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Sedans Toyota Avalon Toyota Avalon 2004 and earlier
3522 messages, Last post on Dec 01, 2009 at 7:29 AM
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Replying to: 55396 (Oct 21, 2008 10:07 am) With the previously installed KYB GR2 HD struts ($209/set new on ebay plus installation and alignment) and Energy Poly sway bar bushings, this has become quite a sporty feeling car to drive. I agree with ABFisch, very BMW like. This is now a very enjoyable car to drive, and I don't even have the rear bushings installed yet. I couldn't believe the difference the front bushings alone made. I highly recommend them. At about 30 bucks, you can't beat the improvement. If your struts are weak, this should firm things up a bit too. I did ours before the struts, ant it was very noticeable. My wife was thrilled with the difference. Now that says alot. A rear wheel bearing started to go on the trip home from Arizona 2 years ago, but didn't seem to get any louder, so made another trip last year fully loaded. Still no change, but I thought I had better not push my luck. Good thing probably, as it takes considerable effort to rotate the old one. More of a lube problem than anything. I can usually lube a bearing and free it up, but this one isn't responding well, so I assume it's the outer bearing that I can't get to. I'll let it sit a day or 2 to see if oil gets down to it. Anyway, I bought a new bearing/hub assembly online for $82, and Todd installed it. I probably could have - only 4 bolts, but didn't want to this time. At 68k, the pads were quite thin, so we replaced them with ceramic. and turned the rear rotors as Todd said they rarely warp. In retrospect, I would have gone new, as the cost was only slightly more. Should be fine though, as only needed to clean them up because they weren't warped. Fronts were warped and pulsating, so we replaced them with grooved aftermarket rotors. Bearing/hub labor was only $33.80. I won't dirty my hands for that. Turning the rear rotors and all other labor came to $78. $20 for 'shop supplies' seemed excessive, but no complaints at this price. So, my out the door total including tax was $283.18, plus the hub/bearing that I supplied. Helluva deal. My theory is that when coming to a stop and holding the brakes on causes the heat to remain under the pads while the rest of the rotor cools, possibly causing the warpage. So, we try to brake early and more lightly, then stop about 10-12 feet back at an intersection. The rotors don't get so hot with easy braking, but then we also let the car creep ahead so that the rotors cool more evenly. It's my wife's car, and while she says she practices this, I notice that she sometimes, um, forgets.
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Replying to: 55396 (Oct 22, 2008 9:36 am) My front ceramic pads on aftermarket disks (neither drilled nor slotted) were a little abrupt for the first 1000 miles, but have smoothed off since then, sufficiently in fact to demonstrate the limited capabilities of the suspension (which you and Abfisch have addressed). I have not yet done the rear brakes, but a very minor pulsation suggests to me that, unlike your Avalon, my rear disks are slightly warped. The replacement cost for a rear bearing, including labor, was ridiculous. I also wasn't pleased when a new a/c compressor cost $1000. One of the difficulties in doing "serious" maintenance on an older car is the cost-benefit analysis. Is it worth spending a large chunk of money (assuming much of the work is done at the dealership) rather than simply trading for a new vehicle? Each of us will have our own analysis, but I suspect the final decision is emotional rather than analytical. My wife expects new car performance regardless of the vehicle's age, and sometimes the easiest answer to that is a new car. Nevertheless, my wife uses the Avalon as a standard, and few vehicles we have looked at come close. Compared to my faultless 70K Saab 9-3, however, the Avalon is becoming a bit of a liability. |
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With new vibration/buzzing at low RPM after this dry start, what is the chance it will keep running? 90,000mi. I just moved to the Temecula valley. I took my my 2000 avalon in for an oil change. The car was in perfect condition. Every repair on time, every oil change and fluid change on time.I wanted to see if the service was as good as my old dealer in Alhambra,Ca. After two hours I was told there was a problem. I go to look and my car... ruined. What happened was that the tech? forgot to install the oil filter. When he started the engine, it blew oil everywhere. The drivers door window was up so he had to open the door to turn the key off. He forgot to close the door, but had already moved the lifting arms away from the frame. Then he lifted the car by the drivers door. They repaired the body ($3,000.00) gave me a loaner. Now my car vibrates at low RPM. I was told they would repair it later if I have a problem. The service manager did help to correct the mess. He said that after looking at the cam and valves, since the engine was like new he would make it right if a bearing goes out within 10k. Nothing on paper. and it is an older car. I asked for an alignment and he did it. It was way out on the left side. The car does not run the same! But it does run. My trans was/starting leaking when I brought the car home from the body shop. I went under to take a look and somehow the trans oil pan had the one bolt over the cat. converter loose. Made a stink,smoke,mess everywhere. there is a strong feeling it came loose with a wrench. A 1/2 turn and the leak stopped. CURIOUS! The customer relations Rep. did a very good job making a bad situation better. I am grateful for that. My first visit there was my worst experence at any dealer. I don't know where to go now.
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Replying to: bullnobull (Jan 07, 2009 9:33 am) Do not drive it anywhere but back to the dealer! Consult a lawyer,now,while it is all still recent. I would demand a replacement car equal to yours, prior to damage inflicted by dealer. Plus aggravation,etc. Especially, since "nothing in writing". Best of luck. |
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Can anyone tell me where the headlight adjustment screws are located on a 2002? Thx, ken |
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| Needing some advice from other Avalon Owners. Looking to buy a 1999 in impecable condition with 77K miles on it. Now my mechanic says to steer clear of the Avalons specifically, and go for another toyota, siting the fact that they are American made and therefore faulty. (My question would be--how much different could they be if still from the same company standards? Maybe this logic doesn't work in this case). I used to own a Solara and fell in love with this car for a lot of the great details it has; leather seats; wood paneling, etc. I may only be 30 but I am an old soul, and old fashioned taste. It's not surprising that I should go for a more "mature look". Any more news on this car? | |
Meant to put the price. The dealer is selling me the `99 Avalon for $7,495 at a very high interest rate due to my sub-prime credit has (77K miles on it). But this is down from the $10,995 it was listed for. I have to put $3,000 down but they dropped the price this much because the bank had to buy it at the best price from the dealer. So it's actually a great deal. Yet it is only a great deal if it is dependable and I don't have to put too much $$ into it. Grateful for your response regarding the dependability of the '99 Avalon. (I'm biased because now I really want the car!)
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Replying to: minido (Mar 16, 2009 11:35 am) You cannot predict what the longterm reliability will be. We purchased our 2003 after we had leased it for 4 years, assuming we had a reliable car. We greatly enjoy it still, but repair costs have been well above average, close to $2500 over two years. If the previous owners have not been using synthetic oil and frequent changes, your engine is a risk for sludge. Other problems associated with that year are front disks that warp and suspension components that go soft. I can't recommend your proposed purchase. Unless you have a complete history, I think the price is too high and the risks too extreme.
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Replying to: mcclearyfl (Mar 16, 2009 1:34 pm) There are always cars like this coming up for sale. You just have to keep your eyes open. You may want to look private for a retirees car that has not been parked on the street, parking lots at work, and has had regular dealer service. I just picked up a dealer paper and see 2003 Mitsubishi Galants for $3500 asking. Here, you could make sub prime resale work for you. We owned ours for 10 years and sold it for $3500. Our daughter took it to Chicago, a 350 mole trip, for her internship and it sat outside. She came home every few weeks. We never had a concern about it's reliability. As always, there are options in life. Pick the best one for you. If you made those payments to your savings account instead of buying the Avalon, how long would it take you to accumulate $3500 so you could pay cash? That's a great feeling. And, instead of paying a big sub prime interest payment, which most of your early payments would go towards, you actually earn interest on your money while you wait. Calculate it both ways and see if you are shocked at the difference. OK, that's my speil for the day. BTW, have you read: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.ef2201f?displayRecent OR, search on 55396 if you want to want to see more abnormal thoughts.  http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef2201f!keywords=allin%3Amsgtext%2- 0limit%3A.ef2201f%2055396&count=20 |
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Replying to: minido (Mar 16, 2009 11:35 am) But, you are buying a 10 year old car. You know nothing about it. Others have suggested you attempt to find out about maintenance. Get the dealer to give you a Carfax or similar report to find any insurance claim damage, salvage, etc. Get a new emissions certificate. Also be prepared for electrical problems due to age. Properly maintained these cars can go 200k miles without major component work. They are well built and if the mileage is correct it should last 10 more years if you take care of it. The price sounds a little high, as pointed out in a prior post. Good luck ! |
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