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Sedans Hyundai Elantra Hyundai Elantra 2001-2006
5466 messages, Last post on Dec 07, 2009 at 10:13 AM
You are in the Hyundai Elantra Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: johngotts (Jul 03, 2009 10:16 am) The Elantra, on the other hand, as an "interference" engine, so if the timing belt breaks, the pistons and valves will collide and the engine will be trashed. Don't put off a timing belt change on an Elantra.
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Replying to: doohickie (Jul 03, 2009 12:25 pm) |
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2003 Elantra 5M with 73K miles. This year was uneventful other than the emergency brake froze up and had to be replaced. I've had this on other cars - just don't remember at what age. Other than front brakes everything is original. I keep waiting for the battery to die but so far so good. I'm seeing a little rust at the rear wheel wells at the parting line of the metal panel and plastic bumper wrap around.
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Replying to: newhartford (Jul 25, 2009 6:21 am) |
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Car runs great, but inconvenient issues are popping up - Check Engine Light recently came up - P0456 (EVAP Emission System - Leak Detected - Very Small Leak). Decided not to "fix" the problem at the dealer since the car runs fine and where I live (Indiana) does not require inspection. Dealer could not guarantee that after testing the EVAP system, they will find the exact root cause. They asked for 1 hour labor at least. I had the code read at AutoZone and I reset the DTC myself by disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery for few minutes. However, the light comes back up in few weeks later with the same DTC. Leak must be due to something other than the gas cap. - driver side windows switch "broke". The spring that pushes up the switch somehow got loose and the switch will get set to "down" mode if I touch it forcing the window to go down automatically. It's a nuisance but I have to gently release the switch after I raise the window to prevent it from changing to "down" mode again. Decided not to replace the whole switch module at the dealer due to $$$. - CD player no longer works. It cannot read any CD's. I cleaned out the head using aftermarket cleaner. It will read a CD for a while, but will skip like crazy. Radio at least works. If I miss the CD player, I may decide to put in a after market CD player. - I had to replace fuel filter last week ( http://www.elantraxd.com/DIY/fuel.php ) myself because the dealer wanted to charge 1.5 hour labor + parts. I am NOT a DIY person at all (not even oil change), so this was a challenge. I had to remove the back seat and dig up the fuel pump AND disassemble the pump... I am just glad that the car started again after it was done. - With A/C on during hot weather, sometime I hear a loud noise that sounds as if a rubber is sliding on metal. Possible belt slip some where? - I warp the rotor during emergency stop at a highway... Car vibrates around 40 - 30 mph when I brake now... Another trip to garage is needed and few hundred dollars will be spent to either machine the rotor or replace them. - front and rear shocks have lost some of it's capacity so that when I go over some bump at highway speed, the car sways more than it used to. - Engine sounds a lot rougher and sometime I can hear metallic noise on cold starts these days but gets better (purrs ) when it warms up. FYI - I read somewhere that 2001 Elantra engine was built to last 180K miles, so I guess i have about 50K more miles to go... With my reluctance to spend extra money on minor repairs, I am being forced ( happily I think) to take on more maintenance work myself. --- Minor workaround I use - If the car wont' start (but crank only) on the first try, turn off the key, set it to on again and (wait till the fuel pump stops ) then start again. - If the engine seems to sputter on the first start in the morning, give it a little gas to rev up the rpm to about 2500 to 3000 and it will clear up whatever issue it was experiencing. The same goes for the situation when the car seems to hesitate before it will accelerates. - headlight cover is "fogged up". I found "workaround" from internet where I wet sandpapered the cover using 2000 grit sandpaper and then used regular polishing compound to make it smooth, and finally applied wax to make it almost new again.
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Replying to: hmowner (Jul 28, 2009 8:10 pm) Re: Window switch. Look for a replacement at a junk yard or online. They're relatively easy to replace (pop off door panel and it shouldn't be hard from there). Should be way easier than that fuel filter you did. Re: CD player. Agreed. After-market units will be less expensive and have better capabilities (MP3, etc.). Re: AC noise. Agreed; probably a belt slipping. Re: Brake rotors. A year or two ago my wife's '01 Elantra (GLS, 71K miles) needed to have them turned. The shop with the machine was closed (Saturday afternoon) but I found out new rotors were only about $25 each v. the $12 it would cost to turn them. So she got new rotors and the good brake pads for under $90. Her brother in law did the installation (he's an ASE mechanic). Re: Fogged headlights. I'll have to keep that in mind. Her car is showing signs of it but it isn't bad just yet. |
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Replying to: hmowner (Jul 28, 2009 8:10 pm) My driver side window switch also broke...but have not had it repaired. I just pull it back up when it goes all the way down. Not worth the money to have it repaired right now. My car used to vibrate when I braked also, but it ended up being the problem of the control arm. The control arm will rust with wear, so be sure you have that checked. There is now a recall on all 2001 control arms. Mine snapped in half after existing off a highway...very dangerous. Once the control arm was repaired, my car no longer vibrates when I brake. My suspension is getting worse and noticeable when I go over bumps in the road. However, it doesn't seem as bad if I let the car warm up, and slow down the acceleration before I take off. Unfortunately, the servicemen at my Hyundai Dealer are not good at all, and have found that my own garage mechanic does a better job . May people, including myself, have had to go back twice to them to get a minor job fixed, when my garage mechanic was able to repair it on the first try. I strugged with awful breaks for 2 years, because they could never fix them right, but my mechanic did. |
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Replying to: johngotts (Jul 01, 2009 3:29 am) |
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Replying to: dria24 (Apr 08, 2008 9:57 am) |
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After being told a month ago by my servicing dealer that there "isn't a recall" for my car, I decided to call Hyundai to inquire. Sure enough, there is a recall, just as NHTSA said. This is the control arm recall for rust-belt states, and interestingly, it is the first recall that I have NOT received in the mail. Anyway, it will be looked at on Tuesday and I am not all that comfortable with an inspection, some holes drillled, and rustproofing being applied. I want replacement parts. The other issue is the return of a rub-rub-rub sound on each rotation of the front wheels, whether I am coasting or in gear. A different dealer that will NOT be getting my business anymore has supposedly replaced wheel bearings under warranty, but I am quite suspicious. My more trusted dealer will look at it and decide. I think the first dealer should get a smack-down from Hyundai if they lied about this work. It is interesting to me how some dealers and shops talk to people or sometimes hide their non-work as if we don't know what's going on. It doesn't happen to me often, but when it does I get irritated. How could I not know what's "normal" or not on this car, the only one I drive, on which I am the one who has put 98,000 miles? Give me a break. OK, I'm through.  Mine is a 2001 GLS 5-speed. Just had her 8th birthday, and just about to roll 98K. Great little car.
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