Last post on Mar 09, 2013 at 12:02 PM
You are in the Nissan Sentra
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Nissan Sentra, Sedan
#720 of 2065 Break-in period/Synthetic Oil
May 25, 2001 (4:04 am)
According to the 2000 Nissan Sentra Owner's Manual, Page 5-16:
"During the first 1000 miles...Do not drive over 55 MPH and do not run the engine over 4000 rpm."
This would explain why you've seen older posts referring to the importance of keeping the revs under 4000 RPM for the first 1000 miles. Apparently Nissan rethought this for the 2001 Owner's Manual.
Depending on whom you ask, you'll be told you can run synthetic oil from mileage 0, to mileage 5000, or, in your case, at mileage 12000. Mobil 1 claims you don't have to wait to break-in the engine, but another synthetic oil manufacturer (forget which one) claims you should wait. I have one personal data point from which to draw a conclusion. A friend of mine put a brand new engine in his Chevy Impala and from the beginning ran synthetic oil After several thousand miles he tore the engine apart (he does these kinds of things) and found that the engine wasn't sealing and wearing like it should. He came to the conclusion that it was because he was running synthetic, which didn't allow the engine to break-in properly. Who knows? Anyway, with both of my vehicles, I changed to synthetic between 4000 and 5000 miles.
#721 of 2065 Insurance and ABS
May 25, 2001 (4:01 pm)
Most insurance premiums are only lowered slightly, it at all, by adding ABS. This is probably because of two reasons. First, they (insurance cos.) will make less money if they reduce the premiums. Second, Many studies have shown no overall reduction in accidents for cars with ABS compared to non-ABS. The latter is probably due to driver overconfidence in ABS and driver misuse of ABS thus nullifying its advantages. Car alarms also do very little to lower premiums.
May 26, 2001 (5:26 am)
I like pretty much everything about my 2001 Sentra SE except the spoiler. The salesmen steered me to the performance package (which of course comes with the spoiler), telling me that I couldn't get the SE these days without the performance package.
I'm 37, & to me, spoilers are kids stuff. What are my options?
May 26, 2001 (9:11 am)
Yeah, I don't particularly like the spoiler, either. It is too high. I was using a Maxima loaner for a couple of days; the spoiler on that car is much less obtrusive.
#725 of 2065 Get the spoiler removed
May 26, 2001 (10:03 am)
A good dealership will work with you on this and will credit you on the final price.
#726 of 2065 Dealership will work with me?
May 27, 2001 (8:27 am)
Problem is, I've signed already. But I'll still mention it to the dealer next time I stop by...
... Actually I'm not sure I've gotten involved with such a good dealer anyway (Yonkers Nissan in New York).
For example, I didn't do my homework on what the Nissan Vehicle Security System includes. I only read what's posted on the Nissan website, which mentions the Immobilizer, but *doesn't* mention that the Security System includes an alarm which sounds if the vehicle is disturbed.
I'm sure the salesmen knew that fact, but still they sold me an additional alarm system for $400. (After-market brand.)
I think Nissans are good cars, but beware the dealers... I had similar negative experiences when I bought my last Nissan (different dealer)...
Frankly, I'd advise someone who's young or inexperienced to try Saturns instead...
#727 of 2065 insurance discounts: ABS, side airbags, anti-theft
May 27, 2001 (12:49 pm)
I work for an insurance company. Most companies, including my employer, do NOT give discounts for ABS or side airbags.
The loss history on cars equipped with ABS does not differ from vehicles without it. Since most vehicles do not include side airbags as a standard feature, there has not been enough actuarial data collected yet.
Anti-theft discounts aren't significant enough to warrant adding an alarm or vin etching. I have all of the aformentioned equipment on my SE, but only for piece of mind.
#728 of 2065 Good Mileage WIth New Sentra S.E.
May 29, 2001 (8:10 am)
I am here to report my first gas mileage readings on my new Sentra SE w/ Performance Package, and 5 speed. I drove from the dealership and went directly to a service station and checked the tire pressure. The book calls for 33 psi front, and 30 psi rear. I added enough air to bring the pressure to 35 front and 35 rear.
My very first tank I drove 248 miles and put in 9.2 gallons of regular (to the neck), which yielded a hair under 27 miles per gallon...or 26.9 or so. I was pleasantly suprised. This was 90% freeway driving in California. My second tank gave me 295.7 miles and it took 10.2 gallons. My best friend spilled at least 2 tenths on the ground (which is ridiculous to say the least.)Either way, it was close to 29 miles per gallon. Needless to say, I am very pleased.
I have a few observations though:
1. The fuel gauge is not accurate. The needle stays buried at the top for the first 120 miles or so, and then hangs around the 3/4 mark for 60 or so miles. At 295.7 miles, the needle had not gotten to the 1/4 mark, yet it took 10 gallons. The car is supposed to have a 13.2 gallon fuel tank, but I don't know for sure. I may have to do my regular test on a new car. (I usually drive it until it runs out...with a 5 gallon gas can in the trunk.) When the tank is completely dry,. I add the 5 gallons, and immediately go to the station and fill it all the way up. That sets my baseline.) More on this if I decide to do that. It is not a good idea to run the car out of gas on purpose, so I may not do it this time.
2. I wanted an automatic transmissioned car, but on the day I bought mine, I drove 3 or them, and they all slipped badly. I remembered what I read in this website, and I changed my mind and got the 5 speed. THANKS to ALL OF YOU on that on. I do not want to have that kind of problem with a new car, EVEN if they put a new one in.
3. My car was built in December 2000, so it sat around somewhere for a long time. I do not trust the oil that has been sitting in the crankcase for so long. The dealer recommends 3750 miles as the first oil change. I am thinking about changing sooner.
4. Fit and finish is very good, although I find that the driver's door closes harder than the rest. The other doors close with a resounding "clunk", but the driver's door has to be closed firmly, or it will not fully close. I may go to get this looked at, but I do not want them to realign the door if it messes up the original settings. Right now, it is not leaking air, nor are there ANY rattles. I hope that this will continue to be the case.
5. I had to drive about 35 miles from my home, but I got this car for $15,101 + tax and license for a total of $16,464.00 out the door. I was satisfied, but felt they could have done better. That was much better than in San Diego, where the best I could do was 15,600 + tax and license for manual trans and 16,200 for automatic trans. NO sunroof in either case. They did try to slip in a $299.00 "Window Etching" package in on me, but I refused to pay that. They claimed that ALL of their cars get that as soon as they come off the truck, but I said "sorry". They did take off the price with no hassle. I did not see the etching on the car at all, and I was glad that I did not have it.
All in all, this is the most POWERFUL 4 cylinder non-turbo car that I have ever owned. It runs as good as some 6 cylinder cars I have driven. Just like many other comments that I have read, I am simply amazed at the power and versatility. It is heads and shoulders above the Honda in every respect but fuel mileage. I am sure once I get synthetic oil in the engine, synthetic gear oil in the transmission, and a K&N air filter, I will get better mileage. I can't wait to get it broken in, and to make the changes.
#729 of 2065 Fuel gauge; remotes and fuses
May 29, 2001 (10:07 am)
You are right about the fuel gauge not being too accurate. Mine will stay above the full mark for about 100 miles. Once it reaches the 1/4 full mark, however, the needle drops fast and the light comes on not long after.
On another matter, I have had trouble with the remotes blowing a fuse, leaving me without auto door locks, key alarm, all interior lights, trunk light, map lights, etc. Anyone else had the problem? I take it to the dealer, they replace the fuse, but then the same thing happens a few days later. They of course are not able to duplicate the problem in the time they have the car.