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Sedans Lexus LS 400/LS 430 Lexus LS 400/LS 430
8333 messages, Last post on Nov 14, 2009 at 5:18 PM
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On-board diagnostic code 41. Supposed to be an indication that some fault that was recorded was intermittent and/or has now been fixed. Dealer service manager said he reset the code but it came right back...??? Tricky sequence to reset myself so I haven't been successful. Does anyone know if the airbag will still trigger with only this code..??
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Replying to: wwest (Nov 02, 2009 12:22 pm) * After repair of the trouble areas, the diagnostic code retained in the ECU memory must be cleared out by removing the EFI fuse (2OA) from J/B No. 2 for 10 seconds or more, with the ignition switch OFF. HINT: Cancellation can also be done by removing the battery negative (-) terminal, but other memory systems (clock, etc.) will also be cancelled out. * If it is necessary to work on engine components requiring removal of the battery terminal, a check must first be made to see if a diagnostic code has been recorded. * After cancellation, road test the vehicle to check that a normal code is now read on the "CHECK" engine warning light. * If the same diagnostic code appears, it indicates that the trouble area has not been repaired thoroughly. NOTE: code 41 appears in a number of different systems of the car, not just airbag system. So the tech has to be in the right system. "41" can also mean deffects in ABS or Height Control.
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Nov 02, 2009 4:32 pm) I had switched out the instrument panel and apparently the air bag system had detected an open indicator bulb. Finally cleared the fault by ignoring the shop manual instruction insofar as timing sequence. Says 1.0 seconds +0.5 seconds in each position when what really worked was less than 0.5 seconds.
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Replying to: wwest (Nov 03, 2009 7:28 pm) 
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First, Lately my '95 LS 400 has been stalling out on me as I pull off of freeways, decelerating. First happened days after I had gotten my oil changed at Oil Changers and they had replaced PCV valve and had me restart the car before they had put valve back. Ooops! Don't know if that's related, but it didn't used to do it. Never does it in around town driving, only when I've been on freeway, so I'm wondering if has to do with something heating up? Always starts back up, immediately. Any ideas? Second, when I was researching buying the car, the only "drawback" I read was it didn't handle that well in wintry conditions. Got first hand experience of that yesterday, when I spun it out on I-5, Siskiyou Summitt in Oregon, in very light snow at 60 mph. Hair ball stuff. Rear end slid out on me, and then I'm doing a 540 in the middle of the freeway. I remember thinking, damn I'm surprised the car didn't roll (such was the force of the spin) which I guess speaks to the "good" handling of the car, which I've also been told about. Any tire suggestions? Studded snow tires? (they're legal here in Oregon). I've got some Cooper all-weather on my rear tires, but they didn't do me much good yesterday, unless I should have them on front, too, to keep things "balanced". thanks for any suggestions on either of these items. -mac
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Replying to: macdawg (Nov 13, 2009 10:40 am)
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Replying to: wwest (Nov 14, 2009 9:43 am)
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Replying to: rennybosch (Nov 14, 2009 1:06 pm) |
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