Last post on Nov 12, 2013 at 7:37 AM
You are in the Hyundai Elantra
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Hyundai Elantra, Sedan
Mar 16, 2011 (2:12 pm)
Please excuse the post - I am new to Elantras (have posted on honda forums).
I am in need of a third car (4 drivers - two teens - only two current cars. I have an opportunity to purchase an 02 Elantra Gt with just over 100 k. Price was under 3500. No known issues - buying from a friend of friend, who is basically getting rid of an excess car.
The mileage doesn't bother me - likely only put 10-15K per year if that.
Anyway - I have never owned a Hyundai. Is this a worthwhile car at this mileage. I don't mind repairs as I keep my cars until they fall apart. Just need reliable without excess repairs. Anything I should ask the person
#5535 of 5569 Re: 02 elantra [theriver]
Mar 16, 2011 (4:11 pm)
MY 2003 Elantra GLS 5M has 93K miles on it and has been quite reliable. I would ask your friend if the timing belt has been changed. Hyundai recommends changing it at 60K and 120K miles. The engine design is such that a broken belt will cause serious problems. Mine has been changed once and cost around $300.
#5536 of 5569 Re: 02 elantra [theriver]
Mar 16, 2011 (5:53 pm)
That generation of Elantra (the XD series) are very solid little cars. Expect about 30MPG highway, and around 22-25 in town. I owned a '02 GLS and an '05 GT, and both were rock solid. Currently driving a '10 Elantra Touring, also trouble free.
As mentioned above, find out about the timing belt, and if an automatic tranny, how often it has been serviced. The 4spd auto in these does not use a filter, and the fluid should be changed every 30K.
#5537 of 5569 Re: 02 elantra [theriver]
Mar 16, 2011 (6:08 pm)
Have a mechanic you can trust go over the car. They can give you an estimate of what work it might need. One thing about the GTs is they have 4 wheel discs standard, so they should be checked to ensure you don't need a brake job right away--that would cost a few bucks. They should also check the underbody for rust, if the car has been owned where road salt is used or near the ocean.
I have a 2004 GT with nearly 60k miles and it's needed only minor things like light bulbs, and new struts for the hatch (that was a warranty item). Also needed to replace the rear pads and rotors at 45k. Other than that, it's been a great car, still drives and looks (except for a few dings) like new. But the expensive 60k service is looming... you would face that in 20k miles. Cost at a dealer can be around $1000, including timing belt. Plus the car will need new tires before next winter. But I'm going to keep it, for my son to finish college in 3 years--and maybe more. Gotta use up that powertrain warranty!
#5538 of 5569 Re: 02 elantra [theriver]
Mar 18, 2011 (1:12 pm)
I have an 02 Elantra GT with just over 90K miles which I bought new. My wife drove it mainly. Very reliable and have had no problems other than the a front strut locked up when it was put on the lift for recent service. Due to the age that could be expected since they were original struts. I still get about 34 miles to gallon (it has manual trans.) I would suggest you have a mechanic look at it and ask if seller has service records which indicate it has been maintained regularly.
#5539 of 5569 Won't Crank When Hot
Mar 24, 2011 (5:59 am)
2003 Elantra GLS Manual 93K miles. Car always cranks and starts when cold. After it gets up to temp if the car is turned off - then attempt to start it won't crank. If I then cycle the clutch a couple of times or just let it cool down for a couple of minutes it will crank and start. Dash lights dim when it won't crank. Recently replaced the battery - did the same thing with the old battery also before it (the battery)died. Almost seems that something is binding which the starter can't overcome.
#5540 of 5569 Re: Won't Crank When Hot [newhartford]
Mar 24, 2011 (6:40 pm)
Or the starter itself is bad...
#5541 of 5569 7 year report
Mar 26, 2011 (3:53 pm)
My 2004 Elantra GT hatch turns 7 next week. Has almost 60k miles, so I'll have to fork over for that big service. But it's the first big money I've had to spend on the car. Mechanically it's been nearly flawless. Did have to replace the rear pads and rotors at 45k, but that seems common in this car. Other than a few light bulbs, no parts have failed that I had to pay for. I replaced the OEM Kenwood stereo a year ago because it always had terrible AM reception and the flip-down control panel was a pain. Bought a new Kenwood system for $100 (installed) and it slipped right in. Hatch struts were replaced just before the 5-year warranty expired as they were losing their bounce. I've also notice the wipers have slowed down just a bit, so maybe I'm looking at a new wiper motor sometime soon. Also will need to replace the tires before next winter. This set is the 2nd set; I replace the original Michelins at 18k when my wife blew a tire and rim in a blizzard, and four new tires cost as much as two replacement Michelins.
The car still drives and rides like new. No rattles or squeaks. Suspension seems a little firmer than when new, but it could be because of the worn tires. Interior has held up well, and the leather is in great shape except for a buff mark on the driver's left bolster. That appeared a few years ago, I think because the car was used in several auto shows before I bought it. Paint is still glossy (wax it 2-3 times a year), but has several little dings. Alloys have a few digs from curbs. Driver's side headlamp housing fogs up sometimes after a big rain or car wash, but that goes away pretty fast.
Fuel economy is about the same as new. I still get mid-30s on the highway and mid-to-upper 20s in town, but I don't get to drive it much anymore as my son has the car at college. The hatch comes in real handy for carting his stuff to and from school. There's a lot of room in back, especially with the fold-up rear seat bottoms that provides a flat load floor. Few cars have that feature today.
It's been a great car and I hope it holds up as well for the next three years to get my son through college. Then it will be his graduation present. I checked KBB today and found the car is still worth around $6500-7000 in a private party sale--about where it's been for the past 2-3 years. Since the car cost only $13k ($17.4k list), it's only lost half its value in 7 years. Not bad at all.
Apr 06, 2011 (10:42 am)
This will be the last report as I have purchased a new 2011 Elantra GLS auto with PEP. 2003 Elantra GLS 5M with 93K miles. Subframe was replaced free under a recall. The original battery finally died and was replaced. Also had an intermittant no crank condition which was fixed by replacing the clutch interlock switch. This was the only unusual failure other than the emergency brake cable having to be replaced the other year. Rust over the rear wheel wells has gotten worse and is the only disappointing thing I have had with this car. Original exhaust still in place. Air conditioning was still working fine last summer when I used it last - never required any service. Interior fabrics still look as good as the day I drove out of the showroom (no kids at home). The old girl is not as refined as the new one but it always got me where I was going. It will be going to a grandchild for hopefully many more good miles.
#5543 of 5569 2004 elantra gls, almost 74k, exhaust problem??
May 16, 2011 (2:38 am)
2004 Elantra GLS with just under 74k; 2nd owner. Oil changes every 3k. Tires rotated/re-balanced every 6 months & replaced as needed, as well as alignments when needed... I have always used Chevron gas since I bought it at 33k along with fuel injection cleaners (Gumout) every so often. Drive belts, brake pads replaced & rotors turned at 50k (gouge in left-front rotor, told may have been a rock). New battery & transmission fluid replaced at 63k. Spark plugs & wires replaced 3 weeks ago (I used NGK platinums & an NGK wire set). Timing belt/water pump replaced & fuel system cleaned 2 weeks ago. Obviously I was late on TB/WP, although for some reason I managed to skip that page in my owner's manual until I discovered it at 70k.
More work than that has been done overall, but just touching base with what -might- help narrowing down what's going on...
Noticed symptoms before having the timing belt/water pump replaced... but at the time I needed my tires balanced/rotated; was overdue on an oil change (by ~500 miles); the power steering belt had a lot of slack in it and was causing a very loud squeal when cold, when turning as well as a squeal when accelerating from a stop; and the water pump bearing was making a lovely noise. Until that was all done in the last 2 weeks, I wasn't sure what noises/etc. were caused by what. I usually don't neglect my car that poorly, but my mom was in ICU for a few months; driving of the car nearly tripled suddenly and it all seemed to start during that time... but right then, my mind was not focused on my car. After the recent work, everything else is running great, only thing left is this...
When above 50mph, I was hearing what I thought was a rock in my tire that just never went away. Inspected myself and saw nothing, but took it in to have the tires inspected at Les Schwab anyway in case I missed something lodged in the tread or something, but told yet again that all of that checks out. I was also told by the shop that did the TB/WP that they inspected everything, including the wheels/brakes/suspension-related stuff & it is all in good shape. The sound was hard to narrow down with wind noise above 50-60mph, but now I believe it could instead be popping...after I read around trying to find similar questions, and including a few other symptoms...
The idle is quite rough (compared to the barely noticable idle that made me check whether it was even running the first few weeks after I bought it, anyway), and there is hesitation/sluggishness on acceleration, especially the faster I am driving. The hesitation & rough idle was much worse before the TB/WP replacement. I had discussed all symptoms at the time, including the fuel filter recommended replacement at 60k (apparently also skipped that page until now). I was worried the fuel pump might be going bad from a clogged or partly clogged filter, so they recommended a fuel pressure test first to try to narrow down the problem. They told me after that, "the fuel pressure is 'perfect' to OEM specs for my car, which tells them my fuel filter is fine".
Sometimes at idle after highway driving, I will hear a sort of "purr" sound, quite low and throaty, reminds me of a muffler issue kind of noise I've heard on other people's cars. Not always, though. When pulling it into the driveway for the night, the "purr" will stop in Park, but it will then switch to or cause a high-pitched and relatively quiet hiss/whine noise (Park only). Doesn't last very long, if I'm not quick about getting out and lifting the hood it goes away, but I think it might be coming from somewhere around one of the radiator hoses?? The shop's overall inspection did note that the "exhaust system shows usual wear for a car around 75k". But didn't note any actual problems, like a big gaping hole in my muffler, or something. Just "usual wear" (I'm going to talk with them tomorrow to find out what their definition of "usual wear" is, in case my problem might be related to the exhaust somehow).
Prior to TB/WP replacement, when stopped, the idle was "chugging", the car kept vibrating/shaking or feeling like it would die, but it never did. It just felt almost like it was coughing... giving it gas seemed to help, but accelerating was difficult, about half the power as it normally had. Now it is probably 2/3 power of what I consider normal when accelerating. Not as bad/rough, but it's not great.
Also: no CEL, no overheating, no stalling/dying, no hard starts, no stored codes, no smoke from exhaust, no trouble switching gears...
Anyway - could it still be a fuel filter issue, if the fuel pressure is "perfect"? I do plan to replace the filter regardless of what they told me after the fuel pressure test, just because it is overdue according to the owner's manual. But, if there might be more that needs attention, I would like to get it all done in one trip.
I love my car. Even with Hyundai skeptics/anti-Hyundai advocates that I know (my brother is a hardcore Toyota fan), my car still keeps going! Now I want to give her the attention she deserves so she'll keep on going. Sorry this is so long, just wanted to include anything I thought might help... any input is much appreciated. Thank you.