Last post on Nov 15, 2011 at 5:27 PM
You are in the Hyundai Sonata
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Hyundai Sonata, Fuel Efficiency (MPG), Sedan
#2947 of 2956 2002 Hyundai Sonata Trim levels...
Aug 13, 2008 (7:07 am)
Recently I bought a 2002 Sonata used car with 56K miles... How do you identify whether it is base with V6 or GLS?? Dealer sold me the car as GLS but I doubt it.
The reason is that it has got 15th inch tire, no cassette player, no wood trim, no alloy wheels, no ABS
#2948 of 2956 2005 GLS SV
Mar 24, 2010 (7:32 pm)
06s came out just after I bought my '05 in April of '05.
Low miles, just below 31K.
So far, NO problems, just routine maintenance. (Oh yeah, I dirve with the headlight on all the time and each one burned out after 3.25 years, but that was covered by the warranty!)
Car is still very quite, although a rougher road surface creates minor tire road noise. No squeaks or rattles.
This 6 cyl has less HP than the '11 4 cyl, but it still has plenty juice for pulling into traffic or highway merging. My typical drive is under 4 milels and I still get between 18 and 19.5 mpg on 90% local driving (depending on winter vs warmer weather).
From a reliability and maintenance standpoint, it is the best car I've ever owned. (But the '71 Volvo 1800E I bought new was certainly the most fun.)
#2949 of 2956 6 years and they still can't fix my ignition problems!!??
May 05, 2010 (4:36 pm)
I bought a new 2003 Sonota in the Spring of 2004 when I was stationed in Arizona. My stepson crashed it into a wall that same summer.
I was told the car was $50 short of being totaled (needed to be over $10,000) and the insurance refused to replace it, instead opting to have it repaired. The car has had over $13,000 in repairs including the original repair work since then.
The car was in the dealers bodyshop for 3 months being repaired, the entire front end of the car was smashed in, clear back to the windshield.
6 months after receiving the car back we were traveling from San Diego to Phoenix when the structure around the windshield came apart on the interstate. We took it to the dealership to have it repaired, which the insurance covered under the original claim.
1 year later the car refused to start, it had an aftermarket anti-theft system on it which the dealership had installed and used on their lot and included as part of the deal when I bought the car. I was told the fix for the ignition system was to disable the antitheft system, since it disabled the ignition if someone tried to steal the car. The insurance paid this claim.
1 year after that the car again refused to start, but since I was in the military I had been transferred to Texas and a different dealership had to look at it. I was told there was a faulty brake sensor which for some reason caused the ignition system to fault out? Cost me $200 to have it replaced since the insurance stated the brake sensor was not covered under the original claim (though the ignition problem was, go figure)
Every single year since then it has been the same story, the car runs fine, then all the sudden it wont start. If you wait a couple hours it starts up fine, the ignition system is just locked out for some reason. Every time there is a different code for a different sensor. The insurance company keeps saying its not part of the original claim and I'm wondering if its a design flaw or an insurance fraud claim I can make against the insurance company and the dealership?
My car is currently in the shop again because it wouldn't start. The current code is P0335 for a crankshaft position sensor A circuit. The dealership wants to replace it and charge me $500. The insurance company hasn't said if they will pay it or not since this is an ongoing thing that started on a car I bought new and was crashed months after I bought it and then started having all these problems.
The radio on the car is also on the fritz. Ever since the crash the radio will be off, I will hit a bump and the radio will turn on on its own. Or I will be listening to the radio with no CD in the CD player and the radio will just swap from radio to CD on its own. I hit eject and it goes to the radio for a few seconds and then back to the CD. I found a post with other people having the same problems so this sounds more like a design problem than something associated with the ignition system??
I told the dealership (this time one in Illinois since I was stationed there) that there has been a long history of this ignition problem but they said they can only troubleshoot what they see which is the sensor problem. They said they don't have access to other dealers maintenance records in other states which is in my mind very stupid of Hyundai to do especially for people like me in the military since we move from state to state every couple years.
The technician representative at the dealership told me I needed to be more respectful to him when I talked to him because he said he felt like I was saying it was his fault that the car wasn't being fixed right. I tried to explain that respect is earned and Hyundai and the Statefarm insurance companies actions have not been deserving of any respect on my part. He hung up on me because he didn't want to hear my complaints. What ever happened to customer service representatives handling a customers complaints with a smile? Its not like I yelled at the kid or cussed at him. Even though in my mind I deserve a good venting at the incompetent mechanics and insurance adjusters working on my case.
I'm ready to sue. 5 years to fix an ignition problem is far too long
#2950 of 2956 Re: 6 years and they still can't fix my ignition problems!!?? [jamesw1971]
May 06, 2010 (6:04 am)
I won't attempt to diagnose your problems (aside from a few basic comments) but it appears that since the problems started after a near total of the car something done during extensive repairs is the cause. The car should have been totaled, but that is another story. Is any of this weather related? that is, does damp-wet weather seem to be related to your non-start condition? If, as you say, each time this non-start condition surfaces a different code is logged then maybe the engine management computer is somehow involved?. You want to sue? who and why since Hyundai clearly is trying to fix it but cannot pin down a single cause and I'm guessing you do not want to throw more $$ (parts/labor) at it in the hope a fix will be found by accident. In my opinion this is going to be a gremlin you will chase until A. the car wears out B. you get tired of fooling around and sell or trade or junk it. C. some repair facility gets lucky and stumbles on some part change/electrical connector reseat/ pinched or partially cut wire within a harness or some other thing you will be able to trace back to that original repair. Electrical problems are a horror and yours is compounded by the almost total rebuild of the front of the car. The fact the radio has a mind of its own as well just reinforces my thoughts of a harness/electrical connector. Good luck!!
Aug 17, 2011 (5:48 pm)
Today on the freeway my wife's 2006 (early model) Kia Optima (same as pre-2005 Sonata) had a vibration, fluctuating RPM and then it stalled.When it stalled we saw al lights on the instrument panel light up. No check engine light stayed after staring it again.We drove for a few minutes and it died again.
I opened the hood on the safety lane and checked the battery poles and belts.I could not see anything out of the ordinary. But my wife said a day before a bird flew in front of the car's grille and she found the bird's skeleton at the driveway that evening.
We drove the car home without problem. 15 minutes or so. No check engine light.
What could be the problem?
I am using Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil for almost 8,000 miles now. With synthetic oil my usual oil change interval is 7-8,000 miles usually.
#2952 of 2956 Re: Help! [paterick]
Aug 23, 2011 (1:38 pm)
paterick i have a 01 4cyl. sonata with 189000 m. on it and it has been a great car. to buy one that has been taken care of i dont think u can go wrong. the power issue is if u are going to drag race it dont buy it , if you are close to sane it should do u real good . mine still gets 25-27 mpg on a lond trip and it can get out of its own way. if u can find a v6 mod rl i would go that way but dont be concerned about the 4cyls. om min e i have had to replace both rear wheel bearing packs at 95000. the mech. said that was alittle early but no problems since. be sure when u buy a front wheel drive car have the cv joint boots inspected that they have NO tears because they hold grease for those cv joints, no grease the joints go bad and its 2-300$ per side to fix. so yes i highly recomend hyundais and i am a GM guy. good luck and happy car hunting.
#2953 of 2956 2003 hyundai sonata - keyless entry
Aug 30, 2011 (10:30 pm)
I have 2003 hyundai sonata, my key get damaged and my keyless entry key has no sound, I would like to change the keyless entry system with sound, I mean I am going to change factory system? could you please let me know if it is safe to do so?
Thanks in advance,
#2954 of 2956 Hi-Beams turn on randomly while keys are out of ignition.
Nov 15, 2011 (5:27 pm)
So I just purchased a 2003 Hyundai Sonata GLS and everything has been working as it should. The car is about to have 160,000 miles but is still running great. Today I noticed that my hi-beam was still on when I got out of my car. I toggled it a few times and if finally submitted and turned off (oh I also only have one hi-beam working). Also the headlights do not even seem bright while on normal and driving. So I have been outside working on it and I noticed that my AC unit lights stay on with my bright lights. But when I turn my AC knob past 0 and keep it on 1,2,3, or 4 then I cant turn off my bright lights (key is still out of ignition) I also can turn on my high beams while car is off by turning my AC knob clockwise to the numbers 1,2,3, or 4. It seems to be a short but I have no clue if this is something that happens when one bright light is burnt out or if a relay has gone bad. Any thoughts on this please help me? Thanks for reading.