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Dodge Intrepid

3413 messages, Last post on Dec 08, 2009 at 4:14 PM
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My 1999 2.7L Dodge Intrepid engine died last year, It developed a serious knocking, so on good advise I purchased a 2002 Dodge Intrepid 2.7L engine and took it to the mechanic to install. The mechanic called me a few days later to say he had installed it and i can have it back in a day or two. When i got there he said that the car apparently developed a electrical problem because it started once and would not start again. He said that he needed a ECU for the 2002 intrepid because the car was 2002. I purchased the 2002 Engine Ecu, when that didn't work he said I needed a new 1999 engine ECU because the 2002 did not work. I purchased that also then he said that he needed a crank sensor which should fix the problem but that failed too. So far he has had my car for over one year. I wanted to take the care to someone else but he refused to release the car saying that when he contacted the manufacturer they told him that the 2002 could not work in the 1999 and that it was my fault because i brought him the engine and i could not get the car back until i pay the 1200.00 price for the install. I am taking this matter to court but just for clarification can someone please tell me if what he is saying is true? Can a 2002 2.7L engine work in a 1999 intrepid that had a 2.7L engine? Please let me know Thanks...I am desperate Desperate.!!!
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| Makes me think that paying $100+ for a service manual before something goes wrong is a smart thing to do. | |
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Well,I got my inherited 2000 2.7 w/25k miles running and cleaned up and it runs fantastic, turning 25/32 mpg. Interior looks like new,engine purrs,brakes/tires like new-no leaks anywhere--even a/c works.Passed state inspection. Body is a mess --last owner was an older gent that sideswiped parked cars and pushed in both passenger doors--nothing structural--but it looks crappy. What should I do--sell it-or fix/keep it. The stories of the 2.7 failing have me spooked. But with a little body work the car is virtually new with many years of life left. If I sell as is--will I get much--or should I repair doors and sell??? |
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Replying to: 911man2 (Nov 01, 2007 3:25 pm) If it's any consolation, every mechanic I've talked to has told me that to get the 2.7 to sludge up, basically you have to go something like 10,000 miles between oil changes, let it run low, let it overheat, stuff like that. Basically, neglect the car. With only 25,000 miles on it, I'd imagine that it should run a good long time as long as you keep the oil changes to around 3-5,000 miles. Do you know when the coolant was last changed? It should have the orangish-pink long life coolant in it, which is supposed to be good for 5 years/100,000 miles. If you don't know when it was last changed, you might want to do so, just to be safe. Also, you might want to get the transmission fluid changed, if it hasn't been done yet. The owner's manual calls for changes every 50,000 miles under the "severe" schedule, and 100,000 miles under "normal". But just to be safe, I always had mine done every 30,000 miles. My '00 2.7 is currently at around 137,000 miles, and still running fine. I did have to have some freon put in this past week though, and some suspension work done. Unfortunately, the Intrepid doesn't have very good resale value, so you probably won't get much for it. And depending on how bad the damage is, you might not get your money's worth fixing it up.
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Replying to: 911man2 (Nov 01, 2007 3:25 pm) The way I look at it that car is worth whatever it saves you on another car payment. People say the car is not worth putting money into. As long as you enjoy the car, its paid for, and its reliable its fine to invest in repairs. Look at the alternative I have a 2006 Uplander. I bought it used for $18,000 its costing me $4,000 a year for 5 years. When all is done I will have $23,000 into this car and it will be worth about $4,000. Using that model spending $2,500 on the Dodge is not such a bad deal, as long as the Dodge is reliable. Just my thoughts................
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Replying to: fradelva (Oct 20, 2007 2:57 pm) PS the whole thing ran $1,800 |
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Replying to: andre1969 (Nov 02, 2007 9:05 am) A few mechanics have told me to use 1 qt of transmission fliud in place of 1 qt oil to clean the engine slowly...when time comes for a change, then use 10W-30 full synthetic oil and it will kill any sludge. Interesting. |
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Replying to: 911man2 (Nov 03, 2007 6:51 am) One other thing I just thought of with regards to oil. Sometimes these cars can trigger a false reading on the low oil pressure light. Happened with my '00 back in late 2003, around the 85-90K mark. Supposedly, the sensor that triggers the warning light can get hot and make the light come on, mainly in situations such as sitting at a traffic light, idling, where there's no airflow. There is a TSB that covers it, but I dunno how far back a dealer will honor a TSB.
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I have a '99 2.7l. Replaced the relay switch to get the fan selection switch working. Then,one nite the car wouldnt start but the panic alarm and the wipers keep going. Finally the car started and everything eventually stopped. However, that same day, the headlights didnt work. Took to shop, read code and then fixed the headlights. Now, the tempurature control panel (heat/ac) doesnt work (blows cold air, vent selector doesnt move, rear defroster/ac wont turn on. the only thing working is the fan selector.) Dealer thought that the a/c control head switch was bad. Replaced that but it blew again. thought there was a short somewhere. Now its the BCM ($600 repair). Found a used one and everything worked for about 4 starts. Now the airbag light is on, windows, turn signals, and temp control panel dont work (only the vent switch). Any other ideas before i go back to the shop? Thanks
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Replying to: roger924 (Nov 02, 2007 6:27 pm) That is good reasoning (and one I have subscribed to) until you've recently put $5000 into repairs, somebody hits you and the insurance company totals it and sends you a check for $400. Ouch! |
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