Last post on Apr 21, 2013 at 5:02 AM
You are in the Toyota Avalon
What is this discussion about?
Toyota Avalon, Interior, Sedan
#3511 of 3629 Re: Broke Driver side front int. door handle FIXED! [hawiianavowner]
May 01, 2009 (3:10 am)
just like to add:
Removing the trim panel to get access to the handle is NOT hard. It is removing 6 screws and two panel clips. Two screws are covered by plastic caps. The largest screw of the 6 is the one revealed by removing the armrest insert. The 7th screw is the one for the door handle mechanism. This screw can be tightened if needed by prying the little panel in the bezel next to the handle. You do NOT need to remove the entire trim panel just to tighten it.
Besides not fitting, another difference btw a Camry handle and the Avalon's is the chrome. But it is still plastic underneath. Would Toyota make a special handle just for the Avalon? For the model year 2000, one post suggested it could be the same as a Camry Special or Limited Edition handle, if not a Lexus one.
#3512 of 3629 throttle body cleaning?
Jun 25, 2009 (5:55 pm)
My 98 avalon runs/starts fine..dealer recommended throttle body cleaning at $150...said mileage would improve noticeably...i'm getting about 23-24 combined now..any opinions?
#3513 of 3629 2000 XLS ride height
Jul 05, 2009 (8:01 am)
My 2000 Avy was among the firsts produced of the new generation and had short front springs. I noticed recently that front end seems lower that before. I want to check ride height, but couldn't find any specification nor proper way to measure standard curb ride height for the 2000 Avalon. As anyone information regarding those measurements. I have read somewhere that ride height may be measure from center of the wheel to lower lip of fender. Mine reads 14 3/8 inches.
#3514 of 3629 Re: throttle body cleaning? [petras2]
Jul 07, 2009 (5:32 pm)
Throttle body cleaning is good preventive maintenance if you are experiencing rough idle or stumbling acceleration. It may improve mileage slightly. I have got 2 Avy, a 96 and a 2000, both average between 20 and 25 with clean throttle body. Also, it's a 45 minutes job to clean throttle. So, its your pick, 150$ for a small improvement in fuel consumption may be worthy for you, not for me.
#3515 of 3629 2000 XLS - Unable to hold RPM at start
Jul 25, 2009 (7:28 pm)
I have a 2000 XLS and the odo shows almost 99L miles now. Have been due for an Oil change for almost 5 months now.
Recently I am experiencing starting troubles with my car. The car starts when I crank but the RPM drops down quickly till the point the engine goes dead and I have to crank again.
This doesn't happen all the time but the frequency of this has greatly increased recently when the car fails to hold RPM after cranking for 7 to 8 times, I have to press the gas pedal to maintain the rpm and shift into "D" after which the car drives perfectly OK.
Has anybody ever faced this before ? Any suggestions on what could be wrong and how to fix it ?
#3516 of 3629 Re: 2000 XLS - Unable to hold RPM at start [njavalonguy]
Jul 26, 2009 (12:09 pm)
This sounds very much like the Idle Air Control Valve. Your problem only occurs when you first start the car. Take a look at my post #3487.
#3517 of 3629 Re: 2000 XLS - Unable to hold RPM at start [njavalonguy]
Jul 26, 2009 (6:11 pm)
Would like to slightly rephrase the issue which I stated above :
5-10% of the time I restart the engine when it's warm, the car will idle at 100-200rpm. If I hit the gas pedal, it revs fine but drops back down to the low idle as soon as I let off. It will stall when I put it in drive unless I rev the engine, throw it in gear, and immediately start moving. If I have to reverse out of a parking spot, it becomes quite an ordeal. If I can manage to get onto an actual road and accelerate hard, the idle returns to normal at the next red light and no more problems. It's never happened on a cold start.
Could it still need an IAC and throttle body cleaning ?
#3518 of 3629 Re: 2000 XLS - Unable to hold RPM at start [njavalonguy]
Jul 27, 2009 (4:40 am)
A faulty IAC will usually cause idle problems at a cold start, and not normally thereafter.
The throttle cable and the idle cable are easily adjustable. Before looking at more esoteric issues such as a vacuum leak, make sure that all the slack is taken up. Those cables will have stretched considerably over 100K miles. They can be easily accessed under the hood, and the adjustment is similar to a brake cable adjustment on a bicycle - you loosen a nut with a wrench and twist the adjuster screw with a pair of pliers, finally retightening the nut.
#3519 of 3629 I think it's time for a replacement
Nov 28, 2009 (12:50 pm)
My 2000 Avalon XLS has only 72,000 miles but I think it might be time to replace it with a 2010 Buick Lacrosse CXL.
I am a bit hesitant because in the last few months I have spent so much money on maintenance including:
---Brakes and rotors on all four wheels
---Set of brand new tires
---Replaced stabilizer bar bushings
---Re-sealed leaking oil pan and did a
I would consider a new Avalon but the current version is beginning to look dated and their is no word on a 2011 version. The new Buick Lacrosse looks great inside and out but it looks a little snug and I'm not sure if the handling is as crisp as my Avy.
Any advice on whether I should wait for the new generation Avalon or bite the bullet and go for the buick or stay put with current Avalon that is in great mechanical condition?
#3520 of 3629 Re: I think it's time for a replacement [bwia]
Nov 28, 2009 (2:08 pm)
Well, every car goes through periods where things like this must be done. You have already done some expensive items. 72k on this car is nothing. We have an 03 that just turned 81k and have done the same things including KYB GR2 struts. I had intended to upgrade before 70k for maximum value, but time and miles slip by. I was waiting for the 07 ES 350's to come off lease. I don't like to take the hit on a new vehicle. But, it seems that the used car market is slim. No trade ins maybe?
So, 2 ways to look at it. It may be a good time to sell or trade your used car for top dollar. On the other hand, I just commented to my wife that I really like the AV with the suspension upgrades we have done. It still runs and drives like new and is certainly more fun to drive than a CTS or STS whose steering feels wooden to me. Not sure about the new Lacrosse, but it is a handsome looking car. Do we trade while ours still has good value or shoot for 150-200k where there is little value left? I would guess that's about 8 grand less than current value on ours. But how quickly a new one loses that much. Then to, there are the license, insurance, depreciation issues etc. as opposed to possible repairs on the older vehicle. But, the savings from these 3 items alone would more than pay for possible upcoming repairs.
One method would be to make payments into an auto savings account that would go towards these costs if a new car were purchased. You wouldn't have a car payment either. When you are ready to trade, whatever wasn't spent could be applied to the down payment on a new vehicle, easing the pain considerably. Depends where we are in life also. If young with lots of other debt, I would use the latter method. You may be surprised at how quickly you can pay cash for the next one.
On the other hand, if you are retired and can afford it, maybe you deserve that new toy.