Last post on Apr 21, 2013 at 6:02 AM
You are in the Toyota Avalon
What is this discussion about?
Toyota Avalon, Interior, Sedan
Oct 04, 2007 (4:14 pm)
On my 2002 AVALON - I opted to have my timing belt changed by a shop rather than do it myself. Had new cam shaft seals installed, and new water pump. Cost about $580. This engine is non-inteference type. While book says change at 90k, the shop I used said he has rarely seen one break before 150k. For piece of mind - I had mine changed at 118k. I inspected old belt - no sign of wear, TOYOTA label on back of belt still readible even after running over idler all these miles. Belt may have been a little more brittle, but no cracks were evident. AMAZING!!!!
Also I changed my spark plugs at 124 k miles - book says 120k. They were as clean as a whistle and probably would have worked for a lot longer. However I was glad I did it as two were a little testy getting loose. Wouldn't you know - they were in the back and leaverage was the problem.
#3444 of 3628 Cruise Control Push Button Replacement
Nov 06, 2007 (1:50 pm)
Two of the cruise control buttons on my 2000 Avalon are going bad. They actually still work but the tactile detents are weak to nonexistent. I want to replace the whole assembly.
Does anyone know how to do this? There is a cover plate on the reverse side of the buttons but prying with a screw driver did not release it. Iím afraid to pry too hard. It might break.
#3445 of 3628 KYB GR-2 strut mounts
Nov 10, 2007 (9:07 pm)
Getting ready to place order for KYB struts, but had a question regarding the mounts. Seems you can just buy the strut bearing or the complete strut mount? Which one should I buy?
BTW, my 2000 avalon is on the org. struts w/ approx 136000 (purchase car w/85000 on it) - I'm ready to drive instead of navigating the car down the road
any other tips before I purchase struts would be must appreciated.
ps. also plan to replace the front/rear bushings (rubber vice poly - wifes car)
#3446 of 3628 REAR WHEEL BEARING
Nov 21, 2007 (9:26 pm)
Has anyone replaced one of these? I have a growl, and I think it's the left rear bearing. Turn to the right to put more weight on it and it worsens. To the left, it lessens. MY QUESTION: Is it an easy do-it-yourself change, or is it a pressed assembly replacement that is more involved? Anyone have a service manual? I have an 03 Avalon.
#3447 of 3628 STRUT & SWAY BAR BUSHING FOLLOW UP
Nov 21, 2007 (10:10 pm)
I have replaced my struts and bushings at about 50k miles on my wifes 03 Avalon. Not that I needed to, but I wanted a firmer more controlled ride, and I like to experiment to see what I can accomplish. My take offs are available for sale at a reasonable price if anyone needs them. Search on 55396 for earlier posts. I still haven't installed the rear bushings yet as I seem to have an odd sized rear sway bar - 17mm, and I had to buy 16mm bushings that need to be honed out. Measure yours before ordering.
Today I took my wifes car. It has been awhile since installing struts and bushings. I went down a hill where the road narrowed to cross an old small bridge, then up the hill again. The car hardly flinched, much as a BMW would take it. Very controlled. And, as I was coming across a 4 lane street where the slabs of concrete had shifted due to truck traffic, it was also well controlled. But, I noticed the headlights on the car a ways behind me were really affected, bobbing loosely up and down. I would have guessed it was a large Buick, so I slowed up to see. Unfortunately, it turned off, but I could see that it was a mid sized car. Now, we drive in a more sporting manner at times, but most of the tome it's just normal driving and trips to Arizona fully loaded, where the control is really appreciated. After break in, I would say that this set up is just about ideal.. You can corner as hard as you like, and it stays flat and controlled. I love it, and my wife feels it is ideal too.
#3448 of 3628 Re: Sway Bar Bushings [abfisch]
Nov 22, 2007 (11:39 am)
"Would be interested to here how the 79 Olds comes out."
Well, I replaced the shocks at about the same time as the bushongs. Way back when they first downsized the Monte Carlo, I test drove one and didn't like what they did with the suspension. Same for the Olds. It just doesn't seem right. Anyway, the shocks were shot, so I replaced them with cheap $9.99 HD gas shocks. Small shaft, but they seem to work OK. Maybe not so good on extended hard use, and maybe won't last too long, but I won't drive it much, so they serve the purpose. Front sway bushings and shocks firmed it right up, but I still notice the character of the design, which is to be expected. Now, she just had cheap tires on standard wheels, which may be part of the problem. Also, this car has no rear sway bar, so I will be looking for 442 bars for front and rear. I expect this to make the big difference. Time will tell.
#3449 of 3628 Re: REAR WHEEL BEARING 
Nov 26, 2007 (3:38 pm)
Mine went at 53K, and I had it fixed at the dealer. I don't believe there is any special feature of these bearings, but dealer price is an amazing $300 + labor. The same bearing is available for about $100 in the aftermarket - still expensive, but much cheaper than at the dealer.
#3450 of 3628 Re: REAR WHEEL BEARING [mcclearyfl]
Nov 26, 2007 (8:16 pm)
"dealer price is an amazing $300 + labor"
Retail of course. I just found the bearing assembly online for $138. A friend takes his cars to a local salvage yard where the mechanic is a stock car racer. Shop rate labor is much less. We also use a local family shop that specializes in Audi's. They are also lower than dealers.
#3451 of 3628 Re: REAR WHEEL BEARING 
Dec 01, 2007 (1:19 pm)
I just did a Froogle search on this. You can get the bearing alone for about $38. The bearing pressed into and including the housing for $70, and the complete assembly was listed for $79 + $12 shipping. Others ran up into the hundreds. It pays to shop.
#3452 of 3628 Re: REAR WHEEL BEARING 
Dec 01, 2007 (1:40 pm)
Follow up. I drove the car out to the junk yard mechanic. We took it for a drive and agreed that it was probably the left rear. It isn't very loud, but there nevertheless. He would replace it for $48 labor. Would sell me a used assembly for $45 installed and guarantee it, but said he wouldn't spend the money yet as he has heard them many many times worse. He knew we would out on 5-6000 miles going to Arizona. I asked if he had ever heard of one locking up and he said no. I guess we'll gamble as he said it's difficult to tell which it is at this point, and we could do the wrong one. He would also install any part that I brought to him with no additional mark up, which I offered to give him, forgoing the profit from selling the part.
I also had my wheels and tires switched over for winter at Sams Club. No charge. I noticed some outside wear on one when I threw it in the car and asked their opinion. They called me into the shop and showed me tread wear. "No, overall tread wear is acceptable. I would get one more trip out of them. Should have another 10k in them". In both cases, they could have made a sale or money, yet did what was best for me, the customer. The first time I met either of them. Now, I will say that a good salesman or service guy can read a customer. Go there without a clue about things and your answers may be quite different.