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Oldsmobile Alero

3012 messages,  Last post on May 28, 2012 at 5:28 AM

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What is this discussion about? Oldsmobile Alero, Sedan

Messages Page 300 of 302

#2983 of 3012 Blower Motor & Resistor by wehkah

Aug 06, 2009 (12:35 am)

So the problems started when we began to loose the lower speeds on our blower. From what we knew we needed to replace the resister to the blower motor. So at the most in oppertune time the heat went out all together on the coldest day of the year. So we had the dealership replace the resistor. Went to go pick it up the next day and the fan was making an aweful sound. You would think that the dealership would have checked the fan seeing as it's in the same place and all. Took the car back the next day and they tell me that the fan is bad and needed to be replaced. They wanted $206 for the new GM blower motor (ya not including labor just the part...). So I opted for them to go to the local parts store for another alternative. They ended up getting the cheapest fan, out of 2, to install (still charged me 50% more than had I picked it up myself). Picked up the car later that day and everything seemed to be working correctly.
 
About a couple of weeks later we started smelling something hot when running on high. Few more weeks pass and we loose the high setting all together. Take it back into the dealership. They tell us that the high setting is controlled by it's own fuse and that the fuse was blown. Next they recommend that we replace the blower motor that was installed because it was overpowering the resister causing the fuse to blow. Again they recommended replacing it with the GM motor. Instead we had them swap out the one that was purchased because they thought that it might have been just a bad one. Pay for the labor, not a GM part so they still charged us labor. Picked up the car and it seemed fine.
 
Now about a month and a 1/2 after that repair and I'm having the same issues again. No high, fuse blown and if I replace the fuse it smells like the car is going to start on fire. Dealership still is telling us to put the GM blower in because they feel that's the only way to solve our problem and any after market part is junk, or at least that is the vibe I'm getting. I've already put almost $600 into this repair only for them not to really fix the problem and to top it off not put my dash back together correctly. Can I really trust them with any of their advise? If I have them repair the car again to put the GM part in I'm looking at another possible $400 in repair costs.
 
PLEASE someone give me your advise. I can get both a new blower motor (higher end than what's in there now) and a new resister from the local parts place all for about $100 and a few hours of my time. Should I replace both parts, one part(which one) or have the dealership do the repair?

#2984 of 3012 Re: Blower Motor & Resistor [wehkah] by burdawg

Aug 06, 2009 (6:49 am)

Replying to: wehkah (Aug 06, 2009 12:35 am)
First off, let me correct one misunderstanding. Only the four lower positions of the fan speed have a resistive element in line with the blower. On the highest speed, the blower is connected directly to battery via a relay. There actually isn't "resistors" on the fan speed control board, but resistive stripline that has the same function as discrete resisitors. Of course, it's all fused.
As far as the blower motor causing a burning smell on high speed because it's a cheap defective part, I can't say for sure, but there is a lot of cheap substandard parts out there from all over the world with dubious quality standards.
If it was me, I would put an ammeter in line with the blower and see what current it draws on high when connected directly to a power source that simulates the voltage available under running conditions (around 14V) or to the wiring in the car itself. If it's pulling more current than the parts & wiring are rated for then you know where the problem lies.

#2985 of 3012 Possible Ignition Issue??? by quidditchfan

Sep 08, 2009 (8:16 pm)

I have a 2000 Alero that recently started acting up on me. For the last day or so when you remove the key from the ignition and open the driver's door the door chime goes off like the key is still in the ignition. Because the car thinks the key is still in the ignition, the power door locks do not work. Is this an ignition switch problem or something else?? I do have an after market alarm system and remote car starter in the car, but have had them in there for more than 4 years with no problems. The door locks are not connected to keyless entry and never have been. The ignition has been sticking on occasion for going on 2 years now but this is the first time that the door chime hasn't shut off. If the door is closed the chime does not sound, but I'm still afraid of the battery being drained eventually. Any ideas??

#2986 of 3012 FIx your Security System Starting Malfunction for EVER - and for FREE!!!! by chastongordon

Sep 29, 2009 (7:46 pm)

Replying to: raycorri (Jan 30, 2006 5:21 pm)
THIS WORKS PERFECTLY!!!!!!! I haven't had an incident in over 3 weeks now on my 2001 Alero. This is the same car that the Passlock Security System would prevent me from starting my car up to 3 times a day. The time I am saving just by not having to wait for the system to reset has been SO fantastic.
 
I didn't install anything at all. This was a 10 minute fix for me, and I really don't know much about auto repair. In fact, this was the first time I have taken apart anything in a car at all. The most I have done is replacing spark plugs and changing oil.
 
I got full color pictures from http://www.bulldogsecurity.com. By clicking on the "Vehicle Wiring Diagrams" link and selecting the year of my Alero in the "Oldsmobile" drop-down link list, I was able to print the pictures to ensure I was going to cut the right wire.
">link title
 
Here are some instructions that I followed for the easy and no-cost fix:
 
Pry up the plastic molding from around the Radio/HeaterAC controller and from around the Gear Shifter.
 
Detach the HeaterAC module from the molding by removing the four 7-mm hex bolts from the back side. Take out the 3 7-mm hex bolts to loosen the Radio.
 
Put key in ignition & turn to "On" position, apply brake, and shift into "drive" or lower gear.
 
Turn HeaterAC module to the left, sideways orientation, and pull out the Radio. Disconnect main wiring harness from back center of Radio if there is not enough slack to take the Radio out past the plastic molding. Leave the antenna connected.
 
Look inside and to the left at the back of the Ignition Cylinder assembly. Locate the THIN YELLOW WIRE which is bundled alongside the thin white and the thin black wire. You may have to stick you hand in and fish a bit to grab this "Thin wire Trio".
 
DO NOT mess with the main rear/downward ignition wiring harnesses (1 of which contains a Thick Yellow Wire - leave it alone).


 
Isolate the THIN YELLOW WIRE from the 2 others. As a precaution, RECONNECT the MAIN RADIO WIRE HARNESS, and let the Radio hang to the right side.
 
Put the key in the ignition, and put the car back in PARK. START THE CAR. CUT THE THIN YELLOW WIRE with the car running. Tape both ends of the cut wire. Place black electrical tape over the "Security" light (less annoying).
 
Turn off the car engine. Disconnect the Radio main wire harness to Re-Install the Radio, if necessary. You may need to crawl under the passenger-side dash to push the main wire harness back into the radio while holding the Radio from the front.
 
The rest of the installation is the reverse of removal. YOUR LIFE JUST GOT A LOT BETTER if you want to keep driving this car !!

#2987 of 3012 FIx your Security System Starting Malfunction for EVER - and for FREE!!!! by chastongordon

Sep 29, 2009 (7:47 pm)

THIS WORKS PERFECTLY!!!!!!! I haven't had an incident in over 3 weeks now on my 2001 Alero. This is the same car that the Passlock Security System would prevent me from starting my car up to 3 times a day. The time I am saving just by not having to wait for the system to reset has been SO fantastic.
 
I didn't install anything at all. This was a 10 minute fix for me, and I really don't know much about auto repair. In fact, this was the first time I have taken apart anything in a car at all. The most I have done is replacing spark plugs and changing oil.
 
I got full color pictures from http://www.bulldogsecurity.com. By clicking on the "Vehicle Wiring Diagrams" link and selecting the year of my Alero in the "Oldsmobile" drop-down link list, I was able to print the pictures to ensure I was going to cut the right wire.
">link title
 
Here are some instructions that I followed for the easy and no-cost fix:
 
Pry up the plastic molding from around the Radio/HeaterAC controller and from around the Gear Shifter.
 
Detach the HeaterAC module from the molding by removing the four 7-mm hex bolts from the back side. Take out the 3 7-mm hex bolts to loosen the Radio.
 
Put key in ignition & turn to "On" position, apply brake, and shift into "drive" or lower gear.
 
Turn HeaterAC module to the left, sideways orientation, and pull out the Radio. Disconnect main wiring harness from back center of Radio if there is not enough slack to take the Radio out past the plastic molding. Leave the antenna connected.
 
Look inside and to the left at the back of the Ignition Cylinder assembly. Locate the THIN YELLOW WIRE which is bundled alongside the thin white and the thin black wire. You may have to stick you hand in and fish a bit to grab this "Thin wire Trio".
 
DO NOT mess with the main rear/downward ignition wiring harnesses (1 of which contains a Thick Yellow Wire - leave it alone).


 
Isolate the THIN YELLOW WIRE from the 2 others. As a precaution, RECONNECT the MAIN RADIO WIRE HARNESS, and let the Radio hang to the right side.
 
Put the key in the ignition, and put the car back in PARK. START THE CAR. CUT THE THIN YELLOW WIRE with the car running. Tape both ends of the cut wire. Place black electrical tape over the "Security" light (less annoying).
 
Turn off the car engine. Disconnect the Radio main wire harness to Re-Install the Radio, if necessary. You may need to crawl under the passenger-side dash to push the main wire harness back into the radio while holding the Radio from the front.
 
The rest of the installation is the reverse of removal. YOUR LIFE JUST GOT A LOT BETTER if you want to keep driving this car !!

#2988 of 3012 Re: FIx your Security System Starting Malfunction for EVER - and for FREE!!!! [chastongordon] by burdawg

Sep 30, 2009 (6:59 am)

Replying to: chastongordon (Sep 29, 2009 7:47 pm)
You can do it that way, but the problem is that if you disconnect the battery for any reason, or if goes low enough in charge, you will have to reconnect the wire to get it started again and then disconnect the wire once it's running. That's why it's recommended to install a small toggle switch somewhere and connect the ends of the cut small yellow wire to it in case this happens, so you can connect the wire back together easily if needed.

#2989 of 3012 engine swap by welder69

Oct 04, 2009 (8:02 pm)

i have a 2001 oldsmobile alero with a 3.4 v6 that blew up and was curious if i could replace it with a 2000 3.4 v6 from a pontiac grand am i mean basically the same cars right?

#2990 of 3012 Re: engine swap [welder69] by burdawg

Oct 05, 2009 (7:11 am)

Replying to: welder69 (Oct 04, 2009 8:02 pm)
I can't think of any reason you couldn't.............

#2991 of 3012 Re: FIx your Security System Starting Malfunction for EVER - and for FREE!!!! [chastongordon] by ja33

Oct 15, 2009 (8:11 pm)

Replying to: chastongordon (Sep 29, 2009 7:47 pm)
This is all well and good however let me tell you my simple solution to the passlok security starting problem
 
At 36,000 miles my 2001 Olds Alero started having passlock starting problems. At first it was every other month and then after 2 years it happened with every other turn of the key. Since I am not the least bit mechanically inclined, I tried any and all procedures suggested on the internet except cutting wires, or installing a new switch. Eight months ago I decided to clean the grooves on my ignition key with a squirt of 3 in 1 oil. THE CAR STARTED RIGHT UP. I did it again for the next 3 days to gain little confidence in the procedure. THE ALERO CONTINUES TO START EVERY TIME
   
Now once a month I oil the key, push it in and out of the switch slowly a couple times. When starting the car, do not jam the key in quickly and turn. Take your time. It seems to be a very sensitive switch, and needs a little TLC to prevent dirt build up. Try it. A little 3 in 1 oil squirt might save you a $500 repair bill. I told my GM dealer mechanic about this solution. He said "Yeah, it might work"
  
Other Olds owners have tried this easy solution with favorable results. Try it and see if it works. I would appreciate hearing your results-good or bad. Don't use any special ignition key lubrication from an auto parts store. Just plain old 3 in one oil. Ja .

#2992 of 3012 Need to take apart center console in 2001 Alero by billyp933

Nov 04, 2009 (8:22 am)

I dropped something (dont ask how) through the small hole in the cupholder (to the le ft of the emergency brake) and need to figure out a way to take apart the center console easily without causing any damage. Any advice or diagrams?

Messages Page 300 of 302

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