Last post on Sep 20, 2011 at 10:45 AM
You are in the Kia Optima
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Kia Optima, Sedan
#482 of 609 Re: Spark Plugs on Optima 2001 [ray_h1]
Jun 02, 2006 (2:05 pm)
Thank you. Good to know about the water pump. Living in the desert it is always a good Idea to replace if you are there anyways. I will check on the idler. i don't know if the Sephia has the v6, it was just the only KIA book in the shop. I passed on it though. I have spent the last couple of months (Off and On) under the hood of a 96 buick skylark changing timing components to no avail (Valves bent I believe) Not a lot of room to work with on a front wheel drive. I will check out the KIA TechInfo for the info they have. Your help has been invaluable. Thank You.
#483 of 609 Kia Ft Ends
Jul 18, 2006 (4:17 pm)
I have a 2004 Optima 4 banger, runs fine not great
pings like crazy with reg fuel, not great gas mileage
in town for its size. I also discovered since new the following:
At 60MPH or more the left ft side has a whining noise
sort of like a wheel bearing.
At times when the wheel turns to the extreme left or almost extreme you hear a noise as if its a bad cv joint.
The dealer said it was some bolts in the ft end that were loose. I am over 50 and know what a cv joint sounds like
when it goes bad. My mechanic said sometimes the grease is
not packed and you can get a noise as if it is old but its just dry.
Also when I first purchased it the smell from the vents after you turned off the AC was really bad like a public toilet? DO you think that there is someone trapped inside?
Any of you experienced the cv noise? or the whining at high speeds how about the ping in the motor
My friends have the identical 2004 EX's and dont have the noises. The dealer said to wait I said untilt he warranty runs out?
#484 of 609 Experience with the new car dealers?
Jul 18, 2006 (4:23 pm)
What is your experience with Service Departments
as for the sales they were and continue to be great people.
I am on the east coast most of these dealers really are not hot on the Kia product.
Service leaves a lot to be desired I really like the car and
want to get the new Amanti or Azera but if service cannot fix a ft end problem that will cost a bundle when it goes bad and out of warranty what can you do?
Anyone tried Amsoil syn in the engine? I have ran it since
the 2nd oil change at 7500 miles really good stuff.
#485 of 609 Re: Experience with the new car dealers? [capt4]
Jul 18, 2006 (10:40 pm)
Your two posts suggest your selling dealer has morons running the service department and/or they flatout do not wish to bother themselves with warranty work. (The best warranty in the world is no better than the dealerships' willingness to perform legitimate warranty claims.) I have an '03 Sonata - same car, but different wrinkles in the front and rear end sheet metal. Mine has the 2.7L V6. No pinging, no weird noises from the wheel bearings or CVJs. Highway fuel consumption (70 mph with A/C on) consistently 30 mpg or slightly above over level terrain. The only warranty work I've had done since buying the car in early Dec. '02 was replacement of the overhead domelight switch due to an intermittant contact defect. I'm not trying to make you feel bad - merely pointing out that these cars are reasonably well engineered and will run right if serviced properly. I suppose I needn't inquire whether there are other KIA dealerships within reasonable driving distance for you, right? (If there are, run, don't walk - you're under no obligation to have routine or warranty service performed by your selling dealer.)
As for routine motor oil service, I run Phillips TropArtic 10W-30 "Premium Synthetic Blend" (their description, not mine) I picked up at Dollar Tree. I figure while the car's under its 10 yr./100,000 mile powertrain warranty, the numbers just don't work running a premium full synthetic like Amsoil. Hyundai, to my knowledge, (and presumably KIA, too) don't recognize the extended oil change potential of full synthetic formulations. Even the lowest denominator conventional motor oils are capable of engine longevity in excess of 300,000 miles these days if changed out at 5,000 mile intervals along with a filter change. Five quarts of my TropArtic stash (84 quarts after I cleaned out three Dollar Tree stores...) and one of the two-buck Castrol 3985 (WIX) oversized oil filters I bought twenty-four of on clearance at K-mart when they discontinued them, is the best bang I've found for my seven-buck oil changes.
#486 of 609 ACCELERATION LOSS
Jul 20, 2006 (2:35 pm)
ACCELERATION LOSSI purchased a used 2003 kia optima - 6 cyl. in 2004. My son drives it to and from college. During numerous trips the car has been driving along at 65-70 mile per hour and then out of no where it losses acceleration down to about 45 miles per hour. This usually happens in freeway traffic (very dangerous)and when the car has been driven for 3+ hours and with an elevation change from about 5200' to approx 1200' and vice versa. Recently it started the same thing in local driving. The car must be stopped completely and turned off before it will accelerate beyond 45 again. Over the last year i have taken it to 3 different kia dealerships, the first one put in a new transmission, the second one drove it for 20 minutes, stuck it on the computer and found nothing and told me to come and pick it up and the third one - where i purchased it, also cannot find anything wrong with it, the last time this happened, the service guy said he blew out the fuel sensor and recalibrated it to see if that was the problem (didn't fix it). A man who was a kia field engineer told me that this was a known problem and its one of three different problems, but the service department won't do anything unless the problem will show up on the computer. I am at my wits end and its time for my son to return to college in a car that can drop acceleration at any time and i am very worried that on interstate 10 through Arizona he will be involved in an accident due to this loss of acceleration. Does anyone know anything that may be the problem or have you experienced this problem?
#487 of 609 Re: ACCELERATION LOSS [asumner]
Jul 21, 2006 (8:41 am)
REPLACE the fuel filler cap with a brand new one FROM A KIA OR HYUNDAI DEALER'S PARTS DEPARTMENT* and see if that solves the mysterious power loss problem. A failed or incorrect gas cap can cause just the kind of problems you described and Hyundai had several TSBs out to that effect for model year 2003. The previous owner may've replaced the original with an incorrect one. (Just 'cause the threads are the same doesn't guarentee the caps "hold" at the right pressure and vacuum specs.) Additionally, instruct Jr. NOT to top off the gas tank once the pump clicks off. (That was repeatedly mentioned in those TSBs.) When reinstalling the fuel filler cap, turn it past its apparent stop point until several "clicks" are heard - don't worry, it's just an overrun clutch; you're not stripping the threads.
*Your '03 KIA Optima is bolt-for-bolt a Hyundai Sonata except for the outer front and rear sheetmetal, grillwork, bumper facades, and cabin upholstery. I own an '03 Hyundai Sonata with the 2.7L V6 engine.
#488 of 609 Update on Ft end from last post
Jul 25, 2006 (1:35 pm)
My Kia Optima 04
First thanks Ray_h1 for your advice on the oil changes and
wasting money. I do want all of the 04 owners to be aware of my case. I brought it to another dealer who took the time
and was reliable. They found slight leaks in the trans area
which had them believe it was tran axle trouble. This would account for the rough vibrations I felt on the steering wheel after many wheel balances, for two years. The whining noise left front side at higher speeds, also could have been caused by the trans axle according to the dealer.
They also found the headlamps with a covering almost like a dirt or grime which should have not occurred since the lamps are almost sealed. The bulb inside the lamp. This will be warranty also. One mechanic said the axle was the third he'd
seen on the 04's. SO if any of you are running close to the
60K on your Kia get t checked. However they did give me
a new rental car for the time being. With parts it will take about 6 to 7 days to get it repaired. Thats a bummer since
they stock nearly nothing.
I will keep the forum abreast of progress, anyone have a place to buy good horn replacements. Factory horns have no boldness in traffic. www.autobarn.com ? I just hope my car is not a
Jul 27, 2006 (2:36 pm)
hey I'm new to this forum.
I recently bought a 2001 Optima. It has 120k miles. The car runs great. No acceleration problems or anything. However, when the car is in "park", there is a slight tapping sound coming from inside the engine. All the mechanics have said that it's either the timing belt or a loose pulley for the timing belt. All and all, it will cost me about $550 for the belt and water pump. Should I get it done or drive it untill it dies?
#490 of 609 Re: timing belt [yossiefh]
Jul 27, 2006 (10:14 pm)
Good question. Are these KIA dealership or independent mechanics? The reason I ask is that Hyundai (and presumably KIA) issued a TSB about a "knocking" sound at idle. It turned out that the knocking was a harmless resonance noise when certain aftermaket oil filters were used - Fram comes to mind. Hyundai's TSB "fix" was to change the oil and install a genuine Hyundai oil filter. I'm not sure how many independent mechanics are aware of that TSB campaign. However, if that's not the issue, be aware that Hyundai/KIA recommend timing belt replacement at 60,000 mile intervals. If the belt breaks in service, there is real risk of severe engine damage from moving pistons striking HARD against stationary open valves. If you drive it until it dies, it's very possible you'd be looking at the outlay for a new or refurbished engine block if a connecting rod with lotsa kinetic energy and no where else to go punches through. You relayed no information about the previous service history on the car you bought recently, so I have no idea whether the car's on its second belt or even whether the original belt was ever replaced. (Yeah, there really are some morons who drive a timing belt well past its mean time between failure and manage to get away with it, literally leaving the next owner the opportunity to pick up the pieces...) $550.00 is no small chunk of change, but a rebuild engine would run well over ten times that figure. If I were in your shoes, I'd play it safe. If the fixit cost doesn't include a new autotensioner, have the shop add that in, too.
#491 of 609 Re: Kia Ft Ends [capt4]
Aug 11, 2006 (7:07 am)
This is Capt4 back with the update on the front end
1st and foremost the dealer did everything to make me a happy customer. This was the first time they encountered
this and had to get a " special tool from Kia to put in the new transaxle seals. They had light leakage at 45K
This should be a must check for all Optima 04 customers
Take it to Kia now for warranty.....
We are also working on the wheel bearing noise
and for the ethynol folks
THE STUFF EVAPORATES YOU LOSE MILEAGE
AND THESE KIA's ARE NOT DESIGNED FOR THEM
Kia will look to make you happy I am very satisfied