Last post on Mar 09, 2013 at 12:02 PM
You are in the Nissan Sentra
What is this discussion about?
Nissan Sentra, Sedan
#842 of 2065 ums500: Congrats on your new Sentra SE....
Jul 06, 2001 (1:11 pm)
and I'm sure you'll love it. I'd say you got a pretty good deal. It's good to know that SE's w/PP are not in short supply in your area. When I bought mine in June 2000, they were very rare. I wanted one with ABS/side airbags but gave up on it because I couldn't find one and also I got stuck with the sunroof I didn't need. Now I am happy I got the sunroof though.
Regarding your problem with the crusie control does the indicator, "CRUISE" in the dash light up when you push the cruise on? Also when you set cruise, the indicator "SET" should glow up. Also you cannot set cruise at speeds below 30 mph or so. If the lights doesn't glow up there is a high probability of a blown fuse. Ya, the older models had the cruise ON/OFF switch on the dash board but the new one has it on the steering wheel itself. It's convenient this way. Regarding the dealers you can never talk enough about them. They love to gouge unsuspecting customers. I figure out that since not many buy Nissan vehicles they try to rip off the few who buy. It's a shame that Nissan builds good cars but cannot rein its dealers and their unscrupulous practices. No wonder sales are off.
A piece of advice that I can give you though is that the paint is prone to chipping easily. i went to MI in Dec. and came back with some chips because of the road salt and sand. Keep your car waxed in winter to minimize chipping damage. Also post your pics when you have them. My car revs exactly 3000rpm at 70 mph. Hope this helps.
#843 of 2065 About Fog Lights
Jul 06, 2001 (1:56 pm)
I was wondering if anyone has rewired their foglights into the parking lights so you can just turn on the foglights without the headlights. And help would be appreciated. Thanks.
#846 of 2065 wazappa: I haven't done it........
Jul 06, 2001 (2:42 pm)
but the detailed procedure as to how to do it has been given with illustrations at http://www.b15sentra.net
Click on tech articles on their homepage and you will find it under the Modifications column.
Looks like its not awful hard to do it though. I'm not planning to touch my car until the warranty expires.
#847 of 2065 Dealers FINALLY Found The Problem With My A/C
Jul 07, 2001 (1:13 pm)
Well The Nissan Dealership has finally claimed to have found the reasons why my A/C works intermittently.
They claim to have traced it to a faulty orifice tube in the evaporator assembly, so it is being replaced once the part comes in from the warehouse. They will also replace the entire evaporator, the filter dryer assembly, AND the evaporator temperature switch. This will be their 3rd attempt at this so they know that HAVE to fix it this time, or replace the whole car under arbitration. This is not a profitable option for NISSAN, so they will do what they can to avoid replacing the car.
I am happy that the parts will be replaced under warranty, but if I had to pay for all of these parts, I would be seriously questioning their diagnostic practices. As I said before, this car sat from the December 2000 build date, until I bought it at the end of the month of May 2001. I can understand the orifice tube, but all of that other stuff? That is really strange.
The R-134A was removed from the car again to check for capacity. It was not leaking. But strangely enough, everytime they remove and replace the refrigerant, the unit seems to work better and better. The AC has the capacity to be VERY cold..that much is obvious. It is at 40 degrees during the cool part of the day, and it really cold then.
I will keep everyone apprised of the success of this operation.
#848 of 2065 Where are all the 5spds?
Jul 07, 2001 (10:04 pm)
I have looked at a number of large Nissan dealer lots to find no 5sp Sentra SEs. If you want an automatic, it seems there were hundreds to choose from, but no manuals. A sporty car like the SE and you can only get an automatic, while you can get the un-sporty Civic with 5spds available in abundance. Go figure!
#849 of 2065 NEED YOUR EXPERTISE
Jul 09, 2001 (1:11 pm)
Do I really need repairing on My Sentra SE (2000miles) ?
I noticed that when engine is cool or restarts after 4/5 hours, it starts at high rpm(2000+) for several seconds, say five to seven. Then it goes down to 1100 and when I shifts to any gear or at stop sign /after heating up, it stays at 750rpm.
Is it within spec or you guys suggest me to see dealer on this.
I am sure GSEREP1 can throw some light on this issue.
Thanks in advance.
#850 of 2065 Just Trying To Help..mayankhp
Jul 09, 2001 (3:54 pm)
I will try to help you on this one...(but only because I have had this experience, and NOT because I want to be a "know-it-all" (LOL). Here Goes.
The increased engine speed at start-up when cold is a function of the emission control system, and is perfectly normal. Normally the computer goes through 2 operating modes...open loop, and then closed loop. Open loop is when the engine is cold and all sensors are not warmed up. The computer bypasses all settings found at all of the sensors, and instead runs on a preassigned program in the computer, until such time as the sensors warm up. At that time, the sensors will tell the computer what is really going on and will adjust the engine speed and fuel accordingly.
Always start your engine with no accelerator pressure what-so-ever. Too much throttle will result in the engine not starting at all..just cranking. Starting with your foot to the floor (called Wide Open Throttle or WOT) is used to clear an engine that has been flooded with fuel. This is not usually possible with a fuel injected car, but has been designed into the program just in case it ever happens. If you apply the pedal to the floor and try to start the car, all fuel flow will be stopped until you release the pedal. Give it a try and you will see. It will cause no damage. You will get just spark, but no fuel from the injectors.
On a normal cold start, the engine will run up to 2200 rpm or so and slowly start coming back down. The cold start switch (which is mounted on the intake manifold to measure coolant temperature will activate the cold start relay, which will cause the engine to receive extra fuel and air, hence the high engine speed. Once the coolant warms up past 120 degrees, it sends a signal to the computer to start cutting back on the fuel, and is the beginning of "closed loop". The catalytic converters will start to get hot by the exhaust and the electrically heated exhaust gas oxygen sensors...(O2 sensors). Once these sensors get hot, they send a signal to the computer that they are warm and need less fuel, so the computer cuts back on the fuel and the engine slows down. When the car is already hot or warm, it comes down to normal idle much sooner. When the idle is down to normal, the engine is said to be in "closed loop", and all sensors are activated. If any sensor is out of normal specification it will send a signal to the computer and then in turn illuminate the "check engine" or "service engine soon light". That will mean electronic diagnosis, because you do not know WHICH sensor caused the light to illuminate. By the way, our Sentras have 2 O2 sensors. One is on the exhaust manifold up front (easily visible once you raise the hood and and look straight down at the exhaust heat shield. The sensor has 3 little wires on it. Then there is another sensor like it on the exhaust pipe AFTER the catalytic converter. These sensors are VERY expensive (over 200 dollars EACH). They both work together to measure temperature AND exhaust flow. Changing exhaust systems sometimes causes the check engine light to come on, because different pipes may cause different flow characteristics other than those originally designed into the exhaust system. Be careful with aftermarket exhaust systems. These )2 sensors are under a special emissions warranty, but once that has expired, you are out of luck and will have to buy them yourself. I know because my sister has a 1995 Mazda Protege with 80,000 miles, and she needed BOTH sensors at the same time.
This is getting WAY too complicated. I would rather talk about all that snow you have around your place in Alabama. That is also a NICE neighbothood you live in too. I would like it much better without the snow. You must have many stories of crazy drivers in the snow. Being a California driver, I surely would not want to drive in all of the slush that you encounter during the winter. I have no experience in that kind of stuff and would not want my car subjected to being hit by idiot drivers going too fast for conditions. Have you undercoated the car yet, or not? If I lived where you did, I probably would have done so by now I think. The only plans I have for my White Sentra is to get the windows tinted, and put in a K&N air filter when they become available out here. Once I am done, I will post a few pictures, but I like mine pretty much stock.
I did not get the sunroof either. Other than that, our cars are identical. I want to chrome the wheels later. My 17 year old nephew wants me to lower it, and install a big muffler that I joking refer to as a "TRASH CAN". No such plans for my car. By the way, did you know that we have a 2 stage muffler on the SE's? There is a special baffle in there that causes the majority of the exhaust to come out of only one of the small pipes back there at slow speed. This gives it better backpressure during slow speeds. Then the other baffle opens up at around 4500 rpm, and flows through both pipes when you want and need extra performance. Sure sounds different when you are getting on it. I drove back from San Francisco yesterday (9/6/2001) and got 27 to 29 mpg at 80 plus miles per hour going south on Interstate 5. One day I will slow down and see what I can really get for maximum mileage. That will be as soon as I switch to synthetic oil and get the new K&N air filter and switch to synthetic transmission in the manual transaxle.
All of my A/C parts should be in tomorrow (Tuesday and then I will get it repaired. Strangely enough, it has been working nearly normal since the system was vacuumed out and recharged with R-134 for the second time. The lines are sweating and everything Temperature is below 40 and ity is COLD...BRRR. I guess that I better get it fixed anyway, because as sure as I don't do it, the problem will return later on.
Thanks, and take care...
#851 of 2065 Thanks to GSEREP1
Jul 10, 2001 (6:34 am)
Thank you very very much for educating me in detail as I am financially literate, and I needed someone who can guide me right the way you did technically. Your note ( I would like to take it as a small learing article on emission control how it works on modern car) is a full of knowledge which I would like to recommend everyone to read and understand every aspects of it on this forum.
By the way I am also living in sourthern california - L A and not familiar with snow driving.
Since you are here, let me ask you little more.
I also noticed that my both cars Altima GLEand Sentra SE( Both are 2001) are slowly sliding towards right side after driving few seconds without holding sterring wheel. I do not feel any impression that my alingement is off while driving both the cars, as do not have to force to keep it straight up.
Is this due to road conditions on CA ? or something goes with tyre pressure? or is there something technical which you would like to enlight me.
Thanks once again,