Last post on Jan 06, 2013 at 9:24 PM
You are in the Mazda Millenia
What is this discussion about?
Mazda Millenia, Sedan
Oct 09, 2003 (3:33 am)
Alldata 2002 MMP
S01898--APR 03--Body - Wind Noise Around Doors
As for reliability of Millenia, it has been outstanding for all years. That does not mean it will never have a problem.
Quote: "#2672 of 2675 check engine light by tomekk Oct 08, 2003 (9:35 pm)
Well, my MM S is in service today, got a loaner - Mazda 6. Fire it up - guess what... check engine light! 4K miles on that Mazda 6. Unbelievable."
Maybe you should do as an independent mechanic once told me concerning Ck Engine Lights in general. He had black electrical tape over the one on his personal car, and suggested that cure for all of them. He was of course joking, but it shows how perturbed mechanics get with those lights constantly going on for no good reason.
I posted to the Maintenance thread "Check Engine Light" and found that about all that gets posted there is questions about those lights on various cars. There were very few posts to answer the questions about them.
Oct 09, 2003 (4:06 am)
I also posted to BAT Auto, which is professional mechanics answering questions, and all you can get there is to have the codes read out and see what is causing the light. Sometimes though, if you can give them the code they have suggestions.
Oct 11, 2003 (9:39 am)
I had the code read at AutoZone. They got PO325-Knock Sensor.
His suggestion was to go to a slightly higher octane gasoline or have the computer reprogramed. I have no ping or knock even under hard acceleration, so I am going to put a couple of feelers out to see what online mechanics suggest.
#2678 of 4030 Firestone Lifetime Alignment
Oct 12, 2003 (4:31 pm)
One of the best tips I picked up from purusing these boards over the past 15 months was the lifetime four wheel alignment deal that Firestone has. Regular price for this lifetime service is $149. Thought it was worth mentioning again for those people new to the boards. Money well spent if you plan on keeping your car for 100,000+ miles like I do with my vehicles.
#2679 of 4030 OBDII Device that Records Error Data
Oct 13, 2003 (8:48 am)
With so many discussions of error codes and having them read at AutoZone etc, this device caught my attention. Check it out at:
You plug it into your diagnostic port and it logs the info for each trip. Then you can download info to your computer for viewing. Kind of interesting...
Oct 13, 2003 (9:53 am)
I agree the idea sounds good, and maybe that reader is OK. But I have a Davis weather station and it is not very accurate. I would make sure that device could be returned for a refund before trying it.
#2681 of 4030 Seat warmer and PO325
Oct 13, 2003 (1:38 pm)
The seat warmer switch in my '02 S is in the back of the seat. You have to remove the back of the seat to find it, and it should be near the bottom on the side. The workshop manual says to check to make sure that the thermoswitch is working properly with a hair dryer and checking with an ohmmeter. You have to disconnect the warmer connection first. THIS IS FOR THE SEAT BACK WARMER.
For the seat cushion warmer you have to disconnect connector and check for continuity between terminals A and B with an ohmmeter.
FWATSON if I remember correctly you had the KL engine. The workshop manual says that it is a knock sensor 1 circuit malfunction. It says that "if the voltage at the PCM terminal 3S is below 1.25V or above 3.75V, the PCM determines that the knock sensor circuit has malfunction."
The possible causes are as follows:
1. Knock sensor malfunction.
2. Connector or terminal malfunction.
3. Open circuit between knock sensor terminal and PCM terminal 3S.
4. Short to ground circuit between knock sensor terminal and PCM terminal 3S.
5. Short to power circuit between knock sensor terminal and PCM terminal 3S.
6. PCM malfunction.
I hope this information helps you guys.
Oct 13, 2003 (3:13 pm)
WOW!! Thanks kcm8419 (can we call you k?). That seat warmer data is of considerable value. I worked in electronics all my adult life and have no qualms about testing and interpreting the results. What does slow me down is pulling the back off the seat and replacing so it looks like it did before. Might be easier to just buy a pair of long johns - red of course. Leather is not the greatest thing to sit on first thing on a cold morning. Not too sure about that instruction to use a hair dryer to check the thermoswitch. When it is hot or warm out then the switch in the back of seat and/or the seat bottom would normally be open. Only when it gets below a factory preset temperature (35F for example) would the thermoswitch close. No heating would take place even then until the driver completed the circuit by pressing one or both dash switches. Blowing hot air would only make sure that the switch did NOT open. JC
Oct 13, 2003 (6:59 pm)
I have no problems with using "K". Let me back track a little. The manual says to use a "hot air blower", so take that for what ever it is worth. It also says that you should have continuity between terminal A and B if it is less then 34 degrees C or 94 degrees F. If it is above no continuity. When I first looked at these instructions I too wondered about pulling off the back of the seat.
The instructions to pull off the seat back cover are as follows:
1. "Pull the edges of the seat back cover to disengage the clips from the seat back frame." There appears to be a total of 4 clips, 2 on each side.
2. "Pull up the seat back cover upward to disengage the clips from the seat back cover." There appears to be 3 clips at the top of the seat back cover.
Every little bit helps. Good luck if you try this.
Oct 14, 2003 (4:37 am)
Thanks for the information. The car will be under warranty for another 14 months, so if the light persists I will take it to the dealer and let them worry about it.
Not only Mazda, but the manufacturers in general really need to get the "Check Engine" light under control. It is too vague a warning to be of much use to a consumer.