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Mitsubishi Diamante

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#990 of 1467 tall1-99 Transmission and brakes by vivona Sep 01, 2003 (3:52 pm)
I trust you had the transmission replaced under warranty and at no cost? Did anyone touch it (i.e. replace the fluid) prior to that?   As to the brakes, there is no known design or manufacturing defect that makes a Diamante have brake pulsation every 5-7000 miles. The problem is common with any car with zero-tolerance wheel bearings (a good thing) when a mechanic over torques the wheel lug nuts (almost always). Rather than go into detail here, please read my article at http://www.geocities.com/diamanteowner/article2.htm   35,000 miles is a low mileage to trade, so if you can keep mechanics from using an air impact wrench on your wheel lug nuts and if you trust that the transmission failure was a "fluke" or caused by a mechanic putting the wrong fluid in it (only Mitsubishi brand is called for in the manual), you may want to keep the car and get more out of it before you trade.   If you really have your heart set on the TL, you may be better off with the 2003 model. If you wait for the 2004, you will be getting the first year in a model run and will be subject to all the first year glitches. Look up the technical service bulletins for the 1999 3.2TL (first year of the current design) and you will see the 50 bulletins, some listing issues that may scare you. You can check service bulletins at http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/tsbsearch.cfm   Mr. Vivona
#991 of 1467 by anonymousposts Sep 01, 2003 (4:37 pm)
You will be fine with a 2003 TL in regards to resale value. Even previous generation Accords and TL's still get a pretty penny if they are in good-excellent condition.
#992 of 1467 Thank you Vivona and Anonymousposts by tall1 Sep 01, 2003 (6:43 pm)
My coworker's 99 TL has been troublefree for them and with regard to the transmission in the Diamante; the fluid was the original that came from the factory, I didn't have it changed because it wasn't required. An independent mechanic told me that the brake calipers could also be the root of the pulsation, at any rate, I have been careful not to have my lugnuts tightened by an air wrench and during tire rotations, I watch the mechanic hand tighten the lug nuts. I'm ready for a change but it sure is tough to see how little that my car is worth now!!
#993 of 1467 Well this just in from the News & Views board... by carguy58 Sep 01, 2003 (10:09 pm)
Mitsu has hired the President of Hyundai to run Mitsubishi. Apparently Mitsu fired their previous president because of low sales, and the whole 0/0/0 thing.
#996 of 1467 99 diamante Trunk by marak88 Sep 03, 2003 (9:08 am)
Trunk is hard to close, I almost have to slam it shut, inlike my other cars that I can just push the trunk shut, Is there any adjustment that I can do to my trunk so I can make it easier to shut close?
#997 of 1467 tall1... by timtran Sep 04, 2003 (1:38 am)
Your best bet is to drive the D to the ground. That is what one ought to have in mind when buying a Mitsu product. Blame it on the public's ignorance for its miserable resale value. I also have a 99 D that is running well, and I will hand it down to my son when he reaches 16 next year, instead of trying to resell it. If you wanted to change cars every 3 or 4 years, you would be better off leasing them. If you consider buying the 2003 TL, you may want to look at the 2003 530i which is selling for about three thousands below invoice, thus only a few thousands(<9K) more than the TL. Moving from a D to a TL is not really justifiable. The "ultimate driving machine" on the other hand is a notch above both, and it holds its resale value well. Current stock is dwindling fast...
#998 of 1467 99 diamante Trunk by vivona Sep 04, 2003 (2:07 pm)
marak88 -- A Diamante trunk should close so easily that you think it didn't latch. If you are having to slam yours it could be one of several things:   1. One or more of trunk bumpers could be out of adjustment. The bumpers are rubber bumpers you will see around the sides of the body opening where the trunk lid closes into. They screw up or down as needed to provide a snug fit of the lid. If they are screwed too high, the lid will hit them before the latch fully closes. Lowering the height of the bumpers will allow the latch to close. If you can push the trunk lid down with moderate force and the lid lines up with the top of the rear fenders, then the bumpers are adjusted okay.   2. The striker may not be properly adjusted. The striker is the little loop that the latch closes onto at the bottom of the trunk opening. It is held in place with two screws. If it is adjusted too low, the lid has to be slammed to move the latch down enough to engage the striker. You adjust it by loosening the screws, moving the striker up or down, and re-tightening the screws.   3. Before you try anything else, try this. On the trunk latch there is a little lever that allows you to disable the remote release. It is there if you want to keep your trunk from being opened by someone who has access to the passenger compartment. Switch it to the locked position and see if your problem goes away. Try it this way for a week or so. During that time you will only be able to open your trunk with your key.   If the problem goes away with the latch lever in the lock position, but comes back when it is in the unlocked position, then you may have a trunk remote actuator motor that is sticking. What happens is that you open the trunk with the remote and the motor gears stick and the actuator keeps the latch in the open position. Slamming the trunk lid eventually jars it loose and the trunk closes. The only solution here is to replace the trunk actuator motor/gear assembly. The actuator motor is under the trunk lining on the left side, near the power antenna. The same unit also remotely opens your fuel door. In fact, a way to verify if the actuator motor is the problem is next time the trunk won't close is to push the remote fuel door button on the driver's door. If the trunk then closes easily, that is a good indication that the actuator gearset was stuck in the "trunk open" position. Opening the fuel door reverses the motor and unsticks it. Don't forget to reclose your fuel door.   You can also verify the problem by removing the trunk lid lining and observing if the remote release cable fully extends back immediately after the remote actuator pulls it in to open the trunk. You will probably see that it is still pulled in and you can bull it back out by hand and the trunk will latch.   4. The only remaining item that could cause the problem is the latch itself. It could have been damaged by closing the trunk while something was in the way.   Let me know what you find.   Mr. Vivona
#999 of 1467 99 Diamante Trunk by marak88 Sep 05, 2003 (9:06 am)
Thanks for the input Mr. Vivona, your second guess worked the striker was not be properly adjusted I loosened the screws, aligned and re-tightened the screws, its perfect now.   By the way, do you have any ideas of how to program a key fob remote for the keyless entry without having to go to the dealer.   Thanks for all your help.

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