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Sedans Toyota Avalon Toyota Avalon 2004 and earlier
3522 messages, Last post on Dec 01, 2009 at 7:29 AM
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Replying to: njavalonguy (Mar 29, 2008 7:20 am) I also experienced the same way that the check engine was going on & off for few weeks but after a month time it was on for long time. I did not fix it the check engine for almost 6 months but when inspection time was near i had to fix it. |
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Replying to: njavalonguy (Mar 29, 2008 7:20 am) If this were my car and it was doing OK otherwise, a good car, and I intended to keep it for some time, (and driving for an hour at freeway speeds with injector cleaner has not solved the problem) here is list of things you might consider: 1. Get the 90k service. Clean the injectors off the car. Replace the plugs. Then drive the car. If the CEL is still on and will not go off on the highway, replace the O2 sensors. 2. If none of this gets the light to stay off and no other codes appear, replace the Cat converter. Some people replace the sensors at 100k anyway. They heat to the same temp as the converter and won't last forever. But they are much cheaper to replace if they go bad and you don't really need a converter. Good luck! 
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I am looking to replace my 96 Avalon XLS that has 196,000 miles. I am looking for a 2000 thru 2004 XLS. I am limiting my years because of the pricing of these vehicles. I am very satified with the performance and reliability I have experienced in the last 4 years with this 96, so I am going to be a repeat buyer of a vehicle for the first time in my life. (I have owned lots of vehicles) I have a question about using a 2003 or 2004 XLS steering wheel on a 2000-2002 XLS. Will the 2003 or 2004 XLS steering wheel match up to the 2000 thru 2002 XLS wheels? The 2002 thru 2002 XLS wheels are fully leather-wrapped and have a tendency to deteriorate where my hand or wrist rests. The 2003 and 2004 wheels are partial simulated wood. Does anyone know if the colors are about the same and if the mounting apparatus is the same? I am still looking for that 2nd gen Avalon and can't wait to upgrade.
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Replying to: deanoavalon (Apr 03, 2008 2:51 pm) |
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Replying to: deanoavalon (Apr 03, 2008 2:51 pm) Our Avalon has not been trouble free. Repairs have totaled $1400. Nevertheless, my wife - who views any used car with complete suspicion - is enchanted with the comfort, the relatively strong performance and, amazingly, the looks. Every time we get into a 2008 car or SUV we find ourselves comparing them unfavorably with the 2003 Avalon. We have owned a wide variety of cars including three Saabs, a Buick Regal GSE (probably our favorite after the Avalon), a VW Jetta, an Olds Aurora, a Maserati and, for fun, a restored Nash Metropolitan. Never in a lifetime would I have thought that an Avalon would capture our imagination and loyalty. Good luck with your search! |
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| I am unable to open my back door on the 1995 toyota avalon. How do I fix this issue? | |
my wife used my car, and now the car seat wont back, the switch allows the seat to go foward, up, down, tilt up, tilt down but it doesnt go back.
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Replying to: leoanrd (Aug 14, 2008 7:10 am) Roland |
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At 70K miles my wife’s 2003 Avalon had intermittent idle problems when starting in the morning. Since my spouse believes that any vehicle should behave as if it just came off the showroom floor, my response that “an occasional idle problem was not worth getting upset about” did not go over well. Knowing I would have to remove the throttle body, I decided to replace all the spark plugs since, I thought, replacement of the rear bank of plugs would be much easier with the throttle body removed. Even then, spark plug replacement was not an easy job, and my hat goes off to those brave souls who do it with the throttle body in place! However, the real story in this post is the Idle Air Control Valve. Removing the throttle body has been described in other posts. My only comment is that the fourth bolt securing the throttle body is on a support by the bulkhead, and you can easily miss this and wonder why the throttle body won’t come off. Once you have the throttle body on the work bench, the rest is relatively easy. There are four Phillips head screws securing the IAC valve to the underside of the throttle body. I know of at least one post where the writer couldn’t undo the screws, and simply cleaned the throttle body with an appropriate cleaner, assuming that the IAC would get cleaned as well. This is a big mistake. My screws came out easily, but if you have trouble just use a vise grip on the exposed heads. My IAC had a substantial coating of hard carbon material on the shaft and plate; throttle body cleaner does not remove this. The best solvent is carbon disulfide, but this is toxic, has a foul odor, and is not readily available to the general public. I used Goo Gone together with an old toothbrush and cloths. I removed the black electrical cover (2 screws) which exposed the shaft, and cleaned this again with Goo Gone. Finally I washed everything in throttle body cleaner. The shaft and plate now rotated with no resistance. Reassembly of the throttle body back into the car is primarily commonsense, but it is useful to secure the 4th bolt through the bulkhead support before trying to install the throttle body on the three remaining bolts. The total job took about 3 hours. I could probably cut this in half the next time. Peace has now returned to the household. I have not heard any more complaints about intermittent stalling. When started in the morning engine idle speed is now around 1400 rpm, returning to about 900 after a short warmup period. |
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Replying to: bwia (Mar 27, 2008 3:40 am) I just saw your post as I was searchong for what someone recommended for aftermarket rotors that were superior to OEM. I just bought an aftermarket rear bearing/hub assembly for our 03 AV. $85 with a 2 year warranty. $300+ at the dealer? Taiwan, but who cares? Labor, about 1 hour  $48/hr. OK, I took it to a local junk yard. Mechanic builds and races stock cars and seems top rate. New rotors would be $20-30. Pads are almost gone. $20 for OEM. $40 for ceramic. I just talked to NAPA and they quoted me $45 per rotor. They didn't have drilled. Then I spoke to my mechanic at the junk yard. He quoted me $22 for grooved rotors. Quess what? He got em from NAPA. He must have not marked them up from his cost. Now that's treating the customer right. So, we are doing a rear hub and bearing assembly, turning the rear rotors, new grooved front rotors, and new ceramic pads all around. Not sure what the total will be. "Now only if I could stop them from pressuring me into doing a 60K mile service." I never take my cars to a dealer, so no pressure. I don't do dealer checks. But then. I have a pit in my garage and an ear tuned to abnormalities. Not for everyone, and probably only a few.
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