm not in position to prove differently for all the obvious reasons. And they said, when they first told me of problem, that it didn't Have to be fixed right now, but if I didn't address it, I would only run into a much larger bill down the road as the continual dump of fuel negatively impacted my converter... ?? I feel like I really am at the mercy of mechanics, and don't have a lot of options where I live. Thought I had a good relationship with these folks, could trust them. Do wish I'd come to this Forum first to try easiest fix first - but will now; see what happens...
Also seeing things like coolant issue - mold in air conditioning (did just buy used in Apr. so didn't use air until May/June) - heater core? - inherent TSB (what's that?) issue with Toyota cars? Lemon Law??
Thanks for the feedback!!
#7981 of 8465 Re: Sulpher Odor - Constant [ktybluegreen]
Nov 01, 2005 (11:48 pm)
"1. Would a residue of 'mom & pop' gas hang on so long, even after several refills of 'name brand'? 2. Would upgrading from Reg. to Premium make a difference? Maybe a gas treatment/additive?"
No. Try a different brand gasoline (again, national name, and seek out a company-owned station that is contractually required to purchase its supply from the named U.S. refiner). This problem will pass in a few months or less, but for now car owners will have to be vigilant - especially in the midwest and southwest where wildcat tanktruck drivers might be hauling gasoline of questionable quality into the U.S. from Mexico. If that's happening, (and I'd be willing to bet a month's pension check it is) there's a further possibility these fuel pirates could also be "cutting" the questionable product with an even cheaper gasoline blend equivalent of "hamburger helper" to further hike their profits. Regular, mid-grade, or premium - makes no difference if your car normally operates well on regular. If the regular gasoline is inferior, it'll just as likely be inferior in the other two advertised octane grades, too. You'd just be tossing 10 or 20 cents extra per gallon away. It's the sulfur content in the gasoline itself and no additive will miraculously get rid of that.
#7982 of 8465 From love to Hate - Why Toyota Dealers deserve their poor reputation!
Nov 02, 2005 (8:31 pm)
Well you can count me among the "I HATE TOYOTA" and their dealers club!!! After 37(loyal) years of owning Toyotas (first was a new '69 Corona) I've had it with them. Batteries keep die-ing on my '03 Camry XLE with 14 K miles and the dealer says there is nothing wrong with the electrical system, meanwhile the 3rd battery in one week is now dead! And oh by the way, "since you didn't buy the replacement battery from us we are going to charge you for the diagnostic time spent on the car even though it is under warranty", Huh !?!?! When I (loudly) insist that there is no way I'm paying for diagnostic check, service rep blurts out "you're a complainer. You complained about service when you filled out the Toyota Corp Customer Service card in December 2004!" He tells me that Toyota headquarters sent back my comments to the dealer and it is now on file!!!! (I said that I thought recommending new PCV valve after one year and 6K miles was sneaky since the owner's manual did not call for it and that the dealer's customer service rep did not return my calls.) So hey did any of you know Toyota Corp is doing this AND it would be held against you!. By the way I use the dealer - my car's oil/filter is changed by them every 3-4 months (even though I only drive about 6 K year! at the same dealer I bought it from...) My neighbor who services Audi / Porches advised me that there is definitely an electrical system problem such as Parasidic draw or short circuit which he has tested for. Now it is a question of tracking it down. I am in the process of contacting the Regional Toyota Service office, but don't hold out much hope. Keep you all posted. Needless to say the reputation that Toyota dealers are getting are well deserved! ! !.
#7983 of 8465 Re: From love to Hate - Why Toyota Dealers deserve their poor reputation! [mrsacks]
Nov 03, 2005 (6:05 am)
The obvious retort for the dealer is "Why did you give me something that I had to complain about?"
#7984 of 8465 Re: Camry Steering Problem [joecamry]
Nov 03, 2005 (10:10 am)
I have the same car. I bought it new in 93. I can tell you exactly what it is: On the 93 camry, the hydrolic power steering valve has been known to go after 10 years or 150K miles. I too have had the same problem, but here's a few tips to fix it easily. The valve may not necessarily be broken, it is just worn. To make it easier on the power steering, try adding more air to the tires, and filling the power steering fluid to the top max line. On mine i put 37 PSI in each tire(i have firestones). Your tires may vary. If those few things don't solve the problem, then the only fix is to replace the valve.
If you repair the valve yourself:
The valve is located on the power steering rack/pinion control chamber/bar, located in the middle of the rack, under the car. the valve is connected to the top, on the end of the bar(right end if you are looking at the bar from the front). Before changing, MAKE SURE you drain the existing power steering fluid by removing the pressure adjustment screw with a wrench. After you've done that, remove the valve assembly on top of the bar. The valve is circular, looks a little like a fat spark plug. The valve is available from a Toyota dealer. Unscrew the valve after the lines have been removed. Remove the valve. Insert the new valve and rubber washer into the assembly. Tighten the valve to manufacturer specifications. It might say it in the manual. replace the lines, assembly screws, pressure/drain bolt, and refil the resivior. Start the engine and turn the steering wheel left and right to it's limits, 2 or 3 times to check for proper functioning. You should now have no lock-up of the steering wheel.
#7985 of 8465 2002 Camry TSB # NV01003
Nov 03, 2005 (1:08 pm)
Any one have the TSB details on this...it relates to wind/door noise on the front door. Thanks!
#7986 of 8465 Re: 2002 Camry TSB # NV01003 [andrelaplume]
Nov 03, 2005 (4:44 pm)
You should also try asking in our Technical Service Bulletins discussion ... let us know what you hear.